Workpiece clamping

Slasher

KE = 0.5 • m • v2
Silver Member
What are some of the methods you fellows use for clamping shafts and butts in different positions on the lathe, thanks.
 
dave sutton said:
i always seem ot loose my shaft collet so i just use masking tape sometimes...

makes me crazy

Using masking tape instead of Delrin
Collets is not a very accurate method
because masking tape compresses at
a different rate with each jaw of the
chuck. Delrin Collets are the same
hardness all the way around the shaft
and the jaws of the chuck compress
equally around the shaft.

Good Cuemaking,
 
Depending on the chuck you are using masking tape will allow the jaws to compress the wood and leave marks. IMO collets are the only way to go. If the collets you are using anr not tight cut a slit in the side and it will allow to open and close a small amount.
 
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Arnot Wadsworth said:
Using masking tape instead of Delrin
Collets is not a very accurate method
because masking tape compresses at
a different rate with each jaw of the
chuck. Delrin Collets are the same
hardness all the way around the shaft
and the jaws of the chuck compress
equally around the shaft.

Good Cuemaking,

depends on that im doing.

if im just replacing a tip and for some stupid reason i cant find my shaft collet i just use masking tape

doesnt leave marks and doesnt run out

however i did have one shaft collet that was leaving marks

had to mak another one
 
dave sutton said:
depends on that im doing.

if im just replacing a tip and for some stupid reason i cant find my shaft collet i just use masking tape

doesnt leave marks and doesnt run out

however i did have one shaft collet that was leaving marks

had to mak another one


Collects are the only way to go if your looking for accuracy. Sooner or later you'll mar a shaft using masking tape.

From one 4' piece of Delrin I made a set of 30 from .400" to .550", .750" long with an OD of 1.200". Used the rest to make a few with a taper for billiard cues and some for joint work , $40 and an hour of time and you're set, couldn't be easier.

Paul
 
MINDSEYE153 said:
Collects are the only way to go if your looking for accuracy. Sooner or later you'll mar a shaft using masking tape.

From one 4' piece of Delrin I made a set of 30 from .400" to .550", .750" long with an OD of 1.200". Used the rest to make a few with a taper for billiard cues and some for joint work , $40 and an hour of time and you're set, couldn't be easier.

Paul
:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

i only said i use it when i loose shaft collet
 
dave sutton said:
depends on that im doing.

if im just replacing a tip and for some stupid reason i cant find my shaft collet i just use masking tape

doesnt leave marks and doesnt run out

however i did have one shaft collet that was leaving marks

had to mak another one

If your collet is leaving a dent mark on the shaft, you can use one that has a little larger hole & slip a small piece of playing card around the shaft & between the collet & shaft. Then you can tighten down snug without a mark. I have 8 different sizes for tip work & 11 for joint work...JER
 
Masking tape works good on the unique lathes with their type of chuck, Now with a Hightower or metal lathe with the 3 or four jaw or 6 jaw chucks I would never use tape. I use collets when installing tips but for joint rings or butt caps Masking tape has worked good for me, You must make sure it is the same thickness all the way around the cue though or it will run out.
 
A few months ago I started making collets starting at ID .450 with the intent of going to 1.500 by .010 increments. I never made it all the way because them seemed to flaw my work more. I did make all of the common size though. Could my wall be to thick for them??
 

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bubsbug said:
A few months ago I started making collets starting at ID .450 with the intent of going to 1.500 by .010 increments. I never made it all the way because them seemed to flaw my work more. I did make all of the common size though. Could my wall be to thick for them??
Too thick and probably no taper inside.
http://www.poolndarts.com/p-3569-Shaft-Collet/
A lip is preferred too.
p-3569-Shaft-Collet
 
bubsbug said:
A few months ago I started making collets starting at ID .450 with the intent of going to 1.500 by .010 increments. I never made it all the way because them seemed to flaw my work more. I did make all of the common size though. Could my wall be to thick for them??
Were those made of wood? If so were they sealed. If you make them out of delrin, or cheap abs<==== not good stuff for collets..... and make them a max of 0.080 wall thickness with a slit down the side they will work great. Make shafts at least every .5 mil every .1 if you are anal.
 
RocketQ said:
Were those made of wood? If so were they sealed. If you make them out of delrin, or cheap abs<==== not good stuff for collets..... and make them a max of 0.080 wall thickness with a slit down the side they will work great. Make shafts at least every .5 mil every .1 if you are anal.


Yep! Delrin! They do have a taper of 2 degrees on the I.D. What do you suggest? Teflon?? The problem I had is that the cue would move. When I wood turn to cut a ferrule tennon the wood would move over quite a bit giveing me an uneven tennon as I cut. Without a collet I wouldnt get any movement so I started taping.
 
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Slasher said:
What are some of the methods you fellows use for clamping shafts and butts in different positions on the lathe, thanks.
sometimes my lathe is nothing more than a 1200 pound c-clamp :rolleyes:
 
Try a non tapered collet thin wall like I said and cut your tennon again. But cutting the slit it allows for the collet to taper. Odd man Never had that problem.
 
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