A idea for coring

Newton

Newton

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Was down in the shop tonight. Sitting on the chair doing a clean up of a small
tail stock, I had a idea - possibly not new and may be used already:

In stead of moving the tailstock for each "turn" using the coring drill,
it struck me - why do I not just mount the drill in a beefy tool holder on my cross
slide? In this way I can use a nice auto feed and not having to do this in steps
of the tailstock travel.

I'm using a large quick change tool holder - that one I tested/described
up here earlier. The "Round tool" holder is never in use since the holder is to
big (rooms tools of OD<25-30mm). So this could hold the coring drill.

Any one tried it? I guess it might be a thing many use and not new
in this respect?

I have no coring drill to test it out with at the moment so I have no conclusion
in respect of vibrations or other potential bad things I may have forgotten :)

What do you think ?

Kent
 
Newton said:
Was down in the shop tonight. Sitting on the chair doing a clean up of a small
tail stock, I had a idea - possibly not new and may be used already:

In stead of moving the tailstock for each "turn" using the coring drill,
it struck me - why do I not just mount the drill in a beefy tool holder on my cross
slide? In this way I can use a nice auto feed and not having to do this in steps
of the tailstock travel.

I'm using a large quick change tool holder - that one I tested/described
up here earlier. The "Round tool" holder is never in use since the holder is to
big (rooms tools of OD<25-30mm). So this could hold the coring drill.

Any one tried it? I guess it might be a thing many use and not new
in this respect?

I have no coring drill to test it out with at the moment so I have no conclusion
in respect of vibrations or other potential bad things I may have forgotten :)

What do you think ?

Kent
Click to expand...
it is done that way by several people i know of
and theres another way too :wink:
my gun drill goes into a chuck in tailstock
i have taken the tailstock off and moved to the other side of the carraige and let the carraige "push" it
after doing that a few times and realizing i didnt think it was necessary to use the feed,
i just stand on the end of lathe and push by hand slowly after i use tailstock crank to start it the first couple of inches
 
I have my drill on the boring bar holder.
I line up the quick-change air port to the dead center mounted on the tailstock.
 
BHQ said:
it is done that way by several people i know of
and theres another way too :wink:
my gun drill goes into a chuck in tailstock
i have taken the tailstock off and moved to the other side of the carraige and let the carraige "push" it
after doing that a few times and realizing i didnt think it was necessary to use the feed,
i just stand on the end of lathe and push by hand slowly after i use tailstock crank to start it the first couple of inches
Click to expand...


Cool. I thought it was a to easy idea for no one else doing it he he.
I think my tailstock could be a little to heavy to be ''pushed'' by the carriage.

My reason for considering a different solution was also that the MT3 in the
tailstock limit the length of the coring drill. With a MT3 shank the longest is 260mm but with a Weldon shank I could have a ton of lengths.
And the Weldon fits in my quick change tool post so I guess it's a winner :thumbup2:

K
 
JoeyInCali said:
I have my drill on the boring bar holder.
I line up the quick-change air port to the dead center mounted on the tailstock.
Click to expand...

Ingenious idea on the centering :thumbup:
That was a problem my brain has been processing since I started considering this .
Great !

Would be looking on that coring drill we discussed earlier now Joey :)

K
 
JoeyInCali said:
I have my drill on the boring bar holder.
I line up the quick-change air port to the dead center mounted on the tailstock.
Click to expand...

This is how I've always done it and thought that's how everyone did it. I never even knew one could me held in the tail stock.

Dick
 
Newton said:
Cool. I thought it was a to easy idea for no one else doing it he he.
I think my tailstock could be a little to heavy to be ''pushed'' by the carriage.

My reason for considering a different solution was also that the MT3 in the
tailstock limit the length of the coring drill. With a MT3 shank the longest is 260mm
whats that in "inches" LOL

but with a Weldon shank I could have a ton of lengths.
And the Weldon fits in my quick change tool post so I guess it's a winner :thumbup2:

K
Click to expand...
i have an mt2 with a 3/4" jacobs drill chuck ,
my core drill will go thru 20"

would you need more than 20" length??????
 
rhncue said:
This is how I've always done it and thought that's how everyone did it. I never even knew one could me held in the tail stock.

Dick
Click to expand...
sterling has both dickie
when i spoke with sterling,
he asked what diameter shank i wanted
i think, if memory serves me, the options were 5/8", 3/4" & 7/8"
 
Newton said:
Cool. I thought it was a to easy idea for no one else doing it he he.
I think my tailstock could be a little to heavy to be ''pushed'' by the carriage.

