Replacement for KJ's arbor?

[pescadoman]

I'd like to suggest that, if you do another run of arbors, a larger ID for a larger blade be used.

The original blade works if I cut my stock down on larger pieces, but I just bought so .500 ID 1.375 OD linen and the blade won't work with that.

I think I'll make my own, but IMO a blade with another .5-.75 OD would make life so much easier...

 

[BHQ]

I'd like to suggest that, if you do another run of arbors, a larger ID for a larger blade be used.

randy, check my post above, ebay link
they have larger diameter blades, 40mm & 50mm x 8mm arbor hole
you can also turn some off the arbor/bolt for more depth
if i remember correctly, i turned off a total of .100
i can get thru linen @ 1.29 with the standard 30mm diameter blade that came from kj


The original blade works if I cut my stock down on larger pieces, but I just bought so .500 ID 1.375 OD linen and the blade won't work with that.

I think I'll make my own, but IMO a blade with another .5-.75 OD would make life so much easier...

...........................

 

[KJ Cues]

Please allow me to add some clarity here which may help in addressing some of your questions.
I chose the 30mm OD saw for a reason. It has an 8mm ID. 8mm is within a few thou. of 5/16" (.3125").
The next larger saw, 40mm, has an ID of 10mm or .3937". Slightly bigger than 3/8" (.375").
Going that route, you're into a totally different mandrel of greater overall size.
Would that mandrel come with a 1/4" shank? I don't know, I haven't found one.

Now let's talk mtrl. wall thickness that can be cut.
For those that don't know, I build a boat-load of Predator shafts every week.
This means that I part-off a lot of rings, either from tubing or billets.
All I really needed was a saw that would get through approx. .190" wall thickness.
I soon realized though that with a little extra machining of the mandrel, my 30mm saw
would now cut through a wall-thickness of .30".
Long story short, that's about .0125 shy of cutting through std. 1.375x.75" tubing.
This presents two obvious choices.
Either take a .020" pass on your big tubing before parting or reduce the head diameter
of the mandrel by a similar amount.

Look, you guys can buy the saws at the same price that I have to pay.
I'm at the mercy of these sellers just like you would be.
This is the same seller that Brent showed you. Here's the saw you want:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/320727579166?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

I don't want to make money by just flipping a ready-made product, then marking it up.
That's not fair to you guys and that's not how I'm geared.
I make my money doing machine work, I want to earn it.
So, I'll continue to provide custom-made mandrels and you're welcome/encouraged to get
the saw(s) bought.
If saws become available to me at a decent price, I'll certainly let you know.
Even though we've hit this minor hurdle in supply, I don't regret for one minute having
designed this tool. The damn thing is the nuts.
I'll keep looking for improvements to make on it and I greatly appreciate your comments
and suggestions. There's about 200 of these units out there and I'm honored by the names
of the CMs who have purchased these. I'm also honored that I've been allowed to make a
contribution to our craft.
Well, there were about 200 but there's now one less since Beau's mishap.

 

[BHQ]

Please allow me to add some clarity here which may help in addressing some of your questions.
I chose the 30mm OD saw for a reason. It has an 8mm ID. 8mm is within a few thou. of 5/16" (.3125").
The next larger saw, 40mm, has an ID of 10mm or .3937". Slightly bigger than 3/8" (.375").
Going that route, you're into a totally different mandrel of greater overall size.
Would that mandrel come with a 1/4" shank? I don't know, I haven't found one.

Now let's talk mtrl. wall thickness that can be cut.
For those that don't know, I build a boat-load of Predator shafts every week.
This means that I part-off a lot of rings, either from tubing or billets.
All I really needed was a saw that would get through approx. .190" wall thickness.
I soon realized though that with a little extra machining of the mandrel, my 30mm saw
would now cut through a wall-thickness of .30".
Long story short, that's about .0125 shy of cutting through std. 1.375x.75" tubing.
This presents two obvious choices.
Either take a .020" pass on your big tubing before parting or reduce the head diameter
of the mandrel by a similar amount.

Look, you guys can buy the saws at the same price that I have to pay.
I'm at the mercy of these sellers just like you would be.
This is the same seller that Brent showed you. Here's the saw you want:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/320727579166?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

I don't want to make money by just flipping a ready-made product, then marking it up.
That's not fair to you guys and that's not how I'm geared.
I make my money doing machine work, I want to earn it.
So, I'll continue to provide custom-made mandrels and you're welcome/encouraged to get
the saw(s) bought.
If saws become available to me at a decent price, I'll certainly let you know.
Even though we've hit this minor hurdle in supply, I don't regret for one minute having
designed this tool. The damn thing is the nuts.
I'll keep looking for improvements to make on it and I greatly appreciate your comments
and suggestions. There's about 200 of these units out there and I'm honored by the names
of the CMs who have purchased these. I'm also honored that I've been allowed to make a
contribution to our craft.
Well, there were about 200 but there's now one less since Beau's mishap.

oops
i didnt catch that the id of the larger diameter blade was different 10mm
didnt read the fine print
glad i didnt order any of those
sorry randy

 

[pdcue]

Hi Dale,

Sometimes people in business can buy items in bulk to get a better unit price, then sell to a niche market like cue makers. This is referred to as "economies of scale purchasing" and it is a basic business 101 principal. It has nothing to do with about not understand E Commerce via google.

Many people here, including myself have purchased saws and mandrels from KJ and like him as a straight shooter to do business with. My point is that I would rather buy from KJ than some other site if I have the choice.

Rick

Thank you Doctor explains-a-lot, perhaps you might host a
seminar on how to turn a lathe on... and off.

Dale(always learning)

 

[scdiveteam]

Thank you Doctor explains-a-lot, perhaps you might host a
seminar on how to turn a lathe on... and off.

Dale(always learning)

What's a Lathe?

 

[conetip]

Please allow me to add some clarity here which may help in addressing some of your questions.
I chose the 30mm OD saw for a reason. It has an 8mm ID. 8mm is within a few thou. of 5/16" (.3125").
The next larger saw, 40mm, has an ID of 10mm or .3937". Slightly bigger than 3/8" (.375").
Going that route, you're into a totally different mandrel of greater overall size.
Would that mandrel come with a 1/4" shank? I don't know, I haven't found one.

Another advantage of using the smaller saw is there is less for flexing and moving around.As the saw diameter to thickness gets larger, so does the chance of breaking them.