How do you play it if the 11 is frozen to the rail?
WWYD Eightball hill hill game vs Grandmaster
- Thread starter gregcantrall
- Start date
12 ball, gets you on the 9 ball in upper right corner, then 10 ball and 5 & 3 ball will stop cue ball for the 11 ball in upper left, and your on the 8 ball... That's the only out. Either that or just shoot a stripe out in the open and play a safe and let them try and get out a tough out... Definitely don't make a ball unless your pretty sure you're going to get out.
I am not looking at the pic, but there are even 2 of your opponent's balls next to to 14(10?!), to help out hold for shape on the 11 in the corner that is on the top left pocket in the pic.
And presuming you shoot the 11 as above, you are golden on the 8.
If you clear the low end of the table and get on that 10(14?!), worse one should be able to do to hizzelf is get straight on the 11. That is gonna make that 8 real hard.
Personally, I'd be trying like he'll to avoid having to cut a frozen 11 past the pocket-point at hill/hill.
I misunderstood the shot.
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First of all, I'd insist that the &%$@ table be leveled!..
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VERY first thing I thought.
Not sure what that has to do with the layout presented.
If the 11 is on the rail there and doesn't go in the side, explain how your desire/ preference changes anything?
He said pocket point.
I would billiard the 7 off the nine with left, and hope the 9 hits the 2 and moves to a place where I can make it in the side off the 11 when I get back to the table.
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I think many miss the point of being a Grand Master...I have played many shots in my life
that I was proud of, only to have my opponent run out. Tying balls up, and giving up the table
isn't always a good idea, especially when you are playing an advance player. On the flip side
I have also been that player that has said "great shot, now how do I get out" and do. Knowing
and doing are two different things, and I will choose to stay at the table as long as I can instead
of shooting a shot that I 'hope' will get me back to the table. The one place I would not like
to shoot the next shoot, and have a good chance of getting another one (if the 12 doesn't play)
would to thin the 10, and freeze the cue to the 1...which isn't for the faint of heart. But at least
you would take the high percentage combo out of play, and if hit well get another shot.
that I was proud of, only to have my opponent run out. Tying balls up, and giving up the table
isn't always a good idea, especially when you are playing an advance player. On the flip side
I have also been that player that has said "great shot, now how do I get out" and do. Knowing
and doing are two different things, and I will choose to stay at the table as long as I can instead
of shooting a shot that I 'hope' will get me back to the table. The one place I would not like
to shoot the next shoot, and have a good chance of getting another one (if the 12 doesn't play)
would to thin the 10, and freeze the cue to the 1...which isn't for the faint of heart. But at least
you would take the high percentage combo out of play, and if hit well get another shot.
I haven't read everyones comments on this rack, so here is what I would commence to do to this rack shooting stripes:
Nudge the 11 into the side and let the CB bop off the long rail there and play the 10 into the low left corner with draw enough to allow you a shot at the 12 for either an upper right corner or right side pocket shot. Move that diseased powder blue ball out of the way with some Boss Hogg cue ball action "scuuuuuze meeee" and fire the 9 into the upper right. 8 ball goes anywhere you like. Then I'd shoot the liver out of the table owner for using the TV ball set.
Lesh
Nudge the 11 into the side and let the CB bop off the long rail there and play the 10 into the low left corner with draw enough to allow you a shot at the 12 for either an upper right corner or right side pocket shot. Move that diseased powder blue ball out of the way with some Boss Hogg cue ball action "scuuuuuze meeee" and fire the 9 into the upper right. 8 ball goes anywhere you like. Then I'd shoot the liver out of the table owner for using the TV ball set.
Lesh
Does the 11 go in the side, Greg?
The 11 could be made in the side but........for me to shoot the 11 in the side I would have wanted to be within just a few inches of the shot. Even then the corner was a better choice. . Straight in on the 11 side gave the perfect angle to play 11 corner and come out for the 8.This is just a representation of the general lay of the balls. Not perfectly accurate. The lay of the interfering balls would be the least accurate as I was concerned with the fact that each ball did have a pocket and there were paths available. There was no shot on the 11 from my starting position.This is an 8 foot table wile the match took place on a 7 foot Diamond. I probably put the angle to the 12 a little flat to avoid exaggeration. I remember it was right at the limit of what I could do to play it to the corner and hold for the 9.
Once I had made the 12 I took a look at what I had on the 9 and the line I needed to be on for the 10, the narrowest window for shape. His 7 sat in a spot that if I hit it and stopped the cue ball dead I would be on the 10 but close to the end rail. Which meant I had to man up one more shot and hit the cue ball low to stun it.
This was the kind of out that I had watched the pro players making during the open event. Held 3 days prior. So watching the pro players did inspire me to reach for that brass ring and see if I could shoot like a pro, if only for 5 balls.
As Justin pointed out, "Definitely don't make a ball unless your pretty sure you're going to get out." I knew it was all or nothing. If I made even one more ball and did not get out I would be the huge underdog, given my opponents knowledge and skills. The adrenalin was pumping and I was aware that the slightest twitch would be the end of me. What fun!!!!!