tip

whammo57

whammo57

Kim Walker
Silver Member
Has anyone else had this problem?

You have the hole drilled and tapped in the butt for the joint pin and you are pouring the glue the hole. You pour it in too fast and it clogs up the hole with a vapor lock and you can't get the glue to the bottom of the hole. You want the glue below the pin to be solid and not leave a void.

Before you pour in the glue, put in a soda straw all the way to the bottom of the hole. Pour in the glue around the straw. The straw will let the air escape and the glue will run all the way down. When you get enough glue in the hole, hold you finger over the end of the straw to seal it then slowly pull it out. The glue will be sucked to the bottom of the hole by the vacuum.

I like the hole about 1/2 full before putting in the pin.

Be sure to cut a glue relief in the screw or in the hole. I use a long - thin saw blade to put 2 tiny slots all the way to the bottom of the hole. I cut right through the threads and you can't see it. After I cut the slots, I re run the tap in the hole to clean up the threads.

Kim
 
You are using WAY too much glue. Just SPREAD a LIGHT coating of glue into the hole with a thin stick & a LIGHT coating on the screw. Poring glue into the hole is just too much. As you turn the screw in you will create an air pocket at the bottom of the hole. This will inhibbit you from reaching the bottom of the hole with the screw. OVERKILL...JER
 
A great tip Kim .
I have usually put glue into a syringe and used the 1/8 inch pvc tubing to get to the bottom of a hole and then injected the resin in.
Neil
 
Glue

I agree!!!!!! Thanks for he insite I would not have thought of that.:thumbup:
 
Too much glue in the hole is a real good way to prove just how efficient hydraulic action is.
Dare we say split forearm.
Glue relief slots cut into the wooden threads is one way to relieve pressure.
Cutting those same slots in the pin itself IMO is a better way to go.
It accomplishes the same relief and also provides 'locking key-ways' once the epoxy hardens.
You might consider this method for brass inserts also.

KJ
 
KJ Cues said:
Too much glue in the hole is a real good way to prove just how efficient hydraulic action is.
Dare we say split forearm.
Glue relief slots cut into the wooden threads is one way to relieve pressure.
Cutting those same slots in the pin itself IMO is a better way to go.
It accomplishes the same relief and also provides 'locking key-ways' once the epoxy hardens.
You might consider this method for brass inserts also.

KJ
Click to expand...


You are right.... a cut in the threads of the pin is best. But if I cut a groove in the threads, say... with a dremel or grind a flat, I don't have a 10 tpi die nut or thread chaser to straighten out the threads on the pin.

Any suggestions???

Using my method, I press the pin in slowly to get the excess glue to flow out and then screw it in slowly giving time for the pressure to relieve. I use a thin viscosity glue so there is no hydraulic pressure left after the pin is in.

Kim
 
whammo57 said:
You are right.... a cut in the threads of the pin is best. But if I cut a groove in the threads, say... with a dremel or grind a flat, I don't have a 10 tpi die nut or thread chaser to straighten out the threads on the pin.

Any suggestions???

Using my method, I press the pin in slowly to get the excess glue to flow out and then screw it in slowly giving time for the pressure to relieve. I use a thin viscosity glue so there is no hydraulic pressure left after the pin is in.

Kim
Click to expand...


I cut a relief in all my stainless pins on my mill and hit an aluminum one by hand with a small carbide saw blade in my laminate trimmer a couple weeks ago. None of those needed to be cleaned up and threaded fine.

I promised myself that I would start doing that after the very first pin I put in split my forearm... :(
 
pescadoman said:
I cut a relief in all my stainless pins on my mill and hit an aluminum one by hand with a small carbide saw blade in my laminate trimmer a couple weeks ago. None of those needed to be cleaned up and threaded fine.

I promised myself that I would start doing that after the very first pin I put in split my forearm... :(
Click to expand...

OK.....

I actually went and did it. I took a SS 3/8-10 pin and cut a glue relief groove in it with an abrasive wheel in a dremel. (just to prove you wrong ...LOL) It took all of 15 seconds.

I have to admit, I am sold. It screwed into the wood thread easily. The threads on the pin don't get buggered up much at all.

thanks

Another item deposited into the bank of knowledge...........

Kim
 
whammo57 said:
OK.....

I actually went and did it. I took a SS 3/8-10 pin and cut a glue relief groove in it with an abrasive wheel in a dremel. (just to prove you wrong ...LOL) It took all of 15 seconds.

I have to admit, I am sold. It screwed into the wood thread easily. The threads on the pin don't get buggered up much at all.

thanks

Another item deposited into the bank of knowledge...........

Kim
Click to expand...

:) I hope you wore eye protection sir!!
 
Kim,

I just grind a flat for hydraulic relief with my green wheel. It takes 30 seconds and I don't have the chase with a die.

Rick
 
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