My reason for considering a different solution was also that the MT3 in the
tailstock limit the length of the coring drill. With a MT3 shank the longest is 260mm but with a Weldon shank I could have a ton of lengths.
And the Weldon fits in my quick change tool post so I guess it's a winner :thumbup2:

K
Click to expand...

i may be wrong , my memory sucks,
i thought it was eric crisp that mentioned the "push" method on here at one time
truthfully, i'd never thought of doing that, (at first, maybe eventually):grin: ) if i hadnt seen it written on here somewhere
 
BHQ said:
i have an mt2 with a 3/4" jacobs drill chuck ,
my core drill will go thru 20"

would you need more than 20" length??????
Click to expand...


Just double checked :
The MT3 drill has max cut length of 273mm =10,7'' which is to short.

Have to hit horizontal now for a recharge...

K
 
when i ordered mine from sterling they asked me if i would be using it in tool post or tail stock. i chose tail stock so i dont have to line it up everytime. i also got .650 not .625 so i can clean up a tenon for ringwork
 
dave sutton said:
when i ordered mine from sterling they asked me if i would be using it in tool post or tail stock. i chose tail stock so i dont have to line it up everytime. i also got .650 not .625 so i can clean up a tenon for ringwork
Click to expand...

Yeah, I screwed up when I ordered mine. I bought it about 12 years ago and I got .750. I wish I would have got it both a few thousandths larger in diameter and about 4" or maybe 8" longer. At the moment I make my cores with one end at about .900. I have no trouble now as I make my A-joint differently than I used to unless in is a non wrapped cue.

Dick
 
rhncue said:
Yeah, I screwed up when I ordered mine. I bought it about 12 years ago and I got .750. I wish I would have got it both a few thousandths larger in diameter and about 4" or maybe 8" longer. At the moment I make my cores with one end at about .900. I have no trouble now as I make my A-joint differently than I used to unless in is a non wrapped cue.

Dick
Click to expand...

.650, .758 and .883 are what I have.
 
i just go straight .650 i dont want bigger in the joint end. .750 under .850 scares me a little

that being said i do not do exotic handle wrapless cues. one day ill pick up a 775 or something in that range. cant hurt
 
I got the 650 & 775, both for tailstock. I use the 650 for pilot, then the 775 for finish cut. I push the tailstock by hand, like Brent. I pilot a 1" hole with a 5/8" straight router bit, bore with the 650, then pilot again with a 3/4" straight bit and bore with the 775. From begining to end it takes me about 5 minutes to core a forearm or handle. There are likely better ways or faster ways i'm sure, but this seems plenty simple for me.
 
Just repeating my self and reposting what I did earlier:

The pictured ones are the ones I'm going for. We discussed these earlier and
the inserts in the front is interchangeable and should cut wood like butter.
There is many different cutting angles on the inserts - one typical Alu like.
The insert range is hugh and starts for the 17-24mm holder at 0.6890", 0.7008,
0.7087" and goes on and on.

So you could use one drill/holder and many inserts to do what we're doing and no
need for stacking up on the different gun drills. The inserts should last a life time
and when they're done I would throw them away and buy some new.

Just my way of doing it. Could post a update when I have received it and
tested it.

Kent
 

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BHQ said:
i have taken the tailstock off and moved to the other side of the carraige and let the carraige "push" it
Click to expand...

When I built my Gingery lathe he suggests a similar method, except that the tailstock is clamped to the carriage so it "pulls" the tailstock along when fed. This would save the time to re-arrange the lathe.

Dave
 
DaveK said:
When I built my Gingery lathe he suggests a similar method, except that the tailstock is clamped to the carriage so it "pulls" the tailstock along when fed. This would save the time to re-arrange the lathe.

Dave
Click to expand...
thats some good ol yankee ingenuity there dave,
i mean "canuck" ingenuity :wink:

just my two cents worth on the push or pull method, it isnt necessary for me
i can push by hand and blow thru 18" of ebony, cocobolo , anything in 3 minutes AT THE MOST
 
Last edited:
BHQ said:
thats some good ol yankee ingenuity there dave,
i mean "canuck" ingenuity :wink:
Click to expand...

Credit where credit is due ... the guy who wrote about this method is Dave Gingery, who was indeed ingenious and also a US citizen ... no canuck ingenuity involved (this time :wink:).

http://www.gingerybooks.com/

Dave

PS Hey Brent, the "Deluxe Accessories" book by Dave Gingery contains that graphical method for making indexing plates, you need nothing but some paper, a pencil, a square and a ruler.
 
Last edited:
Just received the drill and it's drill incert.
PM if your interested in the result (would take some days to produce. Must make threads for air vent and extras).

K
 
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