wrap press question
- Thread starter gluton1
- Start date
gluton1 said:
I personally like the Linen press made by Porper with the wheels, but some cue makers make their own Linen press. They take two pieces of wood and cut a half Moon in each piece that lines up, then hinge one side of the two pieces so that the two pieces can open and close. Make certain that cut out rounded sections are smooth and splitter free. It is best to use a hardwood that will not bleed any color from the wood when heated, Oak is a good choice.
These linen presses work very very well, for both polishing and pressing of wraps. Many of the Old school cue makers still use them, and most likely will never change.
Take care.
I use & prefer one like Manwon described. Takes 20 minutes & $5 of material and you are good to go.:wink:
Since 1982 I've used 2 pieces of shaft wood. It still works well & I see no reason to spend hundreds of dollars for something that is not needed. PM me for further info...JER
Please excuse the mess and crappy pictures, but here's what I use. It's just 2 pieces of oak trim with a bolt, a couple of washers, and a metal sleeve to space the 2 pieces. I didn't bother cutting a round notch out of them as they work fine for Me the way they are. They can get gunked up with dye, so I'll clean and sand them off every once in a while, but they get the job done. The 3rd picture is of a wrap I recently pressed with them. It's hard to see just how shiny and smooth It is, but they do a nice job. I'm thinking about make a pair with delrin rollers just to see how well they work, but that oak pair has got Me by for quite some time now. Best of all they were free, because the stuff I made them from I just had laying around the shop.
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gluton1 said:
I use two Delrin blocks 3/8 by 2 x about 10 inches. I like the Delrin because I press the wrap while it is wet with a thinned white glue and it is easy to clean up. I have been using the same two pieces for like 15 years. Not to high-tech, but is quick and easy. They are not attached, I just have a knack for holding them. What I like is I can move the piece on top a little ahead of the one on the bottom as I get to the end of the wrap. That way I can see what I am doing an never come in contact with the wood. Before I learned this technique I more then once marked the wood trying to get right to the edge. I also after it is done do some hand pressing on a bench right at the edge of the wrap where it meets the wood with a small block and a small tack hammer. I roll the cue on the padded surface gently tapping the wrap at the edge as I roll it till the wrap and the wood are perfectly blended.
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I have used two oak 1x2 boards with a screw and spacer through one end for over 20 years. I also have the roller types. I usually use the rollers to press it flat real fast and then switch to the boards to finish pressing and polishing it. The rollers are really not needed but it does speed you up a few minutes.
dave sutton
Banned
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
jerry gave me this idea and it does work great. i built my own and i like the shaftwood method better. all pref i guess. some sand wraps some dont. personally i do.
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dave sutton said:
I don't sand my wraps. I put a piece of electrical tap on the painted portion ,at each end, where the wrap groove starts. That protects the clearcoat from being damaged. Then I spray the wrap with starch & press. Then I take a razor blade & while the lathe is turning, I hold the blade with both hands & remove any high spots. Then one more pressing & seal it with shaft sealer...JER