Grinding imperfections

Jodacus

Shoot...don't talk
Silver Member
What is the best method for leveling slate? Every slate has imperfections to some degree. When these extremely small "rolls" are located what is the best material and method for leveling?
 
I was actually getting ready to ask a similar question. I've come across some pretty bad ones. I know some of you have tried lapping the slate. How many of you are doing this? I haven't yet tried it, and wouldn't be able to generate that much dust in some of the locations, but I'm curious about how well the technique works and how hard it is to get even consistent results.

Also, do any of you have any experience lapping Brunstone? Any other tricks for taking out 10-15/1000 crowns in the middle of the slate where there's nothing to secure it to?
 
I was actually getting ready to ask a similar question. I've come across some pretty bad ones. I know some of you have tried lapping the slate. How many of you are doing this? I haven't yet tried it, and wouldn't be able to generate that much dust in some of the locations, but I'm curious about how well the technique works and how hard it is to get even consistent results.

Also, do any of you have any experience lapping Brunstone? Any other tricks for taking out 10-15/1000 crowns in the middle of the slate where there's nothing to secure it to?

what are you reffering to as lapping?
 
what are you reffering to as lapping?

The process is called "Blocking" or "Lapping" of the slate, it is a very accurate method used to
ensure a perfectly flat surface. Modern slate is honed with tooling. While this process may be
adequate for most players, it is not thorough enough for the serious player. Tooling becomes
worn the longer it cuts loosing efficacy over time. The stone used is milled to a ten
thousanth and is much harder than slate. The process of flattening a table involves the use of
machinist levels, a proper RELAXED state of level is achieved prior to sanding. Leveling by itself
is a much more involved and critical process than most believe. Slate can often have storage
issues such as swelling and twisting as well as an non flat surface due to a prior improper
install. Stone lapping generates less heat and mechanical stress than modern tooling. This
method properly employed can provide enjoyment and an accurate play surface for the player
who demands perfection.
 
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The process is called "Blocking" or "Lapping" of the slate, it is a very accurate method used to
ensure a perfectly flat surface. Modern slate is honed with tooling. While this process may be
adequate for most players, it is not thorough enough for the serious player. Tooling becomes
worn the longer it cuts loosing efficacy over time. The stone used is milled to a ten
thousanth and is much harder than slate. The process of flattening a table involves the use of
machinist levels, a proper RELAXED state of level is achieved prior to sanding. Leveling by itself
is a much more involved and critical process than most believe. Slate can often have storage
issues such as swelling and twisting as well as an non flat surface due to a prior improper
install. Stone lapping generates less heat and mechanical stress than modern tooling. This
method properly employed can provide enjoyment and an accurate play surface for the player
who demands perfection.

Is this done by a billiard mechanic?
 
Is this done by a billiard mechanic?

Yes it can be done by billiard mechanics. It is time consuming but can make a perfectly flat playing surface.
 

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Yes it can be done by billiard mechanics. It is time consuming but can make a perfectly flat playing surface.

I want one. Thanks for the picts. I recently had a large sanding block machined, I just started wet sanding my bondo-ed seams and plan on sanding highs and filling lows. What you have looks like it does a great job, I can clearly see the low spots that are still there:thumbup:
 
Sweet! Fred Flintstones palm sander. This could be the solution I need for my table actually, that's a tool I may be able to make.

I know this is going to sound ghetto... but I need a low $$ solution for my table. Could I possibly make one of those with a stack of granite counter top material, honing with the unpolished side? Granite is harder than slate...The countertop pieces are probably already much flatter than my table is with all it's years of abuse.

And my table is technically brunstone, if that matters. Not sure if it's harder or softer than slate...

How much does that weigh, and how long does that take for two people to flatten the worst of tables? Use it wet or dry?
 
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lapping stone?

