Same way but with no ring. I do it on every cue. I have tried a buzz ring a time or two but have never took it out of experimental phase. I found it to be unnecessary, at least in my cues. Clean, square joint faces that lock tightly together, dead centered tenon that fits smoothly but not tightly, and the connecting screw whether part of the tenon wood or a metal screw, all are necessary for a joint that won't buzz. Cues that don't assemble with zero wobble at the "A" joint, and cues where there is some type of internal stress at the joint from something being slightly off, will almost certainly acquire a buzz. Cues that go together solid, straight, centerline, will almost never acquire a buzz. Basically, if your machining isn't dead on, you'll have troubles. If your machining is sound then you have very little to ever worry about.
Buzz Ring
- Thread starter seahorse1877
- Start date
Same way but with no ring. I do it on every cue. I have tried a buzz ring a time or two but have never took it out of experimental phase. I found it to be unnecessary, at least in my cues. Clean, square joint faces that lock tightly together, dead centered tenon that fits smoothly but not tightly, and the connecting screw whether part of the tenon wood or a metal screw, all are necessary for a joint that won't buzz. Cues that don't assemble with zero wobble at the "A" joint, and cues where there is some type of internal stress at the joint from something being slightly off, will almost certainly acquire a buzz. Cues that go together solid, straight, centerline, will almost never acquire a buzz. Basically, if your machining isn't dead on, you'll have troubles. If your machining is sound then you have very little to ever worry about.
Eric,
I agree. On my 4 pointers where I form the A-Joint with the dowel and later slip on core parts aft of the A- Joint, I glue the joint and tighten very hard. Because I am the paranoid type, I always fill the forearm pocket and paint the dowel end with slow cure for a while to soak before I make the closure.
Collets that I taper bore to fit my Cue's geometry at the A-Joint assembly dimension makes sure that I get a concentric bore and true facing, thus no wobble.
Two of my beta cues came up with a buzz 6 years ago and when I read your post something rang clear. At the time before my tapered collets I was getting some wobble at the A-Joint between centers on the lathe after assembly when I was trying to taper the butt.:banghead:
The lesson learned here is concentric precision stepped machined pockets & threads for the bolt and proper facing makes perfect sense for preventing the buzz.
Rick Geschrey
The Black Tapered Collets for precision boring and tapping helped me to attain spot on concentricity relative to A-Joints, Pin Installs and butt cap machine details.
The white Delrin Split style collet shown here is now kept in a box of junk in my shop.
Last edited:
......................
Last edited:
I agree. I was kind of pokeing fun at everyone who says you have to have a ring or the cue will buzz. You are right on the money. I like to use thin ca to seal the endgrain then take a very thin facing cut. I use thicker glues to prevent the wicking effect. If the a joint doesn't spin true I don't asemble it until it does. These are not things I found out the hard way but from the advice of more experienced cue makers. Now I am hard headed and have stubbornly tried things that a certain cue maker here told me wouldn't work......he has usually been right:embarrassed2:.
removed..........
Last edited:
My bad.
Let me think if it's even worth posting.
I'll get bombarded with PM's where and how to get the tools.
Worse, how to use them.