Lower Deflection Combos with Lightest Ferrule Material?

GrimmCustomCues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Can anyone tell me what the lightest ferrule material is? I'm experimenting a little bit with some maple shafts. Differences between 11.75mm and 12.75mm, lighter ferrules and no ferrules, short and long ferrules, etc. From everything I've read, the smaller shaft diameter with no ferrule will give me the least amount of deflection on a maple shaft but I'm curious to see how it feels. I'm assuming I'd need a fiber pad, carbon fiber pad or something between the tip and shaft for a little protection, possibly 1/16" sliver of linen ferrule? Maybe drilling out the end of the shaft and filling it with something lighter than wood as they do in many LD shafts. Any input would be appreciated.


Richard
 
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Experimenting is the best advice I could give you seeing everyone has a difference of opinion. I put a lot of time into different ferrules and tapers and how they played, I found what works best for me and the options I wanted to offer. Others, chose to copy what Black Boar did and just eliminate the ferrule all together. As for putting a hole in the front of the shaft, they started experimenting with that thought in the 1950's in Canada. Just my opinion and probably doesn't help you.
 
Experimenting is the best advice I could give you seeing everyone has a difference of opinion. I put a lot of time into different ferrules and tapers and how they played, I found what works best for me and the options I wanted to offer. Others, chose to copy what Black Boar did and just eliminate the ferrule all together. As for putting a hole in the front of the shaft, they started experimenting with that thought in the 1950's in Canada. Just my opinion and probably doesn't help you.

Thanks, Appreciate the comment. I kind of figured experimenting was my best plan. I'm not one to copy someone else, but we are talking about a shaft and tip and there is only so many ways to install them. I think the shaft wood will make quite a difference too so experimenting with that might get pricey, guess I have to do it though. LOL

Richard
 
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Thanks, Appreciate the comment. I kind of figured experimenting was my best plan. I'm not one to copy someone else, but we are talking about a shaft and tip and there is only so many ways to install them. I think the shaft wood will make quite a difference too so experimenting with that might get pricey, guess I have to do it though. LOL

Richard


It does get pricey. Took me a couple of years off and on to come up with what I wanted.
 
Can anyone tell me what the lightest ferrule material is? I'm experimenting a little bit with some maple shafts. Differences between 11.75mm and 12.75mm, lighter ferrules and no ferrules, short and long ferrules, etc. From everything I've read, the smaller shaft diameter with no ferrule will give me the least amount of deflection on a maple shaft but I'm curious to see how it feels. I'm assuming I'd need a fiber pad, carbon fiber pad or something between the tip and shaft for a little protection, possibly 1/16" sliver of linen ferrule? Maybe drilling out the end of the shaft and filling it with something lighter than wood as they do in many LD shafts. Any input would be appreciated.


Richard
That's what reject shafts are for. The ones at 13MM now and have run-outs.
EXPERIMENTAL SHAFTS.
I've done tons of them.
Short ferrule, uncapped ferrules, 3/8 16 threads, 3/8 24, 5/16 24, undesized 3/8 or metric tenons. Ivor-X, Juma, Melamine, Fiber and other ferrules.
Hell, not to mention different glues and epoxies for ferrules.
There isn't much discovery without experimentation.
 
That's what reject shafts are for. The ones at 13MM now and have run-outs.
EXPERIMENTAL SHAFTS.
I've done tons of them.
Short ferrule, uncapped ferrules, 3/8 16 threads, 3/8 24, 5/16 24, undesized 3/8 or metric tenons. Ivor-X, Juma, Melamine, Fiber and other ferrules.
Hell, not to mention different glues and epoxies for ferrules.
There isn't much discovery without experimentation.

Good point!

Richard
 
Experimenting is the best advice I could give you seeing everyone has a difference of opinion. I put a lot of time into different ferrules and tapers and how they played, I found what works best for me and the options I wanted to offer. Others, chose to copy what Black Boar did and just eliminate the ferrule all together. As for putting a hole in the front of the shaft, they started experimenting with that thought in the 1950's in Canada. Just my opinion and probably doesn't help you.

Michael, the ferrule-less shaft was not invented by Tony @ BB, so inferring "others" chose to copy the design is incorrect. I spent over a year alone in the development of my ferrule-less shaft, hard work, trial and error.
 
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Michael, the ferrule-less shaft was not invented by Tony @ BB, so inferring "others" chose to copy the design is incorrect. I spent over a year alone in the development of my ferrule-less shaft, hard work, trial and error. Such flippant comments should not be used by the uninformed.

My apologies, I don't talk to everyone just a few. I was also told 5 minutes ago that Brunswick at the turn of the Century offered cues where a ferrule was optional.
 
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This statement is so true. I have been making cues for a couple years now and I have jumped around quite a bit. I am experimenting with Juma right now and it is pretty cool.

I am an ivory man and just recently, I got some of that Micarta from Percy and it hits sooooo sweet. It has a unique hit all of its own, and I like it better than ivory at the moment. Who knows, it may change later down the road, but also Prather has this stuff called LB White and I personally think it is the best hitting material out there when it comes to the inexpensive stuff. Inexpensive compared to ivory or micarta, that is.

You just never know until you try it for a while.

I wish there was a sticky up somewhere that explained the word subjective and what it is exactly, as well as the word 'The Best' and what that means from one person to the next.

That's what reject shafts are for. The ones at 13MM now and have run-outs.
EXPERIMENTAL SHAFTS.
I've done tons of them.
Short ferrule, uncapped ferrules, 3/8 16 threads, 3/8 24, 5/16 24, undesized 3/8 or metric tenons. Ivor-X, Juma, Melamine, Fiber and other ferrules.
Hell, not to mention different glues and epoxies for ferrules.
There isn't much discovery without experimentation.
 
This statement is so true. I have been making cues for a couple years now and I have jumped around quite a bit. I am experimenting with Juma right now and it is pretty cool.

I am an ivory man and just recently, I got some of that Micarta from Percy and it hits sooooo sweet. It has a unique hit all of its own, and I like it better than ivory at the moment. Who knows, it may change later down the road, but also Prather has this stuff called LB White and I personally think it is the best hitting material out there when it comes to the inexpensive stuff. Inexpensive compared to ivory or micarta, that is.

You just never know until you try it for a while.

I wish there was a sticky up somewhere that explained the word subjective and what it is exactly, as well as the word 'The Best' and what that means from one person to the next.


It's right in the sub folder section that was asked for.:rolleyes:
 
My apologies, I don't talk to everyone just a few. I was also told 5 minutes ago that Brunswick at the turn of the Century offered cues where a ferrule was optional.

As far as I know, this is correct. A ferrule was introduced in order to keep the shafts from splitting. I have hit with many ferrule less shafts and they do hit quite nice. Jim Oswald at Billiards N Bagels was a big fan of the hit and had some old cues from the 19th century with no ferrules on them originally and lots of old catalogs and cutouts of old billiard stuff. A really old ferrule less one piece cue with an ebony splice in the shaft had the most amazing hit/feel.
 
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