Failure, Again

Well I said I wouldn't reply this post again but I feel that I must because I've been called a liar. My only other response to this post was on page 4, post #56 on July 16th (please review that post before calling me a liar or criticizing me for no customer service). I referenced the fact that Tbayplayer had one of my jump/breaks, loved the cue and had not broken that shaft even though it had no insert or collars and he is a big guy and utilizes a true power break. Well...as fate would have it he later broke his shaft (about 2 weeks later). He sent me a pm on 07/30 stating that "You told me it was going to happen" because he broke the shaft the night before (July 29th). I offered to work with him to get it repaired but only with joint collars and perhaps an insert (all of my stock jump/breaks have a brass insert). My big mistake with that cue was building it as requested. I felt an obligation to repair it but I did not feel that I should bear the entire cost as it was built to his specifications and I warned him that it would probably not hold up to a true power break such as his. I made a couple of repair offers which he refused. After he decided he didn't want the cue anymore I offered to send him a new jump cue gratis that he really wanted just to attempt some type of ammends. He refused as is his perogative.
I don't believe that the fact that fatsix broke 2 shafts on a shooting cue or Tbayplayer broke a shaft on a break cue equates to a huge conspiracy to hide some sort of manufacturing defect.
Fatsix has thrown a lot of accusations at myself and the integrity of the sneakiestpete's and I've attempted to lay low out of respect for his frustration. I've sold a lot of these cues here and elsewhere and I am here to state to any and all that his 2 shafts are the ONLY ones to have broken other than the above mentioned break/jump. I have received many, many compliments from the others who have purchased one of my sneakies. If you don't believe me check my I-Trader...pm anyone who has one of the cues and get their opinion.
As far as the alleged "taper" that is constantly criticized...THERE IS NO TAPER. Take a dowel, tap it as you would a shaft and then cut it at the approx angle of the break on fatsix's shaft. You will see what appears to be a taper but you will also see that it is just an illusion.
Why did we determine that there was no manufacturing defect? The break occurred opposite the grain line, the ferrule did indeed have burnish marks on it and the shaft had a few prety good nicks on it. Had this been the first occurrence we may have given more latitude to the buyer.
As I stated in my other post...I initially offered fatsix a brand new cue when his first shaft broke. I offered to replace the shaft at my cost after the second shaft broke. He refused both of these offers and yet I'm a liar and offer no customer service?
I don't claim to be perfect but I'm not a liar and I do want happy customers. If my product is such a piece of junk I think you would have heard one hell of a lot more complaints than what has been posted on this thread by a whole lot of people who bought my cues. My I-trader would reflect that as well.
 
One other statement has been made that is not true but perhaps a misunderstanding. The SneakiestPetes are still being made and sold. It is true that I am no longer selling the cues that are currently in production but I am absolutely still involved with the all production and distribution aspects of the cues going forward.
Please realize that there are always 2 sides to every story and as much as I wanted to leave my communication at my original post on July 16th I could not in good consience just leave all of the negatives hanging out there. My motivation for creating/selling the sneakiestpete was not and is not to screw anyone over.
 
Last edited:
Yes, there have been a dozen recamendations on a collar or insert for the shaft. However this is poolfools issue to fix with his manufacturing techniques. I'm not willing to sink any more money into a budget cue. I did decline the new cue he offered me the fist time because the figure in the wood wasn't as nice as the one i originally purchased, cant fault me there. I really wish i did take pictures of the tip, because you are absolutely dead wrong about being burnish marks on the ferrule. When the second shaft broke it broke out the side and went flying across the table and onto the floor. Thats where the little blue dent came from on the second shaft. Thats why i keep saying there was no downward pressure. It also damaged the clear coat on the but, which i why i didn't want the cue anymore. So in your own mind that there are no manufacturing defects, just look at the quality of the threads and compare them to any other shaft, its piss poor. The tip of the iceberg is that the tip from the first shaft was reused and glue was smeared around the outside to buildup the tip to match the diameter. Like it wasnt going to chip off on the first hit?

To the poster with the broken breakshaft. No other cuemaker would make it that way because they know a shooting cue will not stay together. I think there were 3 cuemakers that posted that they made a cue without a collar or insert and it lasted a week? Do we see a pattern here?

While manufacturing techniques might not be the issue, workmanship and experience definately are. Maybe these are the chineese cues from the other thread?
 
You just believe in your story Poolfool1957, your customer service is good until there is a problem with one of your cues.

I requested a shaft with and insert originally, you sent me a shaft with no insert because your cuemaker was not set up for inserts. Your word is apparently no good. This is a not the first time your sneakiestpete shafts have lasted 3 weeks, no wonder why the cues are being discontinued in the present state from which they are made.

I don't like calling people out publicly on this forum believe me it is not worth the hassle. But since several pm"s have been made back and forth and no shaft was made in good faith customer service doesn"t seem to be a top priority for Poolfool1957....charging $235.00 for a break cue that is destine to fail and making the all mighty dollar is.

To all the cuemakers with an opinion, would you make a wood to wood break cue without an insert in the shaft?
I have made a few with the big pin in it without any problems! EVERYONE of them has JOINT RINGS on them!!!


If it was me building/selling these cues I would replace the shaft one more time and have a joint ring on it this time. To me it just isnt worth the neg publicity over a shaft!!
 
Collar is a must if it has no insert.

Joey ...:p ...!

Why is a collar a must?
Of course if you bend the cue like a bow on your break a collar will give added strength.
But most players dont break like that.
I would think a thicker joint diameter would help if you were to go wood to wood 3/8 10 pin.
Say .860" to .865" ... that would be plenty strong enough.

Am I thinking wrong here?

Willee
 
To the poster with the broken breakshaft. No other cuemaker would make it that way because they know a shooting cue will not stay together. I think there were 3 cuemakers that posted that they made a cue without a collar or insert and it lasted a week? Do we see a pattern here?

This is exactly why custom cues are made.
If you are a brute of a breaker you need a cue made that can take your atomic stroke time after time.
Most players do not need that kind of a cue.

I flat out guarantee I could make you a break cue that you would never break by busting balls.
 
Joey ...:p ...!

Why is a collar a must?
Of course if you bend the cue like a bow on your break a collar will give added strength.
But most players dont break like that.
I would think a thicker joint diameter would help if you were to go wood to wood 3/8 10 pin.
Say .860" to .865" ... that would be plenty strong enough.

Am I thinking wrong here?

Willee

I've seen jumpcue split at the face of the shaft ( no collar ) just by the player whacking at the cushion of his chair after missing.
And as Mike pointed out, industrial slow-drying epoxy is preferred as well.
 
Back
Top