Bar tables!

stlerdave

stlerdave

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Got a chance to buy 3 bar tables 2-7' valleys and one with a falcon or some type of bird on corners where valley has cougar logo anyone know what type? 2 tables need refelted and maybe new rails. Any idea on value. Can be bought for $250 for all 3. I'm doing it seems like a valley in bad shape can be fixed and resold for a profit.:thumbup:
 
got them in my garage but no keys where do i get keys? 1 is the eagle table. 2 are valley
 
Keys

stlerdave said:
got them in my garage but no keys where do i get keys? 1 is the eagle table. 2 are valley
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If the previous owners don't have the keys, the cheapest way is to drill them and replace the locks. Some of them you might be able to get at from the inside and take them apart. Locks are cheaper than Locksmiths:)
 
If you take the rails off and slate out, you should be able to get to the backs of all the locks to take them out without drilling. It will be a TON easier that way.
 
One of the three will need new felt and rails it will be the test dummy! I will attempt to take it apart, any warning for a rookie? They have some stains also any way to get them out?
 
The taking apart was very easy. Never thought so much shit gets dropped into a pool table from a bar. It all went well no table was harmed in this event! Now time to learn how to recover these babies. :thumbup:
 
any mechanics have a checklist of how they take care of barbox tables, want to fix them right. Thanks
 
stlerdave said:
any mechanics have a checklist of how they take care of barbox tables, want to fix them right. Thanks
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Make sure:

The cloth is on tight and even.

The base of the table is level and the slate is shimmed if necessary to prevent sagging

The corner castings are all tight.

The tracks are cleaned out of any debris and wiped down. (I also vaccuum out the body of the table)

The coin mechs are in good, smooth working order.

All pocket liners are securely attached with no nails sticking out.

All rail rubber is securely bonded to the rail with no loose spots.

All rail inserts are clean with no bad threads.

All rail bolts are clean with no bad threads and are straight.

Rails sit at the proper height from the slate bed.

If possible, rails are flush to the top of the frame of the table.

Balls, tracks, top rails, etc. are all cleaned of any glue residue.

Cue ball return works properly, returning balls to their respective places.


Well, I think that about covers it. I know that's a lot to consider, but if the table is well maintained, it really doesn't take long to check all that and keep it up each time the table is recovered, and it will help keep the table playing as good as possible.
 
Thats Josh, that will help big time. Also in your opinion what is the best felt for a barbox. These are stained so bad need replaced. :thumbup:
 
stlerdave said:
Thats Josh, that will help big time. Also in your opinion what is the best felt for a barbox. These are stained so bad need replaced. :thumbup:
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Simonis 860 HR is a good long-wearing cloth that, if I understood correctly, was developed for bar box play, so if you want the best, I'd go with it.

There are also some lower priced alternatives, like Mercury Ultra, Championship Invitational, Mali Hydra, and others. Those are lower priced, but are going to wear faster and play slower, so you may pay less up front, but you'll probably be recovering more often.
 
I have been told that before so it will be what I do on my table as for the others I will wait til I see what I am going to do with them.
Seems like about the same build on these tables, Valley or Great American? Great American seems to have a more solid frame but if you were going to keep one what would it be? Me, I'd keep a Valley but just going on name alone. Both seem to be about same only Great american has a steel supports and Valley seem to be aluminum.
 
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