Wood 2 wood - A joint

Newton

Newton

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I´m building a ebony cue for a good friend and it has a cored forarm (purpleheart) with tenons of PH in each end.
I want to make this as "pure" as possible and the idea is to thread the PH tenon and join the handle this way (with rings in between).

Now, I'm not sure if this would cause any problems with buzz if I use epoxy?
Should I make the parts so tight that when joined together there would be hardly any air gap behind the tenon and the handle? Or should I allow a little air for the epoxy to fill?

I have never done this before so I'm relying on my friends up here on this one... I have only one chance on this and would not like to experiment to much, specially when I have been babysitting this Gabone for a looong time.

The cue would have floating points which would be made after assembly and tapering (the parts is still "fat" and would be tapered after glued up).

Thanks guys.

K
 
You should NOT be doing this with expensive wood your first go around. You should practice on firewood, or that is what your ebony will become. Mind you, I've only done a dozen or so cues with A joints, but nobody else is answering, so I guess you're stuck with me.
I built my A joint using a 3" tenon with 1" of threads at the tip. I didn't use an interference fit, but it had so little slop that it barely wobbled when the threads finally met. I filled the hole with epoxy and slowly assembled the cue to allow the epoxy to escape at a leisurely pace. You MUST have channels for the glue to follow on the way out of the hole or you'll never get it assembled.
 
Kent, don't you know epoxy is stronger than wood.
No need for threads. Just pressfit it . :grin:
Since you're a good guy, I'll just pm my advice .
 
JoeyInCali said:
Kent, don't you know epoxy is stronger than wood.
No need for threads. Just pressfit it . :grin:
Since you're a good guy, I'll just pm my advice .
Click to expand...


Ya..................lol


Anyways I tried to find a pic that eric crisp posted a while back of his A joint but couldn't find it, I think it may be a good example to look at for what u want.

Maybe someone not working a cell can try to find it.
 
Lexicologist71 said:
You should NOT be doing this with expensive wood your first go around. You should practice on firewood, or that is what your ebony will become. Mind you, I've only done a dozen or so cues with A joints, but nobody else is answering, so I guess you're stuck with me.
I built my A joint using a 3" tenon with 1" of threads at the tip. I didn't use an interference fit, but it had so little slop that it barely wobbled when the threads finally met. I filled the hole with epoxy and slowly assembled the cue to allow the epoxy to escape at a leisurely pace. You MUST have channels for the glue to follow on the way out of the hole or you'll never get it assembled.
Click to expand...

Paul,
Thanks for the feedback. I have been thinking on this way of doing it for a while, in my eyes it must be the purest construction I can come up with.
The thing I was not sure off was if the fit supposed to be so tight that the tenon almost bottom out in the cavity so the glue bond would be with similar tolerances as the side walls. Having a cavity with a epoxy reservoir sounds risky...
I have made a new tenon on a crapy Philippino cue this way where I made it all so tight I could and tenon bottomed out using thick 30min epoxy
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=243931&page=2
Seems to hold up.

Thanks
K
 
JoeyInCali said:
Kent, don't you know epoxy is stronger than wood.
No need for threads. Just pressfit it . :grin:
Since you're a good guy, I'll just pm my advice .
Click to expand...

Thanks a bunch buddy for your PM and replies on emails :smile: I did a re-jig of my
lathe last night changing cogwheels to support some different threads trying
to get as close as I can to your pitch (I'm naturally metric...)

Read also up on the thread height part last night so now that's sorted as well.
Would do a test later today on some scrap wood to see if the pitch work out
better than what I used...
As you saw in my pic - the tenon OD is not hugh so those fat threads might not be that good.

I'll send you a email later with some pics.

K
 
Trying to get your tenon to bottom out in the hole at precisely the same time they meet at the base of the tenon is a waste of time. It should be close, but if you try to get it exact and fail, your tenon may bottom while you can still see light between them when installed. Much more important is to get the shoulders butted together tightly. Using thinner viscosity epoxy that cures overnight will allow you to get everything together and trust it to stay in place.
 
Lexicologist71 said:
Trying to get your tenon to bottom out in the hole at precisely the same time they meet at the base of the tenon is a waste of time. It should be close, but if you try to get it exact and fail, your tenon may bottom while you can still see light between them when installed. Much more important is to get the shoulders butted together tightly. Using thinner viscosity epoxy that cures overnight will allow you to get everything together and trust it to stay in place.
Click to expand...


Paul,
Thanks for the advise. I would dry fit it and make sure that I don't get any gaps in the joint. Still sorting out my West Systems order so not fully there :-)

K
 
Newton said:
Paul,
Thanks for the feedback. I have been thinking on this way of doing it for a while, in my eyes it must be the purest construction I can come up with.
The thing I was not sure off was if the fit supposed to be so tight that the tenon almost bottom out in the cavity so the glue bond would be with similar tolerances as the side walls. Having a cavity with a epoxy reservoir sounds risky...
I have made a new tenon on a crapy Philippino cue this way where I made it all so tight I could and tenon bottomed out using thick 30min epoxy
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=243931&page=2
Seems to hold up.

Thanks
K
Click to expand...

I would seem to me that a one piece, full length core would be much simpler and accomplish the same goal.........

but that's just me


Kim
 
Kim and Bob-I have done some thoughts on that as well and I would for sure make one, however with my own twist to it ;-)
Though on this project I have cored the forarm twise and a 3rd time is not going to happen.... I think..:-)
 
Newton said:
Kim and Bob-I have done some thoughts on that as well and I would for sure make one, however with my own twist to it ;-)
Though on this project I have cored the forarm twise and a 3rd time is not going to happen.... I think..:-)
Click to expand...

Or you can use a two-piece core. :wink:
 
whammo57 said:
I would seem to me that a one piece, full length core would be much simpler and accomplish the same goal.........

but that's just me


Kim
Click to expand...

Yep, same here. Unfortunately, my cue lathe is lying dormant in hopes of coming out of retirement to finish the roughly 20 cues I have built. I learned the wonderful path of full coring late. I have 3. Wow, those built up smoothly.
 
Last edited:
Hmm, should I core for the third and final time.... My buddy has decided for a softer hitt, which a Gabone + PH core would not give...
 
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