How to improve this frame???

Donny Wessels

Donny Wessels

New member
Silver Member
I have a pool hall full of these tables. I'm having a hard time fine tuning the level because of the undersized frame. When pounding in the wedge the frame block will move down. I thought about using shims instead of wedges but I don't think that will solve the problem. I looking for a way to improve the frame that will only cost the house a couple hundred bucks and will give the frame the stability to hold a good level. Any ideas? here a pict.

IMG_20101105_080228.jpg
 
i would try flat shims and not knowing what kind of tables they are how bout wedges from the inside out instead of outside in.
 
table

Maybe out rigger supports from the main support beams in the area where needed, like the later GC has...
Jim has a good idea too..
-
Rob.M
 
A good idea, but from the picture, it doesn't look like you could get up there to wedge from the inside, as far out as the backing is on the block. I think you would still have the same problem once you got deep enough with the wedge to do anything.

Would you be able to reinforce it with some stiff pieces of angle iron cut to length?
 
sdbilliards said:
I have a pool hall full of these tables. I'm having a hard time fine tuning the level because of the undersized frame. When pounding in the wedge the frame block will move down. I thought about using shims instead of wedges but I don't think that will solve the problem. I looking for a way to improve the frame that will only cost the house a couple hundred bucks and will give the frame the stability to hold a good level. Any ideas? here a pict.

IMG_20101105_080228.jpg
Click to expand...

Hi Donny,
Ever think about using 2" leg angle iron? 1/8 or 3/16" thickness would be easy enough to drill onsite and you can get it cheap at a steel shop. Make sure to go to a medium to larger distributor as they sell in quantity cheaply. Might spend a buck a foot.. Not sure what size the table is but you can probably use less than 30ft per table and get some good wedge points. Let me know what you come up with..
Rob
www.tabletek.net
 
TableTek said:
Hi Donny,
Ever think about using 2" leg angle iron? 1/8 or 3/16" thickness would be easy enough to drill onsite and you can get it cheap at a steel shop. Make sure to go to a medium to larger distributor as they sell in quantity cheaply. Might spend a buck a foot.. Not sure what size the table is but you can probably use less than 30ft per table and get some good wedge points. Let me know what you come up with..
Rob
www.tabletek.net
Click to expand...

I thought about that, but I cant compromise the cosmetics of this table.
 
Having a little trouble with your pic.
Possibly a metal corner bracket on the inside to offset the block from moving down on the outside.
Something like this -
picture.php
 
Dartman said:
Having a little trouble with your pic.
Possibly a metal corner bracket on the inside to offset the block from moving down on the outside.
Something like this -
picture.php
Click to expand...

I thought about something like this, but routing out the block so the iron wouldn't stick above the frame and switching to a bolt and nut.

I also thought about making the slate liner larger, cutting the blocks back and bringing the slate screws into the playing field.
 
sdbilliards said:
I thought about something like this, but routing out the block so the iron wouldn't stick above the frame and switching to a bolt and nut.

I also thought about making the slate liner larger, cutting the blocks back and bringing the slate screws into the playing field.
Click to expand...

From what I see in the pic there's clearance between the frame/slate so I wouldn't think routing out the block would be necessary as the bracket would end in front of the liner and not go under it. You could also add a wide liner so it rests on the frame and then level with wedges/shims there instead of on the block but still use the blocks for the slate screws. If you had a pic of the top with the slate piece off could help the guys suggest other alternatives.
 
sdbilliards said:
I thought about that, but I cant compromise the cosmetics of this table.
Click to expand...

What do the blinds look like? How long are they? Hard to see exactly what you are dealing with. Is the wedge tipping upward when if hits the point where the slate liner ends?
 
This is a good question Donny...I'm waiting for more suggestions before I say anything...the fix is actually simple;)
 
realkingcobra said:
This is a good question Donny...I'm waiting for more suggestions before I say anything...the fix is actually simple;)
Click to expand...

Did I just pull an OTLB?????????....I'm sorry, I didn't mean to;) the answer Donny is in understanding what A.E. Schmidt did to the table to create this problem in the first place...and that was in order to avoid the conflict with the leather drop pockets and the frame of the table sharing the same space...they shortened the frame of the table then extended the cleats that the slate screws mount to to screw the slates down...only problem is...they didn't extend the backing on the slates to overlap the frame of the table as to move the weight of the slates to directly above the frame side panels....and off the extended frame cleats.

All you have to do is cut some 1x4"s to length, and slide them into place between the side panel frame and the slates from the inside of the frame of the table...essentially extending the backing of the slates to support them on top of the frame panels. Hold the 1x4"s in place with some 3/4" x 6" long blocking stapled to the new backing and the inside frame of the side panels. Now....you can shim as you'd normally do...between the slate backing and the frame;)
 
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