Having some pins made

opiesbro

Big Al Customs
Silver Member
I have recently started working at a nut and bolt factory and have started talking to them about making some self centering pins for me. I would like to give all the cuemakers on here a chance to chime in and put forth some features they would like to see incorporated. Like me personally a threaded end beyond the 60degree center drill for easier install. Or maybe a hex head put right in the end for an allenwrench. I plan to start off with 3/8X10 in phenolic, G10, and brass to start with. If they sell good I will expand to the other threads. That is unless everyone would rather me start with a different thread. All sugestions would be greatly appriciated. I'm guessing that I will have to order atleast 2000pcs to get any kind of deal on them.
 
PM's Recieved

Thanks guys for the pm's.

However what I am really looking for is some ideas to make the existing products out there better before I submit a drawing for quoting. What features would you guys like to see different on what's out there?

Thanks,
 
The hex head in the end of the shaft sounds pretty cool.

Joe

I have been trying to find a good way to install a pin since I haven't made a bunch of delrin tools. From what they told me at work it would be best if everyone could live with using a set screw for this function. Also I think this would be best so that the live center hole is not lost. Otherwise the live center would be riding on the hex and could mess it up.
 
3/8 10 or 11 ( .308 or .312 minor ) with a .382 locating barrel and .365 by 10-11 tpi of 5 threads at the bottom.
Glue channel already broached.

Short round pilot and 60" center.
 
3/8 10 or 11 ( .308 or .312 minor ) with a .382 locating barrel and .365 by 10-11 tpi of 5 threads at the bottom.
Glue channel already broached.

Short round pilot and 60" center.

3/8 x 10 G10 in the above specs.
 
I have recently started working at a nut and bolt factory and have started talking to them about making some self centering pins for me. I would like to give all the cuemakers on here a chance to chime in and put forth some features they would like to see incorporated. Like me personally a threaded end beyond the 60degree center drill for easier install. Or maybe a hex head put right in the end for an allenwrench. I plan to start off with 3/8X10 in phenolic, G10, and brass to start with. If they sell good I will expand to the other threads. That is unless everyone would rather me start with a different thread. All sugestions would be greatly appriciated. I'm guessing that I will have to order atleast 2000pcs to get any kind of deal on them.

Would you like some advice???
Don't do this. Don't embark on this project.
2,000 pins will cost you at least $5,000 and quite possibly a lot more.
You've been building for how long now??
Do you think that you know what attributes constitute a good pin? No offense, but do you?
If you did, you wouldn't be asking everyone what they think you should have made.
Good pins are already pretty easy to come by. In a pinch, I can make my own.
You're about to dump a ton of money on a product that you'll likely be stuck with.
Except for maybe the 10 or 20 to the person that wants something totally goofy made.
Would you like a tap with that?
Smart-a$$, yeah, I know. But consider this. Unless these proposed pins are made in
dimensional compliance with respect to currently established and readily available taps,
you're into yet another line of products.

PUT YOUR MONEY INTO YOUR OWN BUSINESS so you can learn what makes a good pin.
People will tell you things about what they want for this reason or that.
That's how rumors & lies get started.
Personal experience is truth, it never lies.

Hopefully, you'll understand why I'm telling you this, in this way.
I'm not the dream-squasher that you may perceive me to be.
Quite the contrary, I've seen this movie before and I know how it ends.
You certainly wouldn't be the first on this site who's spent big-bucks to have a product
made only to wind-up holding the bag. In this case, a very expensive bag.
There's a world of difference btwn mill-run nuts & bolts and cue connection pins.
Are you prepared for the additional expense of electro-polishing should you go to stainless steel?
The reason I ask is, even the slightest burr or unpolished surface of the pin will have
a detrimental effect on the shaft's threads. It will just keep getting more loose.
G-10 can be a tad abrasive also.

I know that you're trying to be helpful to the other CMs/C-Tecs here and with your new
job at the bolt factory, this seems like an ideal way to do it. Trust me, it's not but
your good intent is acknowledged.
What I see possibly happening is that you'll become hopelessly in debt and without
sufficient means to allow you to build cues. This can be a very expensive hobby.
Put the time & money into your cues and learning how to build them. Then, maybe in 5-10
years you'll have acquired enough knowledge on the elements of a cue's connection pin to
know how a good one is made and why it's made the way it is.

