Break/jump tip curvature

[spktur]

As a general rule what is the curvature you use for a phenolic break/jump tip? Nickle, dime or something else?

 

[cueman]

On Phenolic Tips 13mm should be more like a quarter in radius.

 

[spktur]

I kinda thought they might need to be a little flatter. Thanks for the input.

 

[dave sutton]

Flatter the better to transfer as little English to the cue ball as possible. I go with Chris. About a quarter radius.

 

[cuejo]

I shape mine to a standard dime....

 

[Varney Cues]

Flatter the better to transfer as little English to the cue ball as possible.

I've experimented endlessly with this & I find that you simply can NOT go too flat. The flatter the tip, the bigger the sweet spot & easier to park the rock. Try it totally flat...just knock the edge off a bit. I think you'll be quite pleased.
Below is a pic of one I made to skirt the law where phen tips are banned. Notice the phenolic core is absolutely flat. Works like a charm.:thumbup:

 

[chuckpilegis]

I've experimented endlessly with this & I find that you simply can NOT go too flat. The flatter the tip, the bigger the sweet spot & easier to park the rock. Try it totally flat...just knock the edge off a bit. I think you'll be quite pleased.
Below is a pic of one I made to skirt the law where phen tips are banned. Notice the phenolic core is absolutely flat. Works like a charm.:thumbup:

Good Idea

 

[Varney Cues]

Thats certainly a different way of doing it Chuck. I just thread the core down through the tip into the ferrule...makes it extremely durable. I developed this method for a few pros back during the IPT events where only leather was allowed & they had to jump full cue. I often wondered if anyone was suspicious from the loud "TINK" sound from supposedly leather tips...and some way too close jumps.:grin:
I do the same with my canvas tips...I machine a tenon on the back of the tip then thread it 5/16-18 down into the ferrule. That way there is never an issue of one popping off from the side shear force from a mis-hit...you can't even break the tip off the ferrule with channel locks.
May have to try some your way....looks quite a bit easier. :thumbup:

 

[ratcues]

I've always thought the radius of the tip should be the same radius as the cue ball.

 

[Varney Cues]

I've always thought the radius of the tip should be the same radius as the cue ball.

Correct. Unless...you are wanting to strike the cueball in such a manner as to impart no spin...or as little spin as possible.

 

[cuejo]

I use my jumper as a regular cue, meaning when I shoot a jump
I want to play shape too.....

Whether that means stopping the cue ball or follow or draw...
You get the idea
I need some shape on the tip for that...... When customers buy my jumpers, I assume they want to jump like me so I shape em up the same as my personal cue

 

[nineballsafety8]

I use my jumper as a regular cue, meaning when I shoot a jump
I want to play shape too.....

Whether that means stopping the cue ball or follow or draw...
You get the idea
I need some shape on the tip for that...... When customers buy my jumpers, I assume they want to jump like me so I shape em up the same as my personal cue

I have to agree with this. For a BREAK cue, flatter is better, but for a jump cue, the same radius you use on your player is what I would recommend.

This is the reason that I would never use a "jump/break" I have a "jump/break" that is used for breaking, and a "jump/break" that is a dedicated jump cue (the extension piece has been lightened to an extreme extent (forward weight and overall cue weight of 13oz)... makes for the best dedicated jump cue I have ever used.

It allows me easy "short jumps" with the short cue, and full table jumps with a full length cue that jumps like most normal jump cues... but with more accuracy