wood joints pin - carom billiards vs pool?

I was recently in blatts billiards supply co in nyc, and i inquired about some carom cues that had wood joint pins. the man behind the counter who stated he only played carom basically said carom cues generally have wood joints, are superior instruments, and that pool players were basically ignorant fools. he had a ton of metal jointed cues in stock as well, which im sure he would have loved to have sold me. he then showed me the pool encyclopedia which he had written. which was a pretty impressive looking book.

just wondering what others opinions are on the difference between carom and pool equipment, why is a different cue needed? what is the benefit of the wooden joint in carom, and why wouldnt that be a benefit in pool?? or the other way around with a metal joint.

3c billiard cueists ARE more informed than "pool players". To begin with, they are required to understand the cueball at a level that pool players can't even begin to comprehend, and thus they play with an instrument that achieves their goals the best. To that point, the Blatt guy is correct as I find most pool players don't give a f**k what kind or whether a cue is truly right for him, however the Blatt guy implies that the billiard cue is the cue for everyone, and to that point he is dead wrong. No one instrument is the correct instrument for all types of player personalities.
 
No one instrument is the correct instrument for all types of player personalities.

I think that's a subject that is neglected a lot. One of the things that I would like to see more of is information from the cue makers and the instructors on the finer points of selecting a cue based on the player's stature, playing style, and the specific game.

We often see people say they use a certain cue for a certain game, say nine ball, and another cue for another game, like eight ball. But they don't say how those cues differ and what qualities a cue should have for each game and why.

I have my own ideas about these things, but I think in general the matter is neglected.

People go to golf pro shops to get measured for clubs...custom grips etc and other factors that are specific to the player. Generally speaking when people order a cue they order according to what they like but I don't see a lot of input going on about it.

I once saw a chart regarding cue selection based on stature but I don't remember where.

Personally, I think a lot of people are probably playing with the wrong cue (dimensions and weight), even when they swear it's the right cue.
 
I think that's a subject that is neglected a lot. One of the things that I would like to see more of is information from the cue makers and the instructors on the finer points of selecting a cue based on the player's stature, playing style, and the specific game.

We often see people say they use a certain cue for a certain game, say nine ball, and another cue for another game, like eight ball. But they don't say how those cues differ and what qualities a cue should have for each game and why.

I have my own ideas about these things, but I think in general the matter is neglected.

People go to golf pro shops to get measured for clubs...custom grips etc and other factors that are specific to the player. Generally speaking when people order a cue they order according to what they like but I don't see a lot of input going on about it.

I once saw a chart regarding cue selection based on stature but I don't remember where.

Personally, I think a lot of people are probably playing with the wrong cue (dimensions and weight), even when they swear it's the right cue.

The problem is, information is held tight to the vest in pool, like some secret sauce to success, whereas it is voluntarily given in 3c.
 
hey john

fenton is close enough to warsaw for you to drive over and hit a few with different cues and pick out the one you like. and as far as your name, i have a 4 by 8 brunswick, new set of balls, and 860 cloth, and no one in the area likes 1p. hell, you might even win a cue.
my thoughts about the wood pin
it takes me about 4 hrs longer to build a cue with a wood pin, rather than using a $2.00 metal pin, so i'm not doing it to save money or because its some knid of shortcut. its a lot of extra work. when i decide its time to make a few i set everything else aside and start cutting 1/2 inch rock maple dowels, i buy them pre cut and snaded to an exact 1/2 for the entire 36 inches. i then thread about an 1 1/2 then cut that piece off, tghen continue until i have cut the 36 inch piece. after i cut 3-4 dowels i then treat each one and put it in a drying rack. only about 40% are good enough for pins, and stiill each has to be hand filed to fit the female threads in the shaft.
to me feel is the vibration that traveles down the shaft into the butt into your hand. if these vibrations go wood into wood into wood and the wood is fitted correctly. i think that has to be better than the viberations going wood, metal, wood
did not want to hijack - but try to explain wood pin
 
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