Cuemaker recommendation?

M

Misha

New member
Hello all, I've been reading Az for a long time, off and on, but never needed to post. Now I do.

I'm looking for a maker that maybe speaks my language. I haven't really sent out any feelers yet, so this will be a request for an idea or two or maybe you could steer me to a maker that might be interested.

I've been playing seriously for a long time. I play pretty well, not pro, but I get by. I quit for a while, and now I'm back a little.

I've owned a lot of cues. Tim Scruggs, many Joss, Viking, Meucci <g>, Chester Crick, and a few others. None of them really did it for me. although some were close. I know I don't like a metal jointed cues. I know I do like a W2W joint. I know I like to spin the ball, and need a juice shaft.

I don't like real fancy, and I like understated designs. Those that only get better with years. Kind of like a classic car. It ages well.

I don't like a linen wrap, and although I'm playing now with no wrap, I do like a leather wrap if done right. I like a radial pin. I like it either SS or Ti. I don't like a lot of ring work.

I'm not real big on lots of points, or fancy inlays. I like the lighter woods, especially snake wood when it's combined tastefully. Ebony is another favorite, if used properly. I don't like dark woods or designs, but do like lighter colors with maybe some burgundy, forest green, and ivory tones to finish the look. But, the most important thing for me, and the one that must take precedence above all others is playability. A workman like stick. One I can haul around and not have to guard with my life. One that hits very well, and if you play some, you will know what I mean. I need this one to play with, not look at.

I have generally used the old Moori MH tips, if that helps. I understand the new ones aren't up to par, so maybe a Kamui SS black, or an Everest will do.

If anyone would like to submit an idea, that would be great. I know some makers are on the road, some are backed up, and some won't be interested. I'm looking at maybe a 2 to 4 month lead, although I'd go longer for a maker that has a good rep for a playing cue. Of the cues I've owned, the original Meucci was as close as I have ever gotten. The Scruggs had a butt taper too large in the back (for me), a McDermott and others are too back balanced, Some had the wrong pro taper in the shafts. I like it 13mm or a slight bit larger, standard maple shafts, and matched if possible. 18.5-18.75 oz, and 59" long. (equal length shaft and butt).

If any maker here wants to pitch an idea, or needs more info, just PM me, please.

Misha.
 
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there are many many cuemakers that can help you including myself. i think you just need to pick one and go over some things. i have a nice davis blank about to be ready bumperless hoppe bacote forearm and buttsleeve rosewood points full splice.
 
Thanks for the reply, Dave. Sure, I could just pick a maker, but I've been out of the game for a long time, and haven't kept up with the builders. I used to talk to Thomas Wayne years ago (by e-mail) but I suppose he's on his mountain and unavailable:grin:

I couldn't afford him anyway....:rolleyes:

So, I'd need to research anyone that is interested, just to see what their rep is, and how their sticks actually play.

Some GREAT cue makers (expensive ones, I mean) I have tried and I'd rather use a Duffrin. Sometimes..............<g> Naturally hit is a personal preference, but I'd like to try and find someone that speaks my kind of cue. Know what I mean?

I've given the specs, the only issues that are left are:

Delivery time.
Reputation
Design moxie
Execution
Playing characteristics
Price.

About in that order of preference, if that helps any....

I'd take an relatively unknown builder, too, and have, BTW, And got one of the best playing sticks of my life. (Sold it, stupid me).

Anyway, thanks for the advice!
 
well. i start my plain maple cues at 500$ with one shaft linen wrap. i can make any specs you want. SS joint 3x8-10 or 5x16-14 pin and about 45 days. i have a brown tad 1style left i can finish up for that price or i can do plain maple. add 50$ for leather then shipping...
 
I've read your initial post 2-3 times now and to be honest, I haven't a clue as to what you want. Unfortunately, I don't think that you really know either. It sounds like you're asking for examples on the basis of "I'll know it when I see it".

If you are serious about having a cue built, the responsibility is on you to do your homework. Do some research on some of these builders and look at some of the cues they've built. Many builders have web-sites.
Do some research on the mtrls/components that you'd like in the cue.
More importantly, know why you're making these choices. Is it purely looks or is it based on functionality?

