help please- need advice on making -point wood-

HollyWood

HollyWood

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I did see the utube video ,DZ

Someone made a simple Jig ) or something. Graco helped long time ago- I can't find the reference. My friend cut the cocbolo into saw dust and Popsicle sticks- between the ban saw ,planer, surffacer- I was ready to fire him. all for some little squares. Thanks in advance - mark
 
Last edited:
well if you have a machine capable you can put a piece of wood into the jaws of your chuck and use a indexer on the other side and mount your router with a flat bottom bit and skim the top of the wood until flat indexed four times then you will have a square piece of wood for points and you can cut it in a scew jig like what you seen to make multiple points and save wood.

you will waste alot of wood learinging these things along the way i wouldnt fire him yet.

just wait till you try adding mitered venners and all the work that goes into it is thrown in the trash over a little glue line.

Good luck
 
I square my point wood by running it through the joiner so that one side is perfectly flat. I then run this piece of point wood through the the the planer with the joiner side down. This makes the top and bottom perfectly flat and parallel to each other. I then run the piece of wood through the table saw with either the joined or planed side down. Unless you have a good table saw the two sides that were sawed will be a little rough so you can run the now squared point wood either through a drum sander (By far the best) or on the joiner. It goes with out saying that all of your equipment must be tuned accurately or nothing will be square (table saw fence, joiner fence and planer head.

I used to try squaring my point wood on the mill but I never had much luck. The mill must be perfectly squared to the bed in all axis's and the vice needs to be a good one or the jaws may cant the wood slightly or the vice will not be perfectly squared on the bed.

The trouble I had using a router on the lathe was getting the router to be perfectly aligned at 90 deg.

My way takes quite a bit of equipment but it sounds as if you have most of it. The band saw is just not accurate enough for this work however.

Dick
 
rhncue said:
I need the board to be absolutely square on all 4 corners as I get all four points out of one .750 square.

Dick
Click to expand...

Are you sure you didn't mean two points out of one 3/4"square? If that is the case then then you only need adjacent sides square. And you can do the whole job on a jointer. Using the fence you can mill adjoining faces. Just mark your faces so as you don't mix up which corners are square to one another.
 
Last edited:
I mounted a fence to my $99 belt sander. Works like a charm & isn't fancy or requires expensive machines. The fence is just 1/2"x2" aluminum bar stock that runs the length of the sanding surface. Works fast & perfect every time, and I can't lose any fingers doing it. Nothing has to be held on place or cut to any specific dimension, and there's no chip or tear out with figured woods like burl & curl. Sanded 90 degree surface ready for glue. KISS
 
Canadian cue said:
Are you sure you didn't mean two points out of one 3/4"square? If that is the case then then you only need adjacent sides square. And you can do the whole job on a jointer. Using the fence you can mill adjoining faces. Just mark your faces so as you don't mix up which corners are square to one another.
Click to expand...

I don't normally answer for people, but I will here because I remember being impressed the first time that subject came up...so consider this a plug for Dickie. I have seen a diagram of the cuts, he meant all 4 points.

Kelly
 
would this work?

qbilder said:
I mounted a fence to my $99 belt sander. Works like a charm & isn't fancy or requires expensive machines. The fence is just 1/2"x2" aluminum bar stock that runs the length of the sanding surface. Works fast & perfect every time, and I can't lose any fingers doing it. Nothing has to be held on place or cut to any specific dimension, and there's no chip or tear out with figured woods like burl & curl. Sanded 90 degree surface ready for glue. KISS
Click to expand...

Do you think something like this one would work:smile:
BeltSander002.jpg

BeltSander001.jpg

BeltSander003.jpg
 
If you cut diagonally, you can get four pieces. If this OP is having issues just getting one square corner, I hardly think he's ready for Dick's solution. One of these days, I'll make a jig so that I can get four pieces out of a 3/4" piece of wood. For now, I'll have to live with 2.
 
Benifits

Is there a great benifit to getting 4 pieces out of 1 piece other than cost reduction?

I'm thinking that it might keep the grain in the points all looking similar and more apealing to the eye but I am not sure.
 
There is occasionally a color difference from one piece of wood to the next (in the same species). Using a single piece of wood for all the points insures that the colors match.
 
Lexicologist71 said:
There is occasionally a color difference from one piece of wood to the next (in the same species). Using a single piece of wood for all the points insures that the colors match.
Click to expand...

I figured it was something like that. Thank you very much for the insite.
 
making points

Can someone post, the diagram, on how to make the cuts, so you get 4 points?
 
rhncue said:
I need the board to be absolutely square on all 4 corners as I get all four points out of one .750 square.

Dick
Click to expand...


Hi,

I do the same as Dick. 4 points out of one square. it is amazing how much stock is left after you cut the points off. When you do this method you must use a joiner.

Rick
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top