Shane's system experimentation

I use it on sharpe cut shots down the rail, like he showed in his interview on Tar24. It works most of the time for me.
 
I use it on sharpe cut shots down the rail, like he showed in his interview on Tar24. It works most of the time for me.

I've been using it for really thin cuts as well. Aiming the side of the tip along the edge or at small increments outside gives me a much more accurate view of an aiming point for these types of shots. 50 degree +

For small angle(close to straight) shots there's simply no need, it's easy to see where the object ball needs to be hit. ~0 to 30 degree

For medium angle shots, I can't find a lot of benefit and still rely on a more instinctive ball overlap to contact point. ~30 to 50 degree.
 
The secret to stick aiming methods....

People scoffed when the Mullen ultimate aiming video made a reappearance, and now everybody is talking about Shanes method. :p
The secret if there is one to stick aiming, is finding what makes the ball, then taking the time to see and memorize what your cue is actually pointed at. Does the edge of the tip line up with the edge of the ball, does it line up to the center or to the contact point? Its a reference point to check alignment. The memorized shot picture becomes the cross check to see if you are aimed correctly.
Where Ultimate Aim failed, was that it was never mentioned head/eye alignment changing those points. So its not precisely the same for everyone. What looks right to me, might look wrong to you.
That said, if you are consistent in your setup and physical alignment, shaft aiming is a very easy method to learn aiming points.
Chuck
 
Yes it works for me and it is parsimonious. Stick aiming with the ferrule works regardless of where you set your bridge down or the distance betweeen the CB and OB unless they are very close togeter.

ferrule view 1.jpg
 
I've been using it for really thin cuts as well. Aiming the side of the tip along the edge or at small increments outside gives me a much more accurate view of an aiming point for these types of shots. 50 degree +

For small angle(close to straight) shots there's simply no need, it's easy to see where the object ball needs to be hit. ~0 to 30 degree

For medium angle shots, I can't find a lot of benefit and still rely on a more instinctive ball overlap to contact point. ~30 to 50 degree.

I agree with you and I aim pretty close to exactly how you've described your aiming method. I like to use the shaft aiming method Shane described also on thin cut shots and it works for me.

James
 
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Anybody doing it ?

I have been using it since the 70's. I still have a cue that has an 1/8" wide self adhesive graphing stripe on the shaft running straight from the ferrule down to the joint.

Since I shoot thru the cue ball and at the OB I just line up the stripe with the contact point on the OB for center ball hits. If you are cutting a ball to the left you use the left side of the shaft regardless what spin you are applying. The same is true for cutting the OB to the right only you use the right side of the shaft. On very thin shots I estimate how many ferrule widths I have to allow to make the shot.

Its called the "back of the ball" aiming system.

There is a video on YouTube that demonstrates the use of the center and sides of the shaft for aiming. I cant find it or else I would have posted it.
I'll keep looking.

John.
 
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There is a good possibility that video your talking about was on my youtube page. But i know someone from this site msg youtube and told them it was copyrighted yesterday and they took it off my page. That is typical of the members on this site.
 
just spent an hour on 4" pockets using Shane's method as I understood it. very nice results.
 
just spent an hour on 4" pockets using Shane's method as I understood it. very nice results.

I too find Shane's method as I interpret it to be very accurate and parsimonious than CTE for me. I can visualize placing the edge of the ferrule one ferrule diameter outside of the edge of the OB and fractions thereof for thin cuts.

Be well.:wink::thumbup:
 
Yes it works for me and it is parsimonious. Stick aiming with the ferrule works regardless of where you set your bridge down or the distance betweeen the CB and OB unless they are very close togeter.

View attachment 212978

Those are my aiming points, exactly.

A tip on how to use those better.....

No matter how far away the OB is, you can simply place the tip of your cue very near the OB, run the butt/shaft over the CB's center. THAT is your aiming line.

Here's how to properly identify your line of aim if you're having problems...Do this in practice, not play, of course:

Place a ghost ball in position next to the OB. Place your tip very close to the Ghost Ball's center where it touches the cloth and shaft over the CB. Keep the tip there and remove the Ghost Ball. Now note where the cue is aiming, re the above diagram. THAT is your aiming line. So, if you're having trouble indentifying the proper lines, use a Ghost Ball to help.

Another tip when using side spin...

After you can easily and automatically identify the aiming line, you can change it one way (one step) or the other to take care of squirt and throw. This works like a charm with banks. It doesn't take long to figure it out and can really help pot some balls that before might have been a problem.

Jeff Livingston
 
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