Buzz Ring

seahorse1877

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Just curious. I see alot of " in-progress " pics and I see different sized buzz rings. Just wondering if there are any differences in the different lengths. I understand a buzz ring is to keep from glueing two endgrains together but will a ring of .125" work just as well as a ring that is 1.0"?
 
.015 should work the same as 1". The idea is not to glue endgrain to endgrain.
 
.015 should work the same as 1". The idea is not to glue endgrain to endgrain.

When would you ever be gluing end grain to end grain? At the joints? If its at the joints doesnt the strength of the joint come from the tenon?

Chris
 
When would you ever be gluing end grain to end grain? At the joints? If its at the joints doesnt the strength of the joint come from the tenon?

Chris

Hi,

I thought the buzz ring was to provide a space to make sure that the top of the tenon was not bottomed in the hole so the glue would fill the gap. And also to act like a material buffer between the two end grains like a fiber pad on a ferrule.

Maybe I am wrong. Where is Chris Hightower when your need him for a point of clarification.

Not so sure now.:scratchhead:

Rick
 
I always thought the buzz ring was incorrectly named. Why wouldn't you call it an anti-buzz ring?

Things that make you go Hmmmmmm,
Alan
 
When would you ever be gluing end grain to end grain? At the joints? If its at the joints doesnt the strength of the joint come from the tenon?

Chris

Most of the strength comes from the tenon, but when you glue end grain to end grain, you'll have a certain amount of wicking action where the end grain sucks in the adhesive and leaves the joint a little dry, or at least having less glue than desired at this critical point. This can cause a buzz in that area. As far as the short buzz ring, I would think that it needs to be longer where possible. This way you'll have more gluing surface on the inside of the buzz ring at the tenon making it more secure. JMHO

Sherm
 
Most of the strength comes from the tenon, but when you glue end grain to end grain, you'll have a certain amount of wicking action where the end grain sucks in the adhesive and leaves the joint a little dry, or at least having less glue than desired at this critical point. This can cause a buzz in that area. As far as the short buzz ring, I would think that it needs to be longer where possible. This way you'll have more gluing surface on the inside of the buzz ring at the tenon making it more secure. JMHO

Sherm

Sherm - just to make sure I have this right, the buzz ring is internal. Positioned at the end of the tenon?

Chris
 
Sherm - just to make sure I have this right, the buzz ring is internal. Positioned at the end of the tenon?

Chris

No. It's at the other end of the tenon sometimes covered up by the wrap, sometimes incorporated in the deco rings above the wrap, below the forearm.
 
I always thought the buzz ring was incorrectly named. Why wouldn't you call it an anti-buzz ring?

Things that make you go Hmmmmmm,
Alan

I've often thought the same thing but I just went along with the flow.
 
Ummm . . . if the endgrain wicks away glue (no matter what kind) and I'm sure it does, installing a (non)buzz ring in between the handle and the forearm doesn't stop the wicking.

I have only (up to this point) made one piece butts, but I'm REAL interested in this topic.

Is there something else going on?

Just wondering,

Gary
 
Ummm . . . if the endgrain wicks away glue (no matter what kind) and I'm sure it does, installing a (non)buzz ring in between the handle and the forearm doesn't stop the wicking.

I have only (up to this point) made one piece butts, but I'm REAL interested in this topic.

Is there something else going on?

Just wondering,

Gary

True Gary but with the anti-Buzz ring, you only have one end grain surface at each joint making it less likely to wick away enough glue to cause problems than when you have both sides of the joint wicking.

Sherm
 
What causes the buzz when glue is no longer present at a joint is the result of the end grain from both pieces of wood rubbing together from the vibrations resulting from the contact of the tip to the ball. It is like a bow causing a violin to make a tone or a grasshoppers legs creating a sound. A ring separates these fibers from contacting each other.

Dick
 
What causes the buzz when glue is no longer present at a joint is the result of the end grain from both pieces of wood rubbing together from the vibrations resulting from the contact of the tip to the ball. It is like a bow causing a violin to make a tone or a grasshoppers legs creating a sound. A ring separates these fibers from contacting each other.

Dick

Cavalry to the rescue. Thanks Dick, I knew how to avoid the buzz but did not understand the physics.

I appreciate your description and point of clarification.

Rick G
 
Any phenolic or even fiber ring will seperate the endgrain. Even one thats 1/16 thick.. that doesn't mean it will feel as good as a thicker ring but I build mostly wrapless cues so sometimes a 1 inch ring is not possible
..now how do you guys join a joint with no ring...lol.
 
Is this pehenomenon present in wood to wood cues. IE a predator sneaky pete with no joint collars? Why isn't this buzz desirable as it seems it would lend itself to a better feeling cue? Id think the phenolic would have an adverse effect on the travel of vibration. (wish I knew the right words to use!)

Chris

What causes the buzz when glue is no longer present at a joint is the result of the end grain from both pieces of wood rubbing together from the vibrations resulting from the contact of the tip to the ball. It is like a bow causing a violin to make a tone or a grasshoppers legs creating a sound. A ring separates these fibers from contacting each other.

Dick
 
I join end grains in cues all the time, without a buzz ring. I cover the surfaces with epoxy, let them sit for a minute or so, letting the glue soak into the wood pores. Then, I reapply glue, as needed, and assemble.
 
I join end grains in cues all the time, without a buzz ring. I cover the surfaces with epoxy, let them sit for a minute or so, letting the glue soak into the wood pores. Then, I reapply glue, as needed, and assemble.

i dont use a buzzring everytime either, i typically seal the end grain with thin and med cyno then face it off lightly so that the poeres of the wood are filled, and you get a really nice glueing surface.

ive played with cues before that had a buzz ring and buzzed i think its all technique and luck sometimes no matter what you do theres a stuborn cue that just wont go your way.
 
i dont use a buzzring everytime either, i typically seal the end grain with thin and med cyno then face it off lightly so that the poeres of the wood are filled, and you get a really nice glueing surface.

I do the same thing but with epoxy. Works fine for me.
 
i dont use a buzzring everytime either, i typically seal the end grain with thin and med cyno then face it off lightly so that the poeres of the wood are filled, and you get a really nice glueing surface.

ive played with cues before that had a buzz ring and buzzed i think its all technique and luck sometimes no matter what you do theres a stuborn cue that just wont go your way.

I've seen way too many cues with buzz rings rattle. Including a Bushka.
When he was around, the epoxy used then were not even close to what we have now .
I put a little angle on the faces so when they mate there is some epoxy in there.
I score the mouth of the handle with a triangle file too.
 
Back
Top