Wood glue

josie said:
I never thought of using 5 min epoxy for veneers. I guess my thought would be the veneers and point stock glue up are only as good as their weakest link. I don't think I would want to glue points in with 5 min epoxy but I don't have any proof of why. How do you feel about 5 min or 30 min epoxy for gluing in points?

Thanks for the input.
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5 minute epoxy isn't good for anything construction wise, It doesn't penetrate and is not good for long term bonding. Just my opinion. You should add an email to your signature, Never know who might want to help without posting in the forum. Just a suggestion.
 
dave sutton said:
The only thing I've ever used 5 min epoxy for is ferrules. Now I also use poly glue. Cleaner lines
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I agree about the 5-minute not holding up. I used to use West-Systems G-10 but had a butt cap and a couple of shaft deco-rings come loose and now just use for ferrules. I don't thread most of my ferrules so the quicker glue is needed so as not to tie up the machine for hours and I've had no problems so far.

Dick
 
dave sutton said:
I used to use titebond 2 then I switched to a poly glue called elmers ulitmate. It's just like gorilla glue. The advantage to the poly glues are they are not water based so your veneers won't warp or curl up after you take them out of the press. The disadvantage to epoxy is some colors will bleed into the others so you need to seal them. The heat causes this. No bleeding with wood glue or poly glue. I do use 30 min epoxy for inner point and veneers into foream. However I've seen poly glue used there bit I haven't tried it yet.

So all these glues will work but here's your disadvantages.
1 epoxy with cause bleeding
2 wood glue causes curling or wavy veneers
3 poly has no effects.


Hope this helps.
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Don't the poly glues need moisture to activate? Do you moisten the veneers before glue up or do they bond fine without moistening?

Thanks for the tips.
 
rhncue said:
I agree about the 5-minute not holding up. I used to use West-Systems G-10 but had a butt cap and a couple of shaft deco-rings come loose and now just use for ferrules. I don't thread most of my ferrules so the quicker glue is needed so as not to tie up the machine for hours and I've had no problems so far.

Dick
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Hah!!! All of these years with no problems and this evening I had a phone call that some guys will be coming to the shop tomorrow afternoon to get a half dozen tips installed plus he said that he has a shaft that I made and the ferrule is making a clicking noise and he believes may be loose.

I normally use LBM for ferrules but have become very disenchanted with what has become available to cue makers the last few years. There is just to little melamine in the formula so that the stuff is porous. I do believe that I've installed my last one. Last night I put ferrules on three shafts that I'm building for two new cues and I used a different material. I bought these ready made and they come threaded so I now will be using either white glue or yellow glue for installation in the future.

Dick
 
i haven't done any points or veneers,but i can comment on "wood glue being stronger than epoxy"

if we are talking about the good slow setting type epoxy such as West then wood glue doesn't even come close.it is probably in the 5 minute ball park.the West or other laminating slow setting epoxies are much stronger than wood glue or poly glue.

from talking to a few guys who i respect and admire their work and getting opinions,pros and cons,i know that when i start the pointed and veneered cues i will be using epoxy on mine with out a doubt.
 
masonh said:
i haven't done any points or veneers,but i can comment on "wood glue being stronger than epoxy"

if we are talking about the good slow setting type epoxy such as West then wood glue doesn't even come close.it is probably in the 5 minute ball park.the West or other laminating slow setting epoxies are much stronger than wood glue or poly glue.

from talking to a few guys who i respect and admire their work and getting opinions,pros and cons,i know that when i start the pointed and veneered cues i will be using epoxy on mine with out a doubt.
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I agree. West System epoxy is what I use and have never had a problem. Wood glues may be strong enough but this is one area of cue construction that there is no such thing as overkill. It can't be to strong plus there are a couple of other benefits epoxy delivers that wood glue does not.

Dick
 
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