Workmanship

[Chopdoc]

Rest assured then engineers in the crowd understood and agreed with your perspective.

Dave <-- remembers well lectures about accuracy and precision, about 35 +- 2 years ago :thumbup:

Not just engineers. Scientists and doctors as well. And I give those lectures.

But I also teach my students to answer the question as asked. They don't get to change the question.

But of course, I am here to learn, not teach.

Anway, I really do appreciate everyone's input on this one. Obviously we can pick at semantics and get quantitative. That's just not what I was after. I was more interested in people's feelings on the matter. The numbers are easier.

Of course, anybody can comment as they like.

I always especially appreciate the cuemakers. We are lucky to have you guys here.

.

 

[conetip]

Workmanship covers the way a cue is made and it's combined components. It also covers badly made parts that may not be even made by the cue maker. An example is bent or not straight joint pins. If the maker uses a bent pin in the construction of the cue, that alone is bad workmanship.
Some cues are made to have different shafts added to them, some are not. Just because it has to go back to a the maker to get an after market shaft added is not a sign of bad workmanship at all.
Then finally is the question , Is if fit for purpose? , Some are definitely not.
Neil

 

[EddieBme]

Great question Doc. I don't condemn someone for off center pins. It comes down to
1- How the cue was held while prepping for the pin. Even today I see it off center because people assume it's running true instead of using an indicator.
2- Sanding and mandrells can vary the end result. Not all mandrells are perfect and a lot of people make their own mandrells out of stainless instead of carbide. The reason of course is pricing.
3- Some makers use a pole sander with the mandrell attached. Even carbide, will eventually wear.
4- Stainless joints. How are they machined? Between centers? With the screw installed? It matters. Is the joint stable or is it being pushed away by the cutter?
I'm sure there's more variables.

I have a cue that has a lot of slop when screwing the shaft onto the butt of the cue. It does screw on tight, and flush with the butt of the cue. What do you think the reason is for that, and what would it take to correct it?

 

[Michael Webb]

I have a cue that has a lot of slop when screwing the shaft onto the butt of the cue. It does screw on tight, and flush with the butt of the cue. What do you think the reason is for that, and what would it take to correct it?

Hi Ed
What kind of joint screw does it have?

 

[EddieBme]

Hi Ed
What kind of joint screw does it have?

From the best I can tell, it's a 3/8" 10 pin. But the 10 TPI gauge doesn't fit exactly, it does have a little bit of slop, but a 11 gauge is to small. Also it's not like the pin that McDermott uses.

 

[Michael Webb]

From the best I can tell, it's a 3/8" 10 pin. But the 10 TPI gauge doesn't fit exactly, it does have a little bit of slop, but a 11 gauge is to small. Also it's not like the pin that McDermott uses.

Thank you. Interesting but not uncommon. My answer would be, improper hole size and possibly the wrong size tap also.

 

[PoppaSaun]

I have a cue that has a lot of slop when screwing the shaft onto the butt of the cue. It does screw on tight, and flush with the butt of the cue. What do you think the reason is for that, and what would it take to correct it?

Define 'a lot of slop'.

Most cuemakers use an inappropriately tight thread clearance. If you are used to cues that take effort to screw together, you may just be seeing a proper thread fit.

 

[EddieBme]

Define 'a lot of slop'.

Most cuemakers use an inappropriately tight thread clearance. If you are used to cues that take effort to screw together, you may just be seeing a proper thread fit.

It still moves around a couple of inches, (from joint to tip, within 1/8"-3/16") just before tightening at the joint face.

 

[EddieBme]

It still moves around a couple of inches, (from joint to tip, within 1/8"-3/16") just before tightening at the joint face.

Could something like a nylon insert be feasible?

 

[Michael Webb]

Could something like a nylon insert be feasible?

Yes Sir.
Or phenolic. But you need to know the correct dimensions of the joint screw or it's wasted money.

 

[EddieBme]

It still moves around a couple of inches, (from joint to tip, within 1/8"-3/16") just before tightening at the joint face.

Yes Sir.
Or phenolic. But you need to know the correct dimensions of the joint screw or it's wasted money.

Thanks Mike. I appreciate your input.