A gun drill and holder disagree and the solution

pescadoman

pescadoman

Randy
Silver Member
Well I bought a few gun drills, but not of them fit in my Phase 2 holder(maybe the whole China/USA manufacturer animosity....I don't know).

They would fit roughly half way then seem to hit a proud spot in the holder(wasn't obvious by looking through).

I put the drill in the lathe and polished it with some 120 emery which helped, but it still didn't fit all the way.

Put the holder in the darn oven at 350 for about 30 mins and the drill in the freezer between some food.......fit in easily.

No, it doesn't come out easy, but I'll buy another holder for the other drills.
 
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pescadoman said:
Well I bought a few gun drills, but not of them fit in my Phase 2 holder(maybe the whole China/USA manufacturer animosity....I don't know).

They would fit roughly have way then seem to hit a proud spot in the holder(wasn't obvious by looking through).

I put the drill in the lathe and polished it with some 120 emery which helped, but it still didn't fit all the way.

Put the holder in the darn over at 350 for about 30 mins and the drill in the freezer between some food.......fit in easily.

No, it doesn't come out easy, but I'll buy another holder for the other drills.
Click to expand...

What is a darn over? :smile:

Good job.
Kelly
 
Darn over....apiecost...????????????
Is this a canadian thing??:grin:

The first question I have is are any of the gundrills built with a MT taper shank? This would possibly explain this issue. Use a caliper and check the end of the shank, then the begining of it and compare. If it is a MT taper, then you could chuck it up and cut a straight shank out of it, or use it in your tailstock either straight up, or with a MT taper adaptor if the taper doesn't match. Hope this helps
Dave
 
Dave38 said:
Darn over....apiecost...????????????
Is this a canadian thing??:grin:

The first question I have is are any of the gundrills built with a MT taper shank? This would possibly explain this issue. Use a caliper and check the end of the shank, then the begining of it and compare. If it is a MT taper, then you could chuck it up and cut a straight shank out of it, or use it in your tailstock either straight up, or with a MT taper adaptor if the taper doesn't match. Hope this helps
Dave
Click to expand...

I believe you can order them any way you like. I ordered mine for 1 inch holder and the air entering from the rear. The drill mic'd at 1.00 from front to rear and the emery probably removed at least a few thou. I don't have inside mics at my disposal.
 
I modified this one myself. Total investment $38.bucks plus my labor. I chucked up in lathe turned the base down and drilled a hole in side welded on a fitting for air, pluged hole in end ,and it works graet. I have done 3 like this and saved a lot of money. Jim


MVC-015F-3.jpg
 
Jim,

I order mine very similar.

I ask for a 5/8" shank with a side air driver. I just use a 5/8" drill chuck in the tail stock to mount it. I usually take an air fitting and cut it down and rethread it to fit the gun drill.

I just plug a quick disconnect air hose to it. I usually put a ball valve in the air line to turn on the air.

Royce Bunnell
www.obcues.com
 
Dave38 said:
Darn over....apiecost...????????????
Is this a canadian thing??:grin:

The first question I have is are any of the gundrills built with a MT taper shank? This would possibly explain this issue. Use a caliper and check the end of the shank, then the begining of it and compare. If it is a MT taper, then you could chuck it up and cut a straight shank out of it, or use it in your tailstock either straight up, or with a MT taper adaptor if the taper doesn't match. Hope this helps
Dave
Click to expand...

I have a straight shank mounted on heavy aloris knockoff boring bar holders.
I don't like the ones that mount on the drill chuck.
I like the air to be at the end so I can use a quick connector and line that up to a dead center when I lock up the compound.
 
JoeyInCali said:
I have a straight shank mounted on heavy aloris knockoff boring bar holders.
I don't like the ones that mount on the drill chuck.
I like the air to be at the end so I can use a quick connector and line that up to a dead center when I lock up the compound.
Click to expand...

Mine is the same way. Then if your autofeed is set slow enough, you just have to engage it and then watch it work. No moving the tailstock.

Jim, I'm not sure about a side mount air input, but my 20" drill with air on the end, straight shank, .680 dia. with shipping was $135 if I remember correctly. I ordered straight from Sterling Gun Drill in Vermont.
 
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Joey I understand!

Mine are a little different. Much smaller in diameter, and quite a bit longer.

I don't use the carriage to feed them. We put them in the tailstock and feed them by hand. It just goes allot quicker.

Royce Bunnell
www.obcues.com
 
Dave38 said:
Mine is the same way. Then if your autofeed is set slow enough, you just have to engage it and then watch it work. No moving the tailstock.

Jim, I'm not sure about a side mount air input, but my 20" drill with air on the end, straight shank, .680 dia. with shipping was $135 if I remember correctly. I ordered straight from Sterling Gun Drill in Vermont.
Click to expand...

Thanks Dave. I have a HT and feed by hand. .670 works Great. But thanks for the info. jim
 
pescadoman said:
Well I bought a few gun drills, but not of them fit in my Phase 2 holder(maybe the whole China/USA manufacturer animosity....I don't know).

They would fit roughly half way then seem to hit a proud spot in the holder(wasn't obvious by looking through).

I put the drill in the lathe and polished it with some 120 emery which helped, but it still didn't fit all the way.

Put the holder in the darn oven at 350 for about 30 mins and the drill in the freezer between some food.......fit in easily.

No, it doesn't come out easy, but I'll buy another holder for the other drills.
Click to expand...


I had my Gun drills specially made, they fit in the chuck in the tail stock of my lathe, didn't know there was another way, sounds like alot of trouble.
 
Jim Baxter said:
I modified this one myself. Total investment $38.bucks plus my labor. I chucked up in lathe turned the base down and drilled a hole in side welded on a fitting for air, pluged hole in end ,and it works graet. I have done 3 like this and saved a lot of money. Jim


MVC-015F-3.jpg
Click to expand...

Mine are very similar Jim, but they cost a little more money:( Your rig looks real good to me!!!:)
 
manwon said:
I had my Gun drills specially made, they fit in the chuck in the tail stock of my lathe, didn't know there was another way, sounds like alot of trouble.
Click to expand...

I have only done one so far. I simply drilled a 5/8 pilot a couple inches deep and then used it for lining up the drill. I was surprised when it came out of the exact center on the other end...well, because it is me...
 
gun drill

Mine is identical as Joey describes in his post. Very easy to mount, align and operate. Takes no more than a minute and then the lathes power feed does the rest.

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DSC_0005-4.jpg


Dick
 
I had my gundrill milled on the back end so it would fit in a quick change holder. I agree with the previous post regarding auto feed vs tailstock, set the spindle and feed speeds, put the air to it and do something else for 4 minutes while it makes a hole. Mark

Mark Smith Custom Cues
Russellville, Arkansas
479-970-0056
 
when i ordered mine from sterling they ased do i want tailstock or toolpost style. i chose tailstock. i figured with the time it took me to put it in and line it up i can just move my tailstock and i know its perfect.

i paid like $120 shipped for mine with the air minus the quick release air connector which was about 3$
 
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