WTB LD shaft for JD cue

TheThaiger

TheThaiger

Banned
This is a VERY tentative inquiry at this stage, but I like to know what options there are for a LD shaft for a JD cue.

I don't know what threads they are or even if their joints fit a standard LD shaft.
 
Joel mainly uses a 3/8-10 pin and his joints are usually a bit oversized from .850 to .890. You need to use a micrometer on your joint and see where it is at for a standard LD shaft to fit flush otherwise you will need to get a blank and have one built. Hope this helps. :smile:
 
I dont mean to hijack the thread but I am curious if it is possible to remove rings from an existing JD shaft and put on a ld blank? I still hit pretty well with it but I have gotten used to a tiger ultra and it is hard to go back.
 
RFranklin said:
I dont mean to hijack the thread but I am curious if it is possible to remove rings from an existing JD shaft and put on a ld blank? I still hit pretty well with it but I have gotten used to a tiger ultra and it is hard to go back.
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As far as I know,since Joels shaft diameter is bigger,if you take the ringwork off and go to put them on a standard size shaft it would be to big and look like poop.On a blank would be the only way to do it and make it look proper.
 
Fast Lenny said:
Joel mainly uses a 3/8-10 pin and his joints are usually a bit oversized from .850 to .890. You need to use a micrometer on your joint and see where it is at for a standard LD shaft to fit flush otherwise you will need to get a blank and have one built. Hope this helps. :smile:
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Yes, thanks. I think I tried putting my old McD i1 shaft onto it a while ago and it didn't fit - I seem to remember it getting stuck about 6 turns in, and I didn't want to push it any further, so I'm not really sure what pin size he uses as standard. This is a friend's cue, and we mucked about with adding 3/8/10 shafts to both this JD, and his Carmelli, and neither fitted any 3/8/10 shaft we had. I need to understand the intricacies of different joint sizes first, i think.
 
TheThaiger said:
I thought you were going to suggest I just stick a little WD40 onto the i1 and have it fit like a glove! ;)
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Aw Man,I still feel bad about that and would never suggest it again:smile:.I still can't understand why it works in the poolroom I go to cause they still use it. I'm beginning to think it might be the type of cloth they use.Back to the shaft issue,you could just add the collar to theshaft but there's such a ridge between the collar and wood it just looks real shotty.I'm not sure why all of Joels cues are so much bigger at the joint?I know he puts a sh-t
load of clearcoat on his cues that you can see right at the joint,probably so moisture doesn't set in and cause warpage but thats just a guess.
 
If you can find someone on here that has his contact info (Joel's), you may be able to send him a picture of your cue, and he may be able to send you some matching rings. I ordered 3 rings from him (don't have his contact info now), and then had a OB classic blank with one of the rings put on to match. I think they were $40 for the three extra rings.
 
scsuxci said:
Aw Man,I still feel bad about that and would never suggest it again:smile:.I still can't understand why it works in the poolroom I go to cause they still use it. I'm beginning to think it might be the type of cloth they use.Back to the shaft issue,you could just add the collar to theshaft but there's such a ridge between the collar and wood it just looks real shotty.I'm not sure why all of Joels cues are so much bigger at the joint?I know he puts a sh-t
load of clearcoat on his cues that you can see right at the joint,probably so moisture doesn't set in and cause warpage but thats just a guess.
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I think Joel makes the cues bigger at the joint because that is the usual place for a cue to warp and the thicker the better to prevent that, he also does other methods to help prevent warpage.
 
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