No, I do it all the time with a fan.after vacuuming
if i wipe the table down with a damp cloth
and then take a hair dryer to dry it out
rather than wait the hours necessary to dry out on its own
will that damage my simonis cloth?
if you need a fan you got it too wet. 'slightly' damp microfiber cloth is all you need.after vacuuming
if i wipe the table down with a damp cloth
and then take a hair dryer to dry it out
rather than wait the hours necessary to dry out on its own
will that damage my simonis cloth?
thanks garczar ....if you need a fan you got it too wet. 'slightly' damp microfiber cloth is all you need.
Getting the cloth wet allows the weave of the cloth to stretch more than normal, which means it loses its elastic memory to stay tight, so whats going to happen is the cloth is going to loosen up, and start playing slower.after vacuuming
if i wipe the table down with a damp cloth
and then take a hair dryer to dry it out
rather than wait the hours necessary to dry out on its own
will that damage my simonis cloth?
And use HOT water, it drys faster!Just vacuum it. No need for a wet rag but if you must (as pointed out already) use and EXTREMELY wrung out microfiber rag. If it is taking hours to dry it is waaaaay too wet.
Most pool rooms i've been in you're lucky if they vac once a week.Its my experience that vacuuming only doesn't take up 100% of the chalk. The only way to come close is to vacuum about every hour of play.
I'm normally too lazy to vacuum that often unless I'm getting ready for a tournament. In a 3C tournament the table is vacuumed after every game or every hour to 90 mins.
The Cobra suggest warm water and I agree even though my table is heated. I wring out as much water as I can possibly get out of the rag before wiping. It's a light wipe. Not a scrubbing action. Slightly more pressure than simply dragging the rag over the bed cloth.
My results have been different. I vacuum every 4th or 5th use of my table. Zero chalk dust on the slate when changing the cloth.Its my experience that vacuuming only doesn't take up 100% of the chalk. The only way to come close is to vacuum about every hour of play.
I'm normally too lazy to vacuum that often unless I'm getting ready for a tournament. In a 3C tournament the table is vacuumed after every game or every hour to 90 mins.
The Cobra suggest warm water and I agree even though my table is heated. I wring out as much water as I can possibly get out of the rag before wiping. It's a light wipe. Not a scrubbing action. Slightly more pressure than simply dragging the rag over the bed cloth.
But that won't remove the hand oil build up on the surface of the cloth, which is why I've always stressed HOT water and Woolit, rag tightly rung out, single layered, clean the surface of the cloth.My results have been different. I vacuum every 4th or 5th use of my table. Zero chalk dust on the slate when changing the cloth.
That doesn't surprise me, but I'm more interested in maintaining consistent angles of the CB. Chalk changes the angles. The table shorter shorter.My results have been different. I vacuum every 4th or 5th use of my table. Zero chalk dust on the slate when changing the cloth.
I wonder if that principle applies (in much more of a minor way) to high humidity? Would the higher wool content of 860/860HR make it more likely to loosen up with time (as opposed to 760, which seems to better maintain it’s stretch)? While green 760 will speed up after it get well worn (and blueish with chalk stain), 860 seems to stay slow (?). Maybe the loss of tension is balancing out the polishing effect of wear/play?Getting the cloth wet allows the weave of the cloth to stretch more than normal, which means it loses its elastic memory to stay tight, so whats going to happen is the cloth is going to loosen up, and start playing slower.
860HR has the same 70/30 wool/nylon blend, therefore are more humidity resistant IF the cloth was installed tightly, and correct. But yes, humidity will loosen the bed and rail cloth up noticeably if they're not installed correctly.I wonder if that principle applies (in much more of a minor way) to high humidity? Would the higher wool content of 860/860HR make it more likely to loosen up with time (as opposed to 760, which seems to better maintain it’s stretch)? While green 760 will speed up after it get well worn (and blueish with chalk stain), 860 seems to stay slow (?). Maybe the loss of tension is balancing out the polishing effect of wear/play?
Exactly.if you need a fan you got it too wet. 'slightly' damp microfiber cloth is all you need.
The surface of the cloth is the only thing you're cleaning with a HOT rag, wrung out at tight at you can, that way all you're basically doing is dry cleaning the hand oils off of it. Evaporation shouldn't take but a minute or two.Exactly.
Why so wet?
Should dry on it's own in an hour or less with the light on over it.