Close pores on shaft

weiru

99% Luck, 1% Skill
Silver Member
my shaft feels woody.. like the wood pores are not closed. so there is a feeling of rough wood.. how do i close the shaft's pores??
 
Sounds like you need help from your friendly neighborhood cue repair person. Take it in and they will fix it up in a jiffy, usually while you wait.
Some of the higher end repair facilities have waiting rooms with big screen tv's, complimentary coffee with sweet rolls, and valet service. Most, however, don't. :)
 
my shaft feels woody.. like the wood pores are not closed. so there is a feeling of rough wood.. how do i close the shaft's pores??

From what I just read in a previous thread, it's possible you can rub the shaft with Blue Diamond chalk. It's very abrasive and it doesn't wear down, the residue will fill the remaining pores.
 
From what I just read in a previous thread, it's possible you can rub the shaft with Blue Diamond chalk. It's very abrasive and it doesn't wear down, the residue will fill the remaining pores.

wouldn't the shaft be blueish ?

anw, if i use the tiger shaft cleaner or q-wiz , q clean. will it help?
 
wouldn't the shaft be blueish ?

anw, if i use the tiger shaft cleaner or q-wiz , q clean. will it help?

Weiru, I am sorry, you haven't read the Blue Diamond thread. Please disregard my post.

Seriously, when I have this issue, I use a q-wiz, I don't use any other cleaners. Personally I think a modest amount of skin oil and dirt help the shaft.
 
From what I just read in a previous thread, it's possible you can rub the shaft with Blue Diamond chalk. It's very abrasive and it doesn't wear down, the residue will fill the remaining pores.

That's awesome. :rotflmao1:

OP, read the thread on the blue diamond chalk, you'll get what he's saying...
 
Raising of the grain sometimes happens to me when I get too much moisture on it when I wipe with a paper towel...
some fine sandpaper will do you fine- IIRC, 1500grit is good (1200??).

I like to do a little pledge too, heating it up with a dry paper towel after spraying. Some people vote no on that, but I have been happy with my rod.
 
isn't this why people burnish their shafts... you can use whatever you like... a thick piece of brown paper bag, a leather burnishing strip, a new crisp $1 bill. at least, that's what i've read.
 
Please don't use sand paper. I have been repairing cues for years and this will only put flat spots on your shaft. The problem is you will never keep a shaft concentric if it is not spinning between centers on a lathe. A leather burnisher works great if you don't have a lathe. If it is still to ruff for your liking rub some bees wax on it after you have gotten the shaft warm with the leather. This will fill in the pores. Then you can wipe the excess off with a paper towel. Other wise take it to a repair man. Hope this helps.
 
Take it to your local cue repair man. He'll clean it, seal it, wax it, and send you on your way in 20 minutes as happy as can be for about $20.
 
Take it to your local cue repair man. He'll clean it, seal it, wax it, and send you on your way in 20 minutes as happy as can be for about $20.

Not to derail the thread, but I've got a question about this. The problem area with my shaft is the last five inches or so. It seems no matter how hard I try to keep my hands and the shaft clean, the last five inches or so end up getting dirty to the point of disrupting my stroke because of its friction on my bridge hand. I had the cue waxed and sealed by a professional cue maker, but after a few days, the roughness began to come back. Is there anything else I can do to help seal my shaft for a longer period of time?
 
Not to derail the thread, but I've got a question about this. The problem area with my shaft is the last five inches or so. It seems no matter how hard I try to keep my hands and the shaft clean, the last five inches or so end up getting dirty to the point of disrupting my stroke because of its friction on my bridge hand. I had the cue waxed and sealed by a professional cue maker, but after a few days, the roughness began to come back. Is there anything else I can do to help seal my shaft for a longer period of time?

This is likely because this is the area that you are holding your cue at when not at the table. Even tho you may not realize that you are sweating, you may be everso slightly. If your sweat contains a more acidic ph level, it will raise the grain slightly...enough that it is noticeable to you. Unfortunately, even if you get this area burnish out well, it will eventually do it again, simply because some of that acidity is still trapped within the pores...I had a shaft do the same thing, only at the top where I would hold it to chalk. My solution was to clean the shaft with Magic Eraser.

Here is a really great thread on how to clean and condition shafts:
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=188985

The best way to avoid this problem in the future is to wash your hands religiously after every couple of games or so. It has worked out well for me.

Lisa
 
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