In stead of glue "escape" holes / grooves

glue slot

Here is what I do.....

I took a fine tooth hack saw blade and ground the back side off for about 4 inches on one end. This makes this area of the blade a little less than 3/8 thick. After the hole is threaded, I use the thin end of the saw to cut a slot right through one side of the threads. Just cut the threads and don't cut past the threads into the solid wood. This makes a nice place for the excess glue to escape.

I don't use an A joint because I core the whole cue but I do use this technique for joint pins. The slot is not visible when you are finished.

You must use a thin epoxy like West System or similar and screw the pin in slowly giving time for the excess glue to escape.

Kim
 
Hi guys,

After getting my cue tuning true in my lathe I step drill my hole and then ream .005 over the dia. Of my alignment barrel. I also sand my embedment threads and centering barrel down a few thou using 80 grit in the mini lathe after grinding a slight glue relief on the barrel and threads. Bob from DZ pointed out that it helps to have the embedment threads at a slightly smaller dia. That little tip took over 15 minutes off my pin install.

Now when I test fit my pin it Goes in very easy with my fingers.

When mixing up the epoxy I mix about 2 times the volume so I know the bottom of the hole behind the pin has no void.

I use Hy-sol 36 hour cure epoxy which in like thin motor oil when it hydraulics out. It wipes off very easy and does not effect or tarnish metals.

When I put the super duper dial indicator on my pin nose on the high side I can push the pin to .001 within 2 tries. I check the pin in one hour and readjust to 0 or about a quarter thou and leave it in the lathe over night.

For me I just got sick and tired of boring the tight fitting hole in wood and fighting the pin. The Hy-sol cures so hard. I filled a ferrule with it and 2 days later I smacked it with a center punch and it just left a marr. Hy-sol was approved for epoxying parts within the space scuttle and it's temp range for hi low environments is off the wall. It is the only way to go for silver stitch rings also because of the heat during parting with the carbide saw. I have made over 60 silver rings using this and have not had one fail by losing a stitch due to heat/glue issues. I have always used a cutting fluid to keep the heat down but even so I was seeing a lost stitch now and then now no more worrying abut the silver, problem gone, poof! Awesome stuff indeed.

Since using this method and materials within my pin procedure I have 100% reliability with total repeatably to less than .0005 every time with less than 15 minutes on task installing the pin. Impossible to trap air or have a hydraulic blow out.

Rick
 
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scdiveteam said:
Hi guys,

After getting my cue tuning true in my lathe I step drill my hole and then ream .005 over the dia. Of my alignment barrel. I also sand my embedment threads and centering barrel in the mini lathe after grinding a slight glue relief on the barrel and threads.

Now when I test fit my pin it Goes in very easy with my fingers.

When mixing up the epoxy I mix about 2 times the volume so I know the bottom of the hole behind the pin has no void.

I use Hy-sol 36 hour cure epoxy which in like thin motor oil when it hydraulics out. It wipes off very easy and does not effect or tarnish metals.

When I put the super duper dial indicator on my pin nose on the high side I can push the pin to .001 within 2 tries. I check the pin in one hour and readjust to 0 or about a quarter thou and leave it in the lathe over night.

For me I just got sick and tired of boring the tight fitting hole in wood and fighting the pin. The Hy-sol cures so hard. I filled a ferrule with it and 2 days later I smacked it with a center punch and it just left a marr. Hy-sol was approved for epoxying parts within the space scuttle and it's temp range for hi low environments is off the wall. It is the only way to go for silve stitch rings also. Awesome stuff indeed.

Since using this method and materials within my pin procedure I have 100% reliability with total repeatably to less than .0005 every time with less than 15 minutes on task installing the pin. Impossible to trap air or have a hydraulic blow out.

Rick
Click to expand...

Hysol E120 , Rick ?
Sounds like a great A-joint epoxy too . Thin enough for a "whick" coat then go back with a second mix, then tighten.
Thnx
 
Joe,

No, 0151

http://www.aircraftspruce.co/catalog/cmpages/loctiteHysol.php

For our application mix 1:1. They give you 2.7 times as much part b because you can make it weaker for different uses. The box the tube come in say 1:1 and the data sheet you see on line has 2.7 : 1 with a shear strenth of 1800 lbs. and the tensile str. was absent on the sheet. I did find number for the 1:1 somewhere and will look tomorrow and post. The strength was off the wall compared to other stuff.

Lee at Briannia turned me on to it 4 years ago and told me his friend Paul Motey has been doing his pins with it for years

I also use it when I do A-Joint because you can let it soak for 20 minutes in the hole before doing the deed. After about 1 hour it gets like a soft rubber. After 24 hours you still can put your finger nail into it. 48 hours it is hard as a rock when confined in a space like my ferrule test.

Rick
 
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