Break/jump tip curvature

spktur

spktur

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
As a general rule what is the curvature you use for a phenolic break/jump tip? Nickle, dime or something else?
 
I kinda thought they might need to be a little flatter. Thanks for the input.
 
Flatter the better to transfer as little English to the cue ball as possible. I go with Chris. About a quarter radius.
 
dave sutton said:
Flatter the better to transfer as little English to the cue ball as possible.
Click to expand...

I've experimented endlessly with this & I find that you simply can NOT go too flat. The flatter the tip, the bigger the sweet spot & easier to park the rock. Try it totally flat...just knock the edge off a bit. I think you'll be quite pleased.
Below is a pic of one I made to skirt the law where phen tips are banned. Notice the phenolic core is absolutely flat. Works like a charm.:thumbup:
 

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Varney Cues said:
I've experimented endlessly with this & I find that you simply can NOT go too flat. The flatter the tip, the bigger the sweet spot & easier to park the rock. Try it totally flat...just knock the edge off a bit. I think you'll be quite pleased.
Below is a pic of one I made to skirt the law where phen tips are banned. Notice the phenolic core is absolutely flat. Works like a charm.:thumbup:
Click to expand...

g10superpro0052.jpg


Good Idea
 
Thats certainly a different way of doing it Chuck. I just thread the core down through the tip into the ferrule...makes it extremely durable. I developed this method for a few pros back during the IPT events where only leather was allowed & they had to jump full cue. I often wondered if anyone was suspicious from the loud "TINK" sound from supposedly leather tips...and some way too close jumps.:grin:
I do the same with my canvas tips...I machine a tenon on the back of the tip then thread it 5/16-18 down into the ferrule. That way there is never an issue of one popping off from the side shear force from a mis-hit...you can't even break the tip off the ferrule with channel locks.
May have to try some your way....looks quite a bit easier. :thumbup:
 
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I've always thought the radius of the tip should be the same radius as the cue ball.
 
I use my jumper as a regular cue, meaning when I shoot a jump
I want to play shape too.....

Whether that means stopping the cue ball or follow or draw...
You get the idea :)
I need some shape on the tip for that...... When customers buy my jumpers, I assume they want to jump like me so I shape em up the same as my personal cue
 
cuejo said:
I use my jumper as a regular cue, meaning when I shoot a jump
I want to play shape too.....

Whether that means stopping the cue ball or follow or draw...
You get the idea :)
I need some shape on the tip for that...... When customers buy my jumpers, I assume they want to jump like me so I shape em up the same as my personal cue
Click to expand...

I have to agree with this. For a BREAK cue, flatter is better, but for a jump cue, the same radius you use on your player is what I would recommend.

This is the reason that I would never use a "jump/break" I have a "jump/break" that is used for breaking, and a "jump/break" that is a dedicated jump cue (the extension piece has been lightened to an extreme extent (forward weight and overall cue weight of 13oz)... makes for the best dedicated jump cue I have ever used.

It allows me easy "short jumps" with the short cue, and full table jumps with a full length cue that jumps like most normal jump cues... but with more accuracy
 
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