A gun drill and holder disagree and the solution

My setup is the same as Dick's

but it takes me a few minutes to line it up. Dick could you tell me how you do it?
 
dave sutton said:
when i ordered mine from sterling they ased do i want tailstock or toolpost style. i chose tailstock. i figured with the time it took me to put it in and line it up i can just move my tailstock and i know its perfect.

i paid like $120 shipped for mine with the air minus the quick release air connector which was about 3$
Click to expand...

Hi,

I agree with Dave. Both my drills are tailstock mounted as I like to control the feed by hand.

Rick G
 
Last edited:
Mase said:
but it takes me a few minutes to line it up. Dick could you tell me how you do it?
Click to expand...

I bore a .750 hole in the back of the dowel around .500 to 1.0 deep. I then mount the drill onto the tool post locking the holder to the tool post but leaving the tool post loose so that it can pivot. I then move my cross slide out to close to the appropriate distance so that I can start the drill, without the air coupling in place, into the bored hole in the tenon. I then bring the tail stock forward with a dead center in place and by moving the cross slide back and forth until the center is aligned perfectly to the inside of the brass male air hose coupler that is in the back of the drill protruding from the mount. I then just tighten the tool post to tool holder so that it can no longer pivot.

This all sounds a little time consuming but I bore the .750 holes in the back of the dowels for as many as I intend coring ahead of time so that when I do the coring it takes way less than a minute to mount, align, turn on the air and start boring. I usually use a bearing mounted steady rest and that takes way less than a minute to slide in place and put in the dowel. Even just doing one the set up time is not much more than a minute which includes mounting the steady rest, boring a starter hole and then mounting and aligning the drill.

I core nearly every cue that I've built for at least the last 10 years using this same set up. If I'm coring a dowel that has not been tapered yet then I don't use the steady rest but just put the dowel about half way through the appropriate collet on my collet lathe.

Dick
 
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Thanks Dick, I will try that next time. I was using my dial guage and making it a lot more difficult than it had to be.
 
rhncue said:
I bore a .750 hole in the back of the dowel around .500 to 1.0 deep. I then mount the drill onto the tool post locking the holder to the tool post but leaving the tool post loose so that it can pivot. I then move my cross slide out to close to the appropriate distance so that I can start the drill, without the air coupling in place, into the bored hole in the tenon. I then bring the tail stock forward with a dead center in place and by moving the cross slide back and forth until the center is aligned perfectly to the inside of the brass male air hose coupler that is in the back of the drill protruding from the mount. I then just tighten the tool post to tool holder so that it can no longer pivot.

This all sounds a little time consuming but I bore the .750 holes in the back of the dowels for as many as I intend coring ahead of time so that when I do the coring it takes way less than a minute to mount, align, turn on the air and start boring. I usually use a bearing mounted steady rest and that takes way less than a minute to slide in place and put in the dowel. Even just doing one the set up time is not much more than a minute which includes mounting the steady rest, boring a starter hole and then mounting and aligning the drill.

I core nearly every cue that I've built for at least the last 10 years using this same set up. If I'm coring a dowel that has not been tapered yet then I don't use the steady rest but just put the dowel about half way through the appropriate collet on my collet lathe.

Dick
Click to expand...

I like your method to.
My initial way was to aline the centers on the bores with a dead center
mounted in the headstock and fine tune from there.
In beforehand I had used my dial calipers to make sure that the drill moved
100% true along the bad (i.e the QCTP was 100% parallel to the bed).
It has worked for me but I'll try your method when I have the air hose
went mounted in the back of the drill:thumbup2:

I have however run in to a little strange situation.
Yesterday evening I did my first real test coring with the gun drilled discussed
here :http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=164077&page=2

The whole thing went fine until I got like 100mm in to the forarm where the
drill started wandering around a little bit.
After some head-scratching :scratchhead: it struck me that the my lathe is
pretty much to big.... The dowel never makes it through the head stock to
be fixed in the back chuck so the dowel is only held in the front using my
large chuck.
Could this judgement be correct or do you all also core with the dowel only
held in one chuck ?
I guess my solution would be to make a beefy steady rest to hold the dowels
at a distance from the headstock - on the bed ....

Also,I made a very small but effective dust control for coring :

Just make a plastic tube with a OD larger than the dowel.
Hold it using your normal steady rest and at the end have a 90´ knee bend
which has a hole large enough (in the knee/bend it self) for the OD of the gun-drill.
The drill goes inside the plastic tube and in to the wood which is covered by
the larger plastic tube. You need to see ? Make a transparent channel of some
plexiglass or something..
Hook up your dust control to the 90´knee/bend - and hit all the magic switches
for your machines and you save your body some of the exposure and you save
your machines....

Kent
 
Newton said:
I like your method to.
My initial way was to aline the centers on the bores with a dead center
mounted in the headstock and fine tune from there.
In beforehand I had used my dial calipers to make sure that the drill moved
100% true along the bad (i.e the QCTP was 100% parallel to the bed).
It has worked for me but I'll try your method when I have the air hose
went mounted in the back of the drill:thumbup2:

I have however run in to a little strange situation.
Yesterday evening I did my first real test coring with the gun drilled discussed
here :http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=164077&page=2

The whole thing went fine until I got like 100mm in to the forarm where the
drill started wandering around a little bit.
After some head-scratching :scratchhead: it struck me that the my lathe is
pretty much to big.... The dowel never makes it through the head stock to
be fixed in the back chuck so the dowel is only held in the front using my
large chuck.
Could this judgement be correct or do you all also core with the dowel only
held in one chuck ?
I guess my solution would be to make a beefy steady rest to hold the dowels
at a distance from the headstock - on the bed ....

