I like this idea alot

[Fatboy]

http://www.blackboarcustomcues.com/howto/default.asp?CTID=46&IID=


there is a series of 6 pictures look at 1 and 6, the parts of the joints and the forarm threaded ready for a SS joint be fitted on respectivally.


Looking at it again it looks like a ton of work but worth the effort if a cue maker is tooled up to do the work.


Here are a few reasons why, I have awalys perfered the hit of a metal joint over anything, (a SouthWest style big pin wood to wood is my second favorite). But I like the look of Ivory on some cues but I dont recall meeting a cue yet with a ivory joint that I ever fell in love with, Had a few weekend flings with a sexy ivory joint:grin-square:, but nothing I would settle down with. With this approach to joint construction you get the ivory look and SS feel-I like that my cake and eating it too:smile:.

On a more technickle(dont ya love the spelling?? :wink level there are a few other possibilities like being able to make very slight weight adjustments to the cue up front, I am aware that the position of the bolt at the A joint can be adjusted back and forth and that makes a big difference, I was talking to Lomax about that the other day, we were conpairing a couple cues he made talking about balance points of cues and their respective feel/hit. Its possible to use alot of steel and a thinner pieve of ivory to duplicate the steel joint weight or close to it all the way down to what a ivory joint weighs and all combinations inbetween. I know if the ivory is too thin its prone to crack etc.(I dont want to get that technickle here)



I just think this is a interesting way to really tune up a cue for top players who might notice such small nueances in their cues.

It does look like a lot of work. Seems I have seen a feew cue makers recently doing this, I dont know if its for cosmetics or fine tuning the weight distribution in the cue they are making-Thats whats cool about this it has 2 pruposes. And with all the leaps in artistic things we have seen this past 18 months in cues, some other guys are going to go the engeenering route to promoye their sales.


the next 5 years in cue making will make anything buikt in the last 10 years look like a relic-mark my words, i'm excited. My hats off to all cue makers, Qhwn I get on my feet again I'm going to buy some cues from makers I havent in the past-just to support them.

best

Eric or Fatboy :smile:

 

[Big-Tattoo]

Hey Fatty, send me new Pics from your Back
What makes the Case???
Ralf

 

[Fatboy]

sorry about the double post above I cant seem to get it fixed, the edit function is confused or I am


I'm curious about you cue makers out there-whats your opinion on this??? I dont want to start a pissing contest-nobody wins. I'm not in the cue market right now, I just am seeing a pole of new ideas comming to life on so many levels and this one especially caught my attention. 25 years ago I had a McD "D" series with a implex joint I hated itm so I went to SS, Lovedd the feel but not the look, this has been on my mind for years. Thus my interest in opinions here

thanks in advance

eric

 

[rhncue]

sorry about the double post above I cant seem to get it fixed, the edit function is confused or I am


I'm curious about you cue makers out there-whats your opinion on this??? I dont want to start a pissing contest-nobody wins. I'm not in the cue market right now, I just am seeing a pole of new ideas comming to life on so many levels and this one especially caught my attention. 25 years ago I had a McD "D" series with a implex joint I hated itm so I went to SS, Lovedd the feel but not the look, this has been on my mind for years. Thus my interest in opinions here

thanks in advance

eric

I understand that this is very similar to the way Dennis Searing does his ivory joints but I believe he threads the ivory onto the stainless however I could be mistaken.

Dick

 

[Michael Webb]

Lots of changes over the years for sure. I also like Mr. Tascarella's idea of a metal insert for the pilot on his ivory jointed cues so he can still achieve his compression fit.

 

[tattoo]

ERIC YOU SUCK....lol....i for some reason have never been on tonys site.....:speechless: i cant even explain the amount of drool i had to clean up after 45 minutes of crusining this site....i dont even know what to say.....thanks for the link.....mickey carroll

 

[cueman]

It is a way to get the Ivory look and stainless hit. That much metal and that thin of Ivory looks to me like it is begging for trouble. But I may be guilty of over building at times. Ivory is very sensitive to heat and cold. There are many things I have seen done that my first thought was that could cause a problem, that never actually caused many problems. So if it is working for Tony then it is great and his design would give you the look you want with the hit you want.