"I like a radial pin. I like it either SS or Ti. I don't like a lot of ring work."

Be advised that there is about 3/4oz difference in the wght. of these two pins. A 59" cue @ 18.5/18.75oz would need careful consideration in wght. placement, especially since you've mentioned Ebony & Snakewood.
Personally, I'd advise against the use of either of these woods in this cue.

"I like the lighter woods, especially snake wood when it's combined tastefully. Ebony is another favorite, if used properly. I don't like dark woods or designs, but do like lighter colors with maybe some burgundy, forest green, and ivory tones to finish the look."

Neither of these woods (Ebony - Snakewood) are light, either in appearance or wght.
I understand your statement of not liking a lot of ring-work yet you've mentioned the desire for several different colors for accents. Unless you're speaking of veneers then I don't know where else they would go.

I'm not trying to burst your bubble of the custom cue buying experience, but to avoid disappointment, you're going to have to be very specific as to what you want. If it can't be done or it's not advisable, an honest builder will tell you so.

Just as a suggestion, there are many, many cues for sale in the 'Wanted/For Sale' section. Patience, particularly in this 'buyer's market' can be a great asset. The cue you seek may already be built. A tastefully constructed handle coupled with a Predator 314 shaft should give you all the performance you're looking for.

Good Luck in your search. Happy trails.
 
Like KJ, I too am a little confused with the wood issue but if you are interested in a players cue I would be happy to talk to you about it.

Bob Danielson
www.bdcuesandcomix.com
 
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KJ Cues said:
I've read your initial post 2-3 times now and to be honest, I haven't a clue as to what you want. Unfortunately, I don't think that you really know either. It sounds like you're asking for examples on the basis of "I'll know it when I see it".

If you are serious about having a cue built, the responsibility is on you to do your homework. Do some research on some of these builders and look at some of the cues they've built. Many builders have web-sites.
Do some research on the mtrls/components that you'd like in the cue.
More importantly, know why you're making these choices. Is it purely looks or is it based on functionality?

"I like a radial pin. I like it either SS or Ti. I don't like a lot of ring work."

Be advised that there is about 3/4oz difference in the wght. of these two pins. A 59" cue @ 18.5/18.75oz would need careful consideration in wght. placement, especially since you've mentioned Ebony & Snakewood.
Personally, I'd advise against the use of either of these woods in this cue.

"I like the lighter woods, especially snake wood when it's combined tastefully. Ebony is another favorite, if used properly. I don't like dark woods or designs, but do like lighter colors with maybe some burgundy, forest green, and ivory tones to finish the look."

Neither of these woods (Ebony - Snakewood) are light, either in appearance or wght.
I understand your statement of not liking a lot of ring-work yet you've mentioned the desire for several different colors for accents. Unless you're speaking of veneers then I don't know where else they would go.

I'm not trying to burst your bubble of the custom cue buying experience, but to avoid disappointment, you're going to have to be very specific as to what you want. If it can't be done or it's not advisable, an honest builder will tell you so.

Just as a suggestion, there are many, many cues for sale in the 'Wanted/For Sale' section. Patience, particularly in this 'buyer's market' can be a great asset. The cue you seek may already be built. A tastefully constructed handle coupled with a Predator 314 shaft should give you all the performance you're looking for.

Good Luck in your search. Happy trails.
Click to expand...

When I got in from the pool room around 3:am I read this and started to comment on the contradictories in his desires for a finished cue but the materials and style mentioned and started to make a comment but let it slide. I figured he's a newbie and I didn't want to run him off so quickly.

Dick
 
I don't understand at all

Man, I must be talking Chinese or something. I'm going to really spell it out now.

My specs clearly call for a radial pin W2W joint. And yet I get all these offers for a Joss joint, or a variation. I mentioned a SS OR a Ti radial pin SO that the maker could use it to his advantage for weight design. I could go with either one, depending on what the maker need to do. It gives him some mechanical design room, get it?

If I wanted a stock spec cue, I'd buy one off the shelf. So, do ANY cues here in the 4sale area have my specs? NO.

