who is setup to do a fullslpice w/venners

gwjackal

gwjackal

Paradigm Cue Sports
Silver Member
I am wanting to get a new cue built and I am unsure who all my choices are for who is capable of do fullsplice cues. I only need the fullsplce to be of forearm length with the base of the point about an in or so above the a-joint.

Any help is pre thanked...

Jackal
 
A. Prather
B. Mark Bear
C. Eddie Prewitt
D. Jerry Rauenzauhn

Between those choices I would think you could definitely find what you're looking for. Prather being my first choice, you can provide the wood, or let them use their own wood and choose any combination, but be prepared to pay a fair amount.
 
SK Custom Cues said:
A. Prather
B. Mark Bear
C. Eddie Prewitt
D. Jerry Rauenzauhn

Between those choices I would think you could definitely find what you're looking for. Prather being my first choice, you can provide the wood, or let them use their own wood and choose any combination, but be prepared to pay a fair amount.
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You forget Joel Hercek and I believe Chris Hightower in there also.

Dick
 
rhncue said:
You forget Joel Hercek and I believe Chris Hightower in there also.

Dick
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Ah, yes. Hercek. I although Chris definitely can get the job done, I remember him saying in one of his DVD's that he has someone else do that for him....

Actually, after re-reading the original post, it sounds to me that the OP is wanting a half-splice forearm, not a full length fullsplice.
 
What's the difference in a half slpice and full splice?

Yes it would be for just the forearm. But I want that conversion look with both top and bottom points, kinda like the blackcreek tommie1351 had up for sale I little bit ago.

If my terminology is wrong please correct me. I do not want recuts though...

Thanks greg
 
FWIW- Travis (Blackcreek) is making his own Full Splice w/veneers! Last I heard they were not for sale to other cuemakers, only in Blackcreek cues!

Zim
 
A half splice is a forearm blank with V-Grooves cut into it and points spliced into those V-Grooves.

A full splice is where the handle and forearm are truly spliced together into each other as two separate pieces of wood as you see in house cues. The picture I have posted are examples of two 'four-point-four-veneer' half splice blanks.
 

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Here is a nice half splice that I took a picture of on a recent trip to a somewhat known cuemaker :thumbup: I seen some of his veneer work and I have to say, he does an excellent job
 

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So I did not have a brain fart. Yes a true full splice is what I am wanting! Just long enough so I can use it for a forearm.

Zim - I heaard the same thing and will more than likely be going that route. Just curious who else is doing full splice work. Most anyone should be able to do a half splice just some far better than others.
 
Travis can definitely make you what you want, but John Davis is not one to overlook..... I hope you find what you're looking for. Good Luck.

Look at this thread
 
SK Custom Cues said:
Travis can definitely make you what you want, but John Davis is not one to overlook..... I hope you find what you're looking for. Good Luck.

Look at this thread
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Thanks and call me sometime anytime is fine it looks like you do some good point work yourself. Numbers below....
 
gwjackal said:
So I did not have a brain fart. Yes a true full splice is what I am wanting! Just long enough so I can use it for a forearm.

Zim - I heaard the same thing and will more than likely be going that route. Just curious who else is doing full splice work. Most anyone should be able to do a half splice just some far better than others.
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Ah yes, the ongoing fullsplice/half-splice semantics minefield:)

What you want could be described as a "fullsplice, short length"
or "fullsplice, half-length" rather than a full length fullsplice.

What most people mean when they use the term "half-splice"
<like the ones in the pics> are not spliced at all. But the result
is just the same as if you took a fullsplice and cut it in half
at the backend of the spliced part...sorta.

Dale<who still things true-splice is a better term than fullsplice>
 
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This one would just be for looks but who knows. I want to have both ends of the "splice" in the forearm. No recuts for the veneers and even points top and bottom the longer the better, like from just below the joint to just above the handle!
 
gwjackal said:
This one would just be for looks but who knows. I want to have both ends of the "splice" in the forearm. No recuts for the veneers and even points top and bottom the longer the better, like from just below the joint to just above the handle!
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Davis blanks are the only ones "i've seen" where the points bottom out near the A-joint. Prather and the others who do alot of the wrapless full splice cues go way lower...the prong wood exposure in relation to the points is around 6-8 inches "between the joint and the tops of the points". Davis blanks have around 2 inches.
 
Sung, I just had a brilliant idea. You can modify your Torro into a CNC shaft cutting machine. Think it might work?
 
Man, that ain't a bad idea..... Actually, sitting next to it is a floor burnisher. I could do a two in one.....

:lmao::lmao::dance::rotflmao1::rotflmao1::rotflmao::killingme::killingme::killingme:

Blue Hog ridr said:
Sung, I just had a brilliant idea. You can modify your Torro into a CNC shaft cutting machine. Think it might work?
Click to expand...
 
gwjackal said:
Thanks and call me sometime anytime is fine it looks like you do some good point work yourself. Numbers below....
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Sir, I respectfully decline. I am not to be compared to the likes of Travis Niklich, Darrin Hill, Keith Josey, or any of the above listed....... I just started making cues..... maybe in the future, I can accommodate. Sorry to disappoint, I just wanted to help steer you in the right direction.
 
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