Pics of my first recover and cushion replacement Brunswick Kling

matteroner

matteroner

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Thanks to AZ I was able to redo what someone else could not. Had some fun but it was a lot of work....

here are some pics ....I tried to use everything I learned on AZ to get this done....thanks to everyone who contributes to this site ...


obviously it's not perfect ....and I want to say that I will eventually probably re-do the rails again ...i just want a little more perfect job on that part ...forgot to get pics of the facings but they are 1/4" 60 durometer neoprene that i got on amazon ....

hanger strap for the pockets actually came out nicer than in the pics ....

pockets are 4.5" which I am happy with ....no need for subrail extensions ....

simonis 860 camel is the cloth .....

stapled the bed .....to scared to use glue on my first go ....

oh and that's an 18" machinist level ....it was $30 on ebay .... i really wanted a smaller one but that was cheapest one I could get .....

used RKC's guide to do the slates
 

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also I bought a little air belt sander from harbor freight for $20 ....worked great ....very loud though ....made easy work of the cushions and facings ...
 

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That is a beautiful table. You should be very proud of yourself. The Starrett 98-18 on top of a carpenters level is usually used to level the frame. The carpenters level can span over a sagged slate. Giving a false level. This is just my oppinion. Again, Great work!:thumbup:
 
PoolTable911 said:
That is a beautiful table. You should be very proud of yourself. The Starrett 98-18 on top of a carpenters level is usually used to level the frame. The carpenters level can span over a sagged slate. Giving a false level. This is just my oppinion. Again, Great work!:thumbup:
Click to expand...

thank you ....

yeah I just used RKC's system ....i did not use the carpenters when I got to the advanced leveling part ...it was just too long ....

the advanced leveling pulls the sag from the individual slates ....but before that he says you are looking for a "precise average" ......so ....

I think it was pretty damn level ....i couldn't get a ball to roll anywhere on the table without the cloth ....and I know that is not a valid test ...but it sure made me confident that the table was at least as level as the balls were spherical .

overall it took me 1.5 hours to level the frame and 4 hours to level the slate ....i put everything I had into every part of this thing...


I would say the hardest part was stretching the cloth on the T-rails ....it just is hard and that is all there is to say.



i would also say that I got a little hung up on the drawing of chalk marks on the slate ....i just drew them on the diagram in the manual and then used it that way ...i felt no need to put that on the slate ....but how you want to point them etc ...got me hung up until i realized why I was writing down the numbers then it made sense ....hard to explain why I had so much trouble there but I didn't want to miss something and then have to re-do the job.

table ended up being pretty fast ....it take about 8.5 seconds to rebound on a lag shot (http://www.sfbilliards.com/articles/1995-04.pdf) for those of you who haven't seen that article on table speed ....seems like a good way to judge the combo of cloth and cushion speed.
 
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table

looks like you made great a effort.....did you read in posts about the monarch cushions on the old Brunswick tables? :eek: measure your noise height of the cushion with a quality adjustable machinist square
>>whats it measure?
-
rob.m
 
dontlitethat said:
looks like you made great a effort.....did you read in posts about the monarch cushions on the old Brunswick tables? :eek: measure your noise height of the cushion with a quality adjustable machinist square
>>whats it measure?
-
rob.m
Click to expand...

nose height is 1 15/32 ....slightly high but I put the cushions at the top of the setting strip ....next time I re-cloth I will set them to the bottom of the strip ....

I know what you are getting at, however, ....here is what brunswick THEMSELVES had to say on the matter....

"K-66 profile cushion rubber should be used to replace the Monarch on your Kling table. The K-55 profile was not used until about 1960.
Marv"


table field is 50 x 100 ......

i don't know why but it just seems that everything worked out fine ...
 
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matteroner said:
nose height is 1 15/32 ....slightly high but I put the cushions at the top of the setting strip ....next time I re-cloth I will set them to the bottom of the strip ....

I know what you are getting at, however, ....here is what brunswick THEMSELVES had to say on the matter....

"K-66 profile cushion rubber should be used to replace the Monarch on your Kling table. The K-55 profile was not used until about 1960.
Marv"


table field is 50 x 100 ......

i don't know why but it just seems that everything worked out fine ...
Click to expand...
That would be correct, unless you have the tooling and training...stick with what works best:grin: Glad my instructions helped you out buddy...good job!...see...it's not all that hard to do:grin::grin:
 
it was hard ...but it was fun and I learned a lot of things that will probably come in handy some day......

I'm almost a little sad that I don't have a table to work on now ....but now I guess I have time to improve my game.....


thanks again to everyone here at AZB ...
 
dam, that table is beautiful... i'm so jealous its not even funny.
i had to erase what i typed 3 times lol.
 
Mr. Bond said:
Speaking of Kling - just in case yall havent seen this before...

Where the name "Kling" came from (post #25) : http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=191765&page=2

Kling's room full of Klings: http://www.chicagobilliardmuseum.org/images/50_Klings.jpg
Click to expand...

great info ....amazing that those were all 6 legged beasts maybe even 10 footers ....I almost like the 4 leg one better because the lines down the side are not disrupted ...

I will try to post some more pics later ...
 
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