Brunswick GC II move and setup needed in Northern VA

[purpdrag]

Anyone here have any good recommendations for me?

Anyone familiar with Kevin Higgins (Pool Table Guy)? He set it up for me when I bought it and did a pretty good job but hasn't returned my phone call or email. I'm curious to know how he might compare with others.

This table is a bit more work because the leg levelers don't work and we had to do all the leveling with shims.

 

[Club Billiards]

If no one else speaks up, shoot me a PM with the locations the tables is being moved from and to and I'll shoot you a quote. We'd be coming from Dayton, Ohio though, so there would be some mileage involved.

Also, how soon do you need the table moved, and do you need it recovered at the same time?

 

[scruffy1]

I certainly can help you. Less then an hour from you.

John Burns
Classic Billiard Service
410-935-3617

Classicbilliardservice.com


Has everyone given up on recommending the mechanics directory and fellow mechs in the area? Just curious.

 

[purpdrag]

If no one else speaks up, shoot me a PM with the locations the tables is being moved from and to and I'll shoot you a quote. We'd be coming from Dayton, Ohio though, so there would be some mileage involved.

Also, how soon do you need the table moved, and do you need it recovered at the same time?

Thanks for the reply. I'll go with someone local though.

 

[purpdrag]

I certainly can help you. Less then an hour from you.

John Burns
Classic Billiard Service
410-935-3617

Classicbilliardservice.com


Has everyone given up on recommending the mechanics directory and fellow mechs in the area? Just curious.

Thanks John. I'll give you a call tomorrow.

 

[tonyboy59]

A gentleman who does my stick repairs at the "Green Room" in Baltimore recommended a table tech by the name of K. Scott Akers (410) 336-6541. According to the business card given to me it states that...he specializes in restoration, recoveries, moves and general maintenance.

Give him a call and see what he has to say...GL

 

[Club Billiards]

Didnt' realize John was in your area...Definitely give him a call. His service comes highly recommended, and from personal experience, he's a great person to deal with.

 

[Tony_in_MD]

You can't do better then John.

:thumbup:

Thanks John. I'll give you a call tomorrow.

 

[purpdrag]

A gentleman who does my stick repairs at the "Green Room" in Baltimore recommended a table tech by the name of K. Scott Akers (410) 336-6541. According to the business card given to me it states that...he specializes in restoration, recoveries, moves and general maintenance.

Give him a call and see what he has to say...GL

I appreciate the tip. Based on the latest replies I'm going to talk to John Burns first, and keep Mr. Akers as a backup in case it doesn't work out for some reason with John Burns.

 

[purpdrag]

Didnt' realize John was in your area...Definitely give him a call. His service comes highly recommended, and from personal experience, he's a great person to deal with.

This is the kind of external reference I was hoping for. Thank you for your help. I will call him today.

 

[purpdrag]

You can't do better then John.

:thumbup:

That's what I wanted to hear. Thanks Tony.

 

[purpdrag]

Thanks all. John Burns (classicbilliardservice.com) is going to move the table for me next Friday, September 2. I'll try to remember to come back here and share my feedback for the AZers.

 

[Black-Balled]

Can't go wrong w/ John!

 

[jkjerry]

I agree with the other responders to your message. John is a great guy who will do a great job for you. He's always been there for us when my wife and I have needed anything done.

Jerry

 

[scruffy1]

After caculating all the kickbacks off of this job, i will only be in the hole for about 150.00! Thank god their family!!

 

[purpdrag]

Such a busy weekend I haven't touched a computer since Thursday.

I wanted to make sure I came back and reported on the work John did for me. I couldn't be happier. The table is in better condition than I have ever seen it. The work was extremely thorough, precise, and professional. He treated the table as if it was his own. He did everything exactly how I would do it IF I had the skill and knowledge of a top professional.

I also found out it is a Gold Crown I and not a GC II. Something the last mechanic didn't even know.

I didn't know John's company had multiple crews. I would guess that all his crews are top notch, but I'm glad I mentioned there were a few extra things that needed attention on this table, because John said that was the reason he decided to work on this one himself.

I only wish we would have had time to play a few games when it was all done, but he had worked straight through from 9 AM to 2:30 PM and was overdue for lunch. I've been so busy myself I've only squeezed in 15 minutes of play time since it's been set up.

So in summary I'll have to concur with Tony: You can't do better than John.

 

[Tony_in_MD]

Did you go the full monty, and get subrail extensions?

If you get a chance, post some pics I am sure we all would love to see the table.

 

[purpdrag]

Did you go the full monty, and get subrail extensions?

If you get a chance, post some pics I am sure we all would love to see the table.

No subrail extensions, but we did replace the worn out triple shims with one piece double shims. So the pockets are a bit larger now but the edges of the pockets are all squared off nicely. The triple shims were three separate pieces that had worn out and shifted over time, resulting in a 1/4 to 1/2 inch on either side of every pocket that was 5 or 10 degrees off from the rest of the rail. Every near miss resulted in a funny kick. A bit hard to explain without drawing a picture.

I'll try to get pictures up later and if I get really ambitious I'll see if I can draw a diagram to illustrate what the pockets used to look like.

 

[Tony_in_MD]

I know what you are talking about I had a bad triple shim job on my table years ago.

No subrail extensions, but we did replace the worn out triple shims with one piece double shims. So the pockets are a bit larger now but the edges of the pockets are all squared off nicely. The triple shims were three separate pieces that had worn out and shifted over time, resulting in a 1/4 to 1/2 inch on either side of every pocket that was 5 or 10 degrees off from the rest of the rail. Every near miss resulted in a funny kick. A bit hard to explain without drawing a picture.

I'll try to get pictures up later and if I get really ambitious I'll see if I can draw a diagram to illustrate what the pockets used to look like.

 

[purpdrag]

Here are some pics and a crude drawing of the issue I had with the triple shims.