glue to use on junk

poolcuemaster

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I know this might have been mentioned before but I need to know what glue works best on a cutec ferrule. I glued on a wizard medium with the white gorilla glue not the CA and it cut great but only stayed on for three hours of play. Please tell me your thoughts on glue not the junky cue, and call Travis Totter and tell him I said this.--Leonard

PS it is a newer SST type of shaft
 
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I know this might have been mentioned before but I need to know what glue works best on a cutec ferrule. I glued on a wizard medium with the white gorilla glue not the CA and it cut great but only stayed on for three hours of play. Please tell me your thoughts on glue not the junky cue, and call Travis Totter and tell him I said this.--Leonard

PS it is a newer SST type of shaft

I've been having real good luck by sanding the back, then applying a coat of thin CA glue. After drying I lightly sand the back & glue with CA GEL. This was a tip posted here some time ago, for glueing Morri tips, but it also works well with these cheap ferruled cues, & all tips..JER
 
I know this might have been mentioned before but I need to know what glue works best on a cutec ferrule. I glued on a wizard medium with the white gorilla glue not the CA and it cut great but only stayed on for three hours of play. Please tell me your thoughts on glue not the junky cue, and call Travis Totter and tell him I said this.--Leonard

PS it is a newer SST type of shaft

White gorilla glue should have held up. Did you wet the face of the ferrule?
Did you sand the bottom of the tip before applying the glue?
 
I haven't had a problem with cuetecs yet, unless It's a newer model with different ferrule material that I haven't tried yet (Edit- After posting I see That It is a newer model that I don't think I've worked on yet, so I'm not familiar with the material), I usually just use 454 to glue them on the older ones so can't speak for the new models. Could Be the material for all I know.

Sometimes you just get a ferrule, even of the same material type that doesn't want to stick as well as others, possibly because they came from a different batch of ferrule material, although that's just a wild guess.

Not saying this is the problem without seeing in person, but I would recommend double checking Your facing to make sure It's nice and square, be sure to check the tip too. That I have found is one of the largest reasons for glue failure. Not only the ferrule face, but Some tips are funny about not wanting to sand square, I know of 2 brands of tip that are hit and miss when It comes to that, and My thinking is the leather isn't sanding evenly or something, so the trick Jerry mentioned not only helps prime the tip, but IMO can sometimes help with getting them to sand square. Also pressed tips can be funny. I have a theory that sometimes they can almost pop themselves. My thinking is that sometimes the face is distorted after gluing because the leather is still trying to expand back to normal. This is not always the case granted, but I have seen enough evidence to believe there may be something to It. Some brands are effected more them others though, and if given enough time after pressing before sanding the face or installing, It can usually be minimized.

You know I mentioned this to a friend of Mine not too long ago, But I have a little different way of testing the face then some may, although I'm sure I'm not the only one that does This.... I use to always test for square using the edge of My calipers, and that's a decent way to tell If It's square I guess, but It was never guaranteed that the 2 faces were actually matched perfectly. Everything may would be mostly square, and the tip did not rock, but still if you put your finger on the tip to hold the tip against the ferrule with a little bit of pressure toward the headstock, and a slight bit in a side to side direction, and the 2 faces easily slide around on each other, then that seems It's 50/50 as to if it will hold after gluing. If However the tip sort of sticks in position and kind of wants to hold & grab, then odds are much better that Glue will hold. I still check for square, but that trick is always the last word for me before I glue.
 
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I've been having real good luck by sanding the back, then applying a coat of thin CA glue. After drying I lightly sand the back & glue with CA GEL. This was a tip posted here some time ago, for glueing Morri tips, but it also works well with these cheap ferruled cues, & all tips..JER


I agree JER, Ca Gel works just fine on Cuetecs or any other cue with the low end plastic ferrules. I have never had a problem with any type of tip I have installed why would anyone use anything else tips!!!:shrug:

I do have a suggestion for the person who started this thread, buy a couple of furniture clamps like those pictured below, they are cheap (less than $20) and they can be used in many area's of cue building. They are also great for applying pressure to ferrules or joint collars they will not hurt the shaft in any way and tips will not come off.

1a.jpg

Take care
 
I haven't used the gorrilla glue for tips yet, but using most super glues, haven't had a tip pop off of a cuetec yet. I owned one for breaking for 12 yrs, up untill recently, and never had a tip pop. I just did an SST for a customer last week and it's been great. I use the control gel from locktite now for every tip and so far 100% good. One fact that I like about it is I never have to use pliers to get the cap off. As soon as I let go of the side of the bottle, it sucks the glue back in and therefore, no mess, no stuck cap later. I do prime the tip with a cheap thin CA, then sand smooth again with 400 gritt, then check to make sure the tip doesn't rock on the ferrule. I also use tip holders that I made that go into the tailstock drill chuck, and 'press' the tip on, so there aren't any air pockets underneath the tip when glued. These also assure that the tip is pretty centered on the ferrule for trimming.
Hope this helps,
Dave
 
Thanks guys I sanded the tip good and turned the ferrule face square in the lathe then wet the ferrule and the tip applied the white gorilla and pressed it with the tailstock with a concave live center. I waited 30 minutes and trimmed with new carpet blade while still pushing with tailstock, then moved tailstock and put lathe in forward and shaped tip with same blade. He called the next evening and said he loved the new tip and after three hours he texted that the tip popped off just then. I will try a new tip this evening with Loctite control gel and first thin ca. Thanks again ---Leonard

even with a big miscue I thought the gorilla glue would hold
 
Thanks guys I sanded the tip good and turned the ferrule face square in the lathe then wet the ferrule and the tip applied the white gorilla and pressed it with the tailstock with a concave live center. I waited 30 minutes and trimmed with new carpet blade while still pushing with tailstock, then moved tailstock and put lathe in forward and shaped tip with same blade. He called the next evening and said he loved the new tip and after three hours he texted that the tip popped off just then. I will try a new tip this evening with Loctite control gel and first thin ca. Thanks again ---Leonard

even with a big miscue I thought the gorilla glue would hold

Nothing holds as well as Super Leonard, I between 500 and 1000 tips a year, and I have never had a problem uing the clamp I provided a photo of, unless it was layered tip that delaminated. While using the pressure from the tail stock will work you can apply more pressure with the clamp in the photo. In the end it is all about having a flat facing on the ferrule which has been ruffed up, a tip with it's back suface ruffed up, and removing any air bubbles that form during tip instalation. I suspect the reason the Gorrila Glue didn't work is because it foams up instead of drying smooth.

Good Luck with the Super Glue Gel:)
 
I had the same thing happen to a cuetec 2 weeks ago. The old tip that came off did not show any glue adhesion to the ferrule, but plenty of adhesion to the tenon. I have used CA without a problem, facing the shaft, sanding the tip flush and using a tip pic to lightly indent the back of the tip. The tip that I put on did not last more than a couple of breaks, with the same adhesion problems. I have no answer to the problem, I used a different tip (of course) and the same procedure a second time. All is still good on the second install. I was using hard buffalo tips, they can be a little harder to get stuck sometimes.

Just my 50dy cents,
Alan
 
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