Also,I made a very small but effective dust control for coring :

Just make a plastic tube with a OD larger than the dowel.
Hold it using your normal steady rest and at the end have a 90´ knee bend
which has a hole large enough (in the knee/bend it self) for the OD of the gun-drill.
The drill goes inside the plastic tube and in to the wood which is covered by
the larger plastic tube. You need to see ? Make a transparent channel of some
plexiglass or something..
Hook up your dust control to the 90´knee/bend - and hit all the magic switches
for your machines and you save your body some of the exposure and you save
your machines....

Kent
Click to expand...

Has anyone ever tried to glue up your forearm (points ) then bore the center out. or do you bore when it is still oversize, but i guess the points would run out if the hole wasnt dead on center. just thinking out loud, been thinking about getting a gun but havnt yet.
 
Newton said:
I like your method to.
My initial way was to aline the centers on the bores with a dead center
mounted in the headstock and fine tune from there.
In beforehand I had used my dial calipers to make sure that the drill moved
100% true along the bad (i.e the QCTP was 100% parallel to the bed).
It has worked for me but I'll try your method when I have the air hose
went mounted in the back of the drill:thumbup2:

I have however run in to a little strange situation.
Yesterday evening I did my first real test coring with the gun drilled discussed
here :http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=164077&page=2

The whole thing went fine until I got like 100mm in to the forarm where the
drill started wandering around a little bit.
After some head-scratching :scratchhead: it struck me that the my lathe is
pretty much to big.... The dowel never makes it through the head stock to
be fixed in the back chuck so the dowel is only held in the front using my
large chuck.
Could this judgement be correct or do you all also core with the dowel only
held in one chuck ?
I guess my solution would be to make a beefy steady rest to hold the dowels
at a distance from the headstock - on the bed ....

Also,I made a very small but effective dust control for coring :

Just make a plastic tube with a OD larger than the dowel.
Hold it using your normal steady rest and at the end have a 90´ knee bend
which has a hole large enough (in the knee/bend it self) for the OD of the gun-drill.
The drill goes inside the plastic tube and in to the wood which is covered by
the larger plastic tube. You need to see ? Make a transparent channel of some
plexiglass or something..
Hook up your dust control to the 90´knee/bend - and hit all the magic switches
for your machines and you save your body some of the exposure and you save
your machines....

Kent
Click to expand...

Get a piece of Delrin(12+inches or so 1.25 OD or bigger) and turn a 60 on the end so you have a dead center. You can now slide this through spindle and chuck it up, connecting it effectively to your workpiece center.
 
pescadoman said:
Get a piece of Delrin(12+inches or so 1.25 OD or bigger) and turn a 60 on the end so you have a dead center. You can now slide this through spindle and chuck it up, connecting it effectively to your workpiece center.
Click to expand...


That's a good idea. Plenty of POM in the shop so that I'll try.
Hopefully it would reduce the vibrations and solve the equation :thumbup2:

Kent
 
Kent,

I don't think your problem is the material moving. The bit you have is a deep hole boring bit, but it is not a gun drill.

Gundrills have a precision ground section that extends for as much as an inch behind the cutting edge. That 3/4 round section guides the drill from the hole that is already drilled. That is why you have to bore a starter hole or use a fixed drill guide to get it started. This guide section of the gundrill is what keeps it from wandering too much.

I hate to say it, but I don't think you will have much success with that drill as it has no guide section.

Sorry for the bad news Kent, but it is what it is!

Royce Bunnell
www.obcues.com
 
RBC said:
Kent,

I don't think your problem is the material moving. The bit you have is a deep hole boring bit, but it is not a gun drill.

Gundrills have a precision ground section that extends for as much as an inch behind the cutting edge. That 3/4 round section guides the drill from the hole that is already drilled. That is why you have to bore a starter hole or use a fixed drill guide to get it started. This guide section of the gundrill is what keeps it from wandering too much.

I hate to say it, but I don't think you will have much success with that drill as it has no guide section.

Sorry for the bad news Kent, but it is what it is!

Royce Bunnell
www.obcues.com
Click to expand...

Thanks Royce,

No problem if the whole thing don't work out, I'm aloud to hand it back and
trade it for the regular ones which all of you use.
I made a starter hole and the whole thing went fine as mentioned.
I'll measure the guide section in the front. I know, it's not as nice as the normal
ones, but heck, these are used in the industry every day so I'll give it a couple
of rounds and see how it goes.

My idea was really to skip the grind/re-sharp of the "normal" ones, since
I'm horrible on that... I like just to change the tip and get a new one.

How often do you have to re-sharp/grind these ?

Anyway, I'll do another check on a new pice of wood .

Something is in the mail for you :wink:

Kent
 
RBC said:
Kent,

I don't think your problem is the material moving. The bit you have is a deep hole boring bit, but it is not a gun drill.

Gundrills have a precision ground section that extends for as much as an inch behind the cutting edge. That 3/4 round section guides the drill from the hole that is already drilled. That is why you have to bore a starter hole or use a fixed drill guide to get it started. This guide section of the gundrill is what keeps it from wandering too much.

I hate to say it, but I don't think you will have much success with that drill as it has no guide section.

Sorry for the bad news Kent, but it is what it is!

Royce Bunnell
www.obcues.com
Click to expand...

I missed the part where he is using the index type boring bar....stabilizing the part couldn't hurt though.
 
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