My choice of ebony, etc was an attempt to show the look I like. I know what they weigh. I've got some slabs lying around myself. I was thinking maybe using it for ACCENT purposes. Know what I mean? Another OPTION for the maker to consider, is all.

And, assuming I'm a newbie because I won't immediately jump on some "piece already built" is a bad assumption. This ain't my first BBQ.

Yeah, I know what I want. I also know what I don't want. The actual design is left in the hands of the cue maker, where it belongs, IMHO.

I'll take some heat for not speaking plainly. But, some of you need to take some for not listening.........at all. JMHO, here of course.

Of course, maybe some don't speak my language at all. That's OK too. Not everyone does.

Like I said, IF you speak my language, and have an IDEA of what I want (some here will know EXACTLY what I'm saying) then pitch me your idea, and a link to what you sorta have in mind, and we'll go from there. Thanks for all the responses.

Misha

(edit: when I re-read this post, it comes off a bit too bluntly. It was not intented to be. Only an attempt to clarify. Some of the posts above probably weren't understood, either).
 
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Specific Gravity of Woods & Cue Specs.

Misha,

Snakewood is very heavy and dark and even if you core it you are going to have a cue that feels like a lead pipe. Ebony is not light either.

You are dealing with guys here that have been around the block a few times and to have a custom cue built to your specs. you have to be very specific.

How many shafts, shaft dimension, tip, ferrule, joint, inlays, points, rings, handle, specific wood material for forearm, handle, butt sleeve & cap. Most cue makers have a desired pin that they use on their cues so you might want to go to some websites and check them out. Sounds to me that you are looking for a Plain Jane, nothing fancy.

FYI, you are better off finding a cue that is already built than ordering a custom cue. When I quote a price for a custom cue, that's the price. When someone wants to buy a cue that I have already finished, they can usually get me to come down a little bit to close a sale.

How do you know how your spec. cue is going to play? Every cue plays differently. You should go to a billiards trade show like Valley Forge and check out and hit some cues. Wait till Sunday afternoon to make your offer and get a great deal on a cue that you have hit with.

Good luck,

Rick Geschrey
 
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Misha, You want a non fancy players cue to your taste. I have built a reputation here in Chicago for having some of the best playing cues. My screen name is wood to wood and I feel that joint is the best for touch, feel, control. I am considered a newer cuemaker starting repairs in 2002 and cue biulding in late 2004. My prices are very reasonable as I want to get my work out of the Chicago area. Together we can come up with a strong player that is also visually pleasing to your taste. I have used the radial pin as well as the 3/8-10 modified in my cues. You can choose what you like.

Jon Spitz
847-529-7692
 
Patrick, that is one damn handsome cue! But again, alas, not my specs...

Wood2Wood, I'll be calling you tomorrow, (Sunday) about 12 noon my time (PCT). I like your attitude. Do you have a problem with one or two of my friends I know talking to you?

I know a few good players in Chicago.

Anyway, thanks for all the responses.........some here might be great builders, but as I stated in my very first post, I want someone that speaks cue, in my dialect:)

Misha
 
cues

You are welcome to visit my website below and look at what I have currently available. I will be adding ten or eleven new designs over the next two weeks so stay in touch. We can communicate by email if you like.

http://www.triplecrosscues.com

Thanks for the opportunity to show my efforts.

Tom Gedris, Triple Cross Cues:cool:
email address: triplecrosscues@yahoo.com
 
Thanks Guys! I found my guy.

I really appreciate all the responses and PM's I have received here re: my request.

I have tried to respond to all, and I thank you for all the advice and the links. I have settled on a guy here, (maybe 2), and have decided to go with him. He can reveal his name if he likes. He really talks my language, and understands exactly what I want.

I can't do any better than that.

Misha.
 
Misha said:
Patrick, that is one damn handsome cue! But again, alas, not my specs...

Wood2Wood, I'll be calling you tomorrow, (Sunday) about 12 noon my time (PCT). I like your attitude. Do you have a problem with one or two of my friends I know talking to you?

I know a few good players in Chicago.

Anyway, thanks for all the responses.........some here might be great builders, but as I stated in my very first post, I want someone that speaks cue, in my dialect:)

Misha
Click to expand...
Misha:

thanks!

Thanks
DOUG
 
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