Wood Handle????

poolhalljnkie

poolhalljnkie

House cue conversionist
Silver Member
I am wanting to have a cue built & have a couple of questions. I want a wrapless cue with a snakewood butt & snakewood points. I would like to stay away from a wrap, but if I go with a wood handle I dont want the C & D ringwork look so here are my questions

1) Can a cue be built (correctly as far as structure & integrity) with a wood handle without the C & D ringwork & without looking odd or wrong where it comes together?

The only snakewood I have seen on cues are points or inlays & sometimes buttcaps, is this because you just cant get big pieces of snakewood (never seen a snakewood tree so not sure how it is milled) or because it is expensive.

2) Is it a wood that you could actually have a sneaky style full splice Snakewood into maple??

Any help would be appreciated, Thanks
 
it is prone to cracking and very expensive so cue makers don't use big pieces as a general rule,but i have seen it done with mixed results.
 
poolhalljnkie said:
I am wanting to have a cue built & have a couple of questions. I want a wrapless cue with a snakewood butt & snakewood points. I would like to stay away from a wrap, but if I go with a wood handle I dont want the C & D ringwork look so here are my questions

1) Can a cue be built (correctly as far as structure & integrity) with a wood handle without the C & D ringwork & without looking odd or wrong where it comes together?

The only snakewood I have seen on cues are points or inlays & sometimes buttcaps, is this because you just cant get big pieces of snakewood (never seen a snakewood tree so not sure how it is milled) or because it is expensive.

2) Is it a wood that you could actually have a sneaky style full splice Snakewood into maple??

Any help would be appreciated, Thanks
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1. Yes you can put a cue together without rings. The end surfaces of the wood need to be soaked in epoxy in order to prevent future buzzes and such in the cue.

2. Snakewood is prone to giving problems like cracking and is really heavy. So to do a true full splice with snakewood would be very expensive and is just a bad idea all the way around. I have had to stop selling snakewood to some because they think I should replace it if it cracks while they are coring it. Snakewood is a hard wood to work with, and since it is so expensive it is not worth the risk.
 
Thanks for the answers so far, I believe I am over the full splice Snakewood cue, just think how pretty a full splice Snakewood Sneaky into Curly Maple would be..........

As for the wrapless cue with no ringwork, Im thinking Snakewood butt, Snakewood points with 2 veneers (maple, black) in a curly maple forearm & an Ebony handle, Ivory Hoppe ring & black bumperless buttcap, Im just trying to picture the ebony handle against the snakewood butt & points with no ringwork.

Chris, cuebuilding has been on my mind for about 5 yrs now, I have watched your videos, Barringers videos over & over & over again. About 2 years ago, Willee invited me down to Corpus to learn some things & possible get help building my own cue, & at one point was talking to Jim Griffin of Nowela Cues about purchasing his entire shop, equipment & all. Reading hour & hours of forums I know I really need to start in cue repair first, I guess I need to get with you about some equipment, I've heard nothing but great things about your lathes, I just need to make up my mind & take the leap forward.
 
poolhalljnkie said:
1) Can a cue be built (correctly as far as structure & integrity) with a wood handle without the C & D ringwork & without looking odd or wrong where it comes together?
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Something like this

picture.php


Welcome to the addiction. I see we will have another new builder in the DFW area

Larry
 
Is something like this what you are looking for? If so, PM me.

Thanks,
Alan
 

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Larry: I dont know if or when I will be DFW's next Cue Maker, Of course $$ is always an issue & right now Im renting a place so space is a major issue, but one day I hope to get on that list in the "Whats the best hitting cue for $1200-$1500" Thread :thumbup:

Alan: That is a good looking cue, I actually think it may look all right with the ringwork at C & D. And if it cuts out the future "buzzing & other sounds" that Chris mentioned then Im all for that also.

Thank you both for the pictures & if anybody has any other cues with ebony handles against points, I would love to see them.
 
DD Custom Cues said:
This guy has a snakewood cue for sale right now. http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=227623
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Hi,

I have had great success with 2 half spliced snakewood forearms. I think they did not crack as I cored them with gorilla glue before cutting the point grooves. Anyone who orders snakewood must be told about the potential for cracking at their own risk.

The pieces I have used were hanging in my shop for over 5 years. And yes they were very expensive.

Good Luck,

Rick
 
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A fullsplice snakewood cue is no problem with right builder. Would certainly present some challenges, but is doable. Short splice with snake points and snakewood from the A to the back cap would be a little less of a challenge.
 
Thanks for the replys everyone, that Bender is SIC....A lot of good examples,

What I am wanting is snakewood points, a snakewood butt, & an ebony handle, my concern was the ringwork at C & D & if it would look strange without them.... bein a wood handle instead of a wrap. I have seen some examples & spoke with a cue maker last night that showed me that it looks great & is still structurally sound WITHOUT the ringwork.
 
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