 

[qbilder]

I have been doing a similar joint for a while except i'm using phenolic. I sleeve the ivory over phenolic, leaving a phenolic ledge on the outside that creates the joint face. This relieves the ivory from any stress or impact. I have done it without the phenolic ledge, too, and it's also fine. The ivory is actually very thin walled when the cue is cut to size, only about .020" i'm guestimating. Odd thing is that since I have been doing this, I have had zero issues with ivory cracking. I'm using fossil ivory, fossil bone, elephant ivory, etc & it's working out very well. I have a hunch that the materials are similar to wood, both organic, and taking out the core relieves internal stress and enhances stability. Just a thought, though.

I'm pretty excited about modern cuemaking. The last several years has seen lots of advances in enginuity and execution. Even the most simple traditional style cues are a marvel of engineering. I agree that cues in 5 years from now will make cues of the past look elementary.

 

[JoeyInCali]

It is a way to get the Ivory look and stainless hit. That much metal and that thin of Ivory looks to me like it is begging for trouble. But I may be guilty of over building at times. Ivory is very sensitive to heat and cold. There are many things I have seen done that my first thought was that could cause a problem, that never actually caused many problems. So if it is working for Tony then it is great and his design would give you the look you want with the hit you want.

That looks scary to me.

IF G-10 came in white, I'd use a ton of it.

 

[josie]

I have been doing a similar joint for a while except i'm using phenolic. I sleeve the ivory over phenolic, leaving a phenolic ledge on the outside that creates the joint face. This relieves the ivory from any stress or impact. I have done it without the phenolic ledge, too, and it's also fine. The ivory is actually very thin walled when the cue is cut to size, only about .020" i'm guestimating. Odd thing is that since I have been doing this, I have had zero issues with ivory cracking. I'm using fossil ivory, fossil bone, elephant ivory, etc & it's working out very well. I have a hunch that the materials are similar to wood, both organic, and taking out the core relieves internal stress and enhances stability. Just a thought, though.

I'm pretty excited about modern cuemaking. The last several years has seen lots of advances in enginuity and execution. Even the most simple traditional style cues are a marvel of engineering. I agree that cues in 5 years from now will make cues of the past look elementary.

Hey Eric, when you say you are sleeving it does that mean you are not threading it. Do you thread the phenolic to the forearm? The reason I ask is I like this idea but do not have threading capabilities.

 

[vasilios]

I will pass on that joint configuration.

bill

 

[hangemhigh]

We sleeve our piloted Ivory joints, and do something special to get our s/s piloted joints to play like our Ivory jointed cues.

Having the look of Ivory with the feel of s/s can be accomplished in several ways, with some examples seen here, but I rarely have it requested. You still need to be able to incorporate it while retaining your brand of hit. I believe you have more latitude in weight adjustment with your pin at the joint than sleeved or solid joints. How you achieve the perfect balance is what is most important.

The future is bright, possibilities are limitless, and I know I am looking forward to what that future holds for cue making.

 

[qbilder]

Hey Eric, when you say you are sleeving it does that mean you are not threading it. Do you thread the phenolic to the forearm? The reason I ask is I like this idea but do not have threading capabilities.

No threading. I sleeve the ivory over the phenolic, then sleeve the phenolic on to the cue. I quit threading parts on several years ago. I only thread steel & delrin.

 

[Fatboy]

Having the look of Ivory with the feel of s/s can be accomplished in several ways, with some examples seen here, but I rarely have it requested. You still need to be able to incorporate it while retaining your brand of hit. I believe you have more latitude in weight adjustment with your pin at the joint than sleeved or solid joints. How you achieve the perfect balance is what is most important.

The future is bright, possibilities are limitless, and I know I am looking forward to what that future holds for cue making.

IMO this is the best possible way and then it allows for a compression fit of the shaft(until you keep the cue in Vegas and the Shaft dries out). When I go to LA I keep the JP's off and it takes a week to two for the compression fit to come back. Its amazing how much wood moves. I have noticed on the Bushkas with the Compression fit it dosent change between vegas or LA-probably because the wood is much older.

The joint on the $ cues are great, they wont move and the tollerances are super tight, nothing wrong with them.