Radial joint insall

Yeah the wood lathe isn't going to be ideal, but I wanted to get my feet wet a bit before I spend a lot more money on a better lathe. The rest I bought has two wheels on the bottom and one on the top, so the bottom two wheels adjust together and the top is separate.

I don't have an indicator, going to have to put that on the shopping list for sure.

I wish that I had gone with 3/8 - 10, but my playing shaft is radial, so I want to match that. (I could have someone redo the shaft joint, but I do like the radial from a playing standpoint. I appreciate the tip on the drill bits, I'll make sure they're good when I pick those up as well.

I'm a bit concerned about not being able to ream the hole more precisely, I was going to look for a bit holder type attachment similar to what you use on a metal lathe.
People have built cues on all kinds of lathes, so your problem solving skills and how determined you are can make up for some machinery shortcomings. I would look into getting a wide ball bearing with a big enough through hole that you could use a Delrin sleeve between the bearings and cue and use the outside of the bearing as the surface you tighten up the steady rest on. Then you can use your indicator and adjust until you get perfect concentricity.

Favorite tips so far.

Bought an Action Elite - the cheap ash one with an Everest medium. The stick became Cue 1 and the tip along with it. Stiffened up considerably; playing like a WB now. Never flared.
Yeah, I don't like my Everest new, I like it best a layer or 2 from the red warning layer, by that time its fully compressed and plays great. I wonder if one could make a layered milk dud tip?

Radial joint insall

Wood lathes and cue making isn't a great match, but there's always workarounds. Concentricity would be my main concern. Is your stead rest the type that can be adjusted from three sides, like a metal lathe steady? Do you have a mag base and a indicator? Personally I'm a test dial indicator kinda guy, but a regular indicator will work fine as well.
You will have to make sure your tailstock and cue spinning in the steady is a close 100% concentric as possible.
Since Radial pins have a barrel that's.371" and a 3/8" drill is .375" I'm a bit concerned about the snugness of the fit. Also if you are using cheap HSS drills, they will walk on you. You need to use cobalt or carbide. Have you considered using a straight 3/8-10 pin with no barrel? That way you can use a letter N bit and just tap the hole, no more fuss.
Yeah the wood lathe isn't going to be ideal, but I wanted to get my feet wet a bit before I spend a lot more money on a better lathe. The rest I bought has two wheels on the bottom and one on the top, so the bottom two wheels adjust together and the top is separate.

I don't have an indicator, going to have to put that on the shopping list for sure.

I wish that I had gone with 3/8 - 10, but my playing shaft is radial, so I want to match that. (I could have someone redo the shaft joint, but I do like the radial from a playing standpoint. I appreciate the tip on the drill bits, I'll make sure they're good when I pick those up as well.

I'm a bit concerned about not being able to ream the hole more precisely, I was going to look for a bit holder type attachment similar to what you use on a metal lathe.

Favorite tips so far.

I prefer leather, medium or hard.
I don't see how players can like soft tips, they hit like a marshmallow is glued to my cue. Nothing worse than hitting the cue ball and not feeling or hearing it. Especially after what we have learned from Dr. Dave about tip hardness. Is it possible some cues are so stiff that they feel like hitting with glass when using a medium or hard tip? Schon has always seemed to be one of the stiffest hitting cues and they still play nice with medium or hard tips.

Radial joint insall

There may be ways to increase the accuracy that I just don’t know about yet, I picked up a used wood lathe. It’s a delta model 46-700 and I’ve ordered a rolling rest and a jaw chuck to use with it. I also need to pick up a tail stock drill chuck of course.
Wood lathes and cue making isn't a great match, but there's always workarounds. Concentricity would be my main concern. Is your stead rest the type that can be adjusted from three sides, like a metal lathe steady? Do you have a mag base and a indicator? Personally I'm a test dial indicator kinda guy, but a regular indicator will work fine as well.
You will have to make sure your tailstock and cue spinning in the steady is a close 100% concentric as possible.
Since Radial pins have a barrel that's.371" and a 3/8" drill is .375" I'm a bit concerned about the snugness of the fit. Also if you are using cheap HSS drills, they will walk on you. You need to use cobalt or carbide. Have you considered using a straight 3/8-10 pin with no barrel? That way you can use a letter N bit and just tap the hole, no more fuss.

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