fastone371 said:

That looks outstanding!!!!! Were you able to save the diamonds on the rails? Thats one thing that always concerned me, how to save them and make it look good.

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Thank-you.

The table was missing one diamond when I bought it, and I wasn't planning on saving them. I printed new circular inlays out of copper-filled PLA with black diamonds inset. Keeps with the theme of the table colors. I painted the rails, then re-cut the pockets on my mill. This was the most stressful part of the build, but a brand-new carbide cutter resulted in no chip-outs. I shot four coats of 2k clear after. It worked out well, but that is 100% the part that would be the toughest to do without having a good way to cut the pockets. If I didn't have the mill or at least a good drill press, I would have likely compromised and used some kind of overlay before clear coating. Happily, I didn't have to resort to that.

I know this thread is about contact points
But if you use fractional aiming
You could just aim directly at a spot on the object ball
And not have to try to aim somewhere else to make a certain spot on the cue ball hit a certain spot on the object ball
Just saying…..

HawaiianEye said:

Why is everone in such a hurry?

I like tournaments with regular games and double elimination.

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2am and split pots.....

The pool league in our area requires a minimum of 2 tables. Working men won't play if matches run late, they have to get up Early for work.

straightline said:

How hammered do you have to be to hug a toilet?

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Commode huggin' drunk!

Allison Fischer has said that she looks at the point on the OB that is farthest from the pocket.

DeeDeeCues said:

The Formica can be worked and painted the same way as automotive body work is done. My GCI had several cigarette burns, so I sanded it, filled the burns and dents, then painted. I'm not a huge fan of wood grain Formica to begin with, so I was happy to have something different.

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That looks outstanding!!!!! Were you able to save the diamonds on the rails? Thats one thing that always concerned me, how to save them and make it look good.

Bump.

The rhino or newer rhino must. Just as good as the "name brand" shafts, at a fraction of the cost. In fact, i like my rhino must more than the new model pechauer rogue. The must is the slickest cf shaft i have tried. The must also comes with a quality japanese leather tip, unlike the first rhinos resin-like time crystal tip that feels like you have a piece of stone for a tip. Its the first shaft that i have stuck with the factory tip and not swapped.

Visualizing the balls as horizontal sections through the equator basically reduces the 3D problem to 2D, and casts the aiming problem as that seen in carom pool (that game played on a wooden board with discs instead of balls). Is aiming easier in carom pool compared to regular pool? I would say yes. Furthermore, if you are writing code for aiming problem calculations, the initial step is to ignore the spherical nature of the pool balls, and treat them as discs. So, for those who can actually see past the spherical nature of the balls and visualize them as equatorial discs, there may be a real advantage in aiming.

Jimmy_Betmore said:

It's the construction method. Round tipped points are inlaid rather than "spliced" in. One could argue that short splice points are still inlaid simply because the point wood doesn't extend below the A joint. But short splice points are a installed in a way that is exponentially more similar to full splice than the inlaid points like most production cues have. The pockets for either type of construction can be made using CNC, though.

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What @skor is saying is that it is possible to create a cnc pocket that results in a nearly perfectly sharp point. There are at least two ways of doing this. One is not truly full CNC, as it would be for person to hand-cut the sharp angles with the sharp instrument of his choice.

Another would be to use an angled cutter, likely an engraving bit, to finish the pocket and to taper-cut the edges with the bit cutting up and out at all corners. This would result in the pockets being very similar to a true point for a short distance at the point. The inlay would be cut with a matching bevel.

I expect there are several reasons the large companies choose not to do this. First, not enough people really care. Second, they might not have the cad/cam expertise to do this. Third, it is another step that requires at least one more tool change in the point and will take more time. Fourth, the inlay is more delicate and requires more care when installing.

I call BS when I hear talk about the cue or tip being to blame. I can pick out a cue from a selection that'll suit the feel/hit that I'm looking for and enough of how I like a tip to respond. I've got a crap 2 pc ash cue that plays good and it's nothing like the cues these guys are using.