Would you mind giving us more details on the lapping stone? Material, size, weight and grit? How much experience have you had with it? Do you get it re-ground after every table? Thanks
 
Would you mind giving us more details on the lapping stone? Material, size, weight and grit? How much experience have you had with it? Do you get it re-ground after every table? Thanks

We use a 18" x 12" x 3" granite machine plate. It weighs about 85lbs. We spray adhesive 60 grit sand paper sheets onto the bottom of the block. We have done a bunch of tables with this block method including several pool room "action" tables. You must run a vacuem when doing this because the slate dust starts to build up. The sand paper is changed when needed.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Precision-B...2?pt=BI_Tool_Work_Holding&hash=item3cb6ff198c
 
Sweet! Fred Flintstones palm sander. This could be the solution I need for my table actually, that's a tool I may be able to make.

I know this is going to sound ghetto... but I need a low $$ solution for my table. Could I possibly make one of those with a stack of granite counter top material, honing with the unpolished side? Granite is harder than slate...The countertop pieces are probably already much flatter than my table is with all it's years of abuse.

And my table is technically brunstone, if that matters. Not sure if it's harder or softer than slate...

How much does that weigh, and how long does that take for two people to flatten the worst of tables? Use it wet or dry?

We use it dry & on average you are looking at a couple hours of work.
 
Blocking works well (when done properly of course)

The process is called "Blocking" or "Lapping" of the slate, it is a very accurate method used to
ensure a perfectly flat surface. Modern slate is honed with tooling. While this process may be
adequate for most players, it is not thorough enough for the serious player. Tooling becomes
worn the longer it cuts loosing efficacy over time. The stone used is milled to a ten
thousanth and is much harder than slate. The process of flattening a table involves the use of
machinist levels, a proper RELAXED state of level is achieved prior to sanding. Leveling by itself
is a much more involved and critical process than most believe. Slate can often have storage
issues such as swelling and twisting as well as an non flat surface due to a prior improper
install. Stone lapping generates less heat and mechanical stress than modern tooling. This
method properly employed can provide enjoyment and an accurate play surface for the player
who demands perfection.



I can attest that once my "one-pocket table" was blocked a year ago, it became the most requested table at Sandcastle Billiards. I have a large collection of the best players in the state at Sandcastle Billiards. The demands and expectations involving the equipment are high here but easily satisfied. Table #1 is well known all around the area of NJ and even down to Florida. The table had custom extended rails made and installed at the same time the blocking/lapping was done. The pockets are now UNDER 4 inches and the bed of the table plays like ICE!

In the game of one-pocket, where speed and accuracy on long banks or 2 and 3 rail banks are essential, the perfect (or as close to perfect as physically possible) playing surface is of the greatest importance. My high level players are more than satisfied with the roll of table 1.

Mike Davis played on table 1 throughout the week of the World 14.1 Tournament in preparation for his matches. He immediately fell in love with the table the first time and came back for more practice time on it the week he was in town. Is it any wonder why he took 2nd place only to Thorsten Hohmann and is now the current World 14.1 Tournament runner-up?!?

All in all, the process was indeed a little time (and energy) consuming but the results and satisfaction of having a truly level playing surface are well worth it! Knowing that you can slow roll that ball to either make it or just leave it right in the jaws of your pocket with confidence each time really boosts the level of play overall.

I give it 2 thumbs up! :thumbup: :thumbup:
 
Thanks Pat, that is absolutely awesome. The coolest thing i've ever seen. I have a job in Columbus soon and will be picking one up to save the shipping.:thumbup:
 
Mark Gregory blocked the slate on my centennial and it rolls very true. It is a lot of work but well worth the effort. The slate was worn at the pockets and had high spots where a natural grain was. Not anymore. In the pictures previously posted, you can see the low spots. They are the areas that are darker grey.
 
Thanks Pat, that is absolutely awesome. The coolest thing i've ever seen. I have a job in Columbus soon and will be picking one up to save the shipping.:thumbup:

I already called them and they drop-ship them from somewhere else. I had the same thought. I wonder if we could save a couple bucks shipping if we bought 2? ;)
 
Pat,

Great post! I remember talking with you and Bob about your results when you first did Sand Castle. I also remember moving that block from the corner of Bobby's garage...Wow. Pushing that thing back and forth for two hours sounds like a work out for you young guys.

Jay
 
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