If everything I've said here has fallen on deaf ears, so be it.
I'd like to see you give this a little more thought. What can it hurt?
Am I the only one seeing this or just the first to say it?
 
this is the pin i want, whatever materials you use is ok with me.
 

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KJ is giving good advice

He is looking out for you !
But if you decide you want to do this, then stick with tried and true designs. The 3/8 X 10 with .308 minor is extremely popular. I have always heard and read that the 3/8 X 10 is the most popular thread for cuemakers today.
Incorporate a solid centering body , cut it for glue relief, and it should be a top seller. Center drilled on the nose and polished if metal. And center drilled if G10. ANy cuemaker that will buy any amount of them at all will not need the hex end, and will most likely not want it. A center drilled end looks good, the look of the hex may steer many away from your pin. Most of us makers want a clean looking pin in our custom cues. Just making the pin accurately, and ready to glue in, no need to cut reliefs, will make it a seller !
If your position in your new job makes this pin affordable and you have enough of an "in" as to not have to make large quantities to start, then you may be able to make a go of it. Then add some different threads and such as you see the demand.
 
Would someone mind posting pics of the joints that are most popular?

I am not familiar with any of the terms you are using and would appreciate knowing exactly what you are talking about when you mention hex ends, cut for glue relief etc..

Also, I would be interested to know the most common method of fixing the joints, push fit or tapped.

Sorry to steer a little off topic, but as I read the thread I was struggling to understand reasons you guys were giving, either as an advantage or disadvantage.

Thank you
 
Would someone mind posting pics of the joints that are most popular?

I am not familiar with any of the terms you are using and would appreciate knowing exactly what you are talking about when you mention hex ends, cut for glue relief etc..

Also, I would be interested to know the most common method of fixing the joints, push fit or tapped.

Sorry to steer a little off topic, but as I read the thread I was struggling to understand reasons you guys were giving, either as an advantage or disadvantage.

Thank you

All of your questions have been answered in great depth and detail in the past. Use the Search Function - it really works well and is very helpful.

Gary
 
What KJ said. I spent a lot making my own pins and so far, it was a break even deal at best.
 
All of your questions have been answered in great depth and detail in the past. Use the Search Function - it really works well and is very helpful.

Gary

I beg to differ. I've never found a forum where you can find a straight simple answer from search function.

Try it yourself now. Hex ends. See what you get.

Also I searched glue relief but saw no pics or further explanation other than what I read here.

I'm just after a quick heads up, if anyone can help that's great.
 
3/8 10 or 11 ( .308 or .312 minor ) with a .382 locating barrel and .365 by 10-11 tpi of 5 threads at the bottom.
Glue channel already broached.

Short round pilot and 60" center.

While your making the new pins, don't forget to include some bastard sizes just to piss off us cue repair guys!
 
This could be simplified by just buying popular pins now, of course.
Then get em made.
 
Thanks guys for the pm's.

However what I am really looking for is some ideas to make the existing products out there better before I submit a drawing for quoting. What features would you guys like to see different on what's out there?

Thanks,

Though I applaud your attitude of wanting to improve...

I'm not so sure we need a better shape for the wheel.

Most features seem aimed at people who don't have either the
equipment, or the skill to drill a straight, centered hole.

The function of the pin is to hold the shaft to the butt tight.

Dale
 
pool cue video's

Would someone mind posting pics of the joints that are most popular?

I am not familiar with any of the terms you are using and would appreciate knowing exactly what you are talking about when you mention hex ends, cut for glue relief etc..

Also, I would be interested to know the most common method of fixing the joints, push fit or tapped.

Sorry to steer a little off topic, but as I read the thread I was struggling to understand reasons you guys were giving, either as an advantage or disadvantage.

Thank you

Seems like you need to get more education on basic cue making/repairs, and getting the video's from Hightower or Cue Components would help you a lot.
 
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