Thanks for all the advice. I'll pick up some delrin and make a few myself.
Shaft Collets
- Thread starter ArizonaPete
- Start date
Im curious how you plan to split the collets? You have a bandsaw? Gonna use a hacksaw? 
Collets for the tip end of the shaft are probably ok if non tapered...but collets for the joint ends or butt, I would think only a tapered collet would work. Got a compound slide?
Collets for the tip end of the shaft are probably ok if non tapered...but collets for the joint ends or butt, I would think only a tapered collet would work. Got a compound slide?
Im curious how you plan to split the collets? You have a bandsaw? Gonna use a hacksaw?
Collets for the tip end of the shaft are probably ok if non tapered...but collets for the joint ends or butt, I would think only a tapered collet would work. Got a compound slide?
Change your router bit to a 1/16 or 1/8 wing cutter.
Placed those collets on a junk shaft.
Put the shaft in your taper machine.
Don't spin the shaft of course.
Take a pass towards the tip end so the cutter pulls the collets towards the fat end .
Take little cuts until the cutter hits wood.
You'll have clean slits.
For joint end, taper the inside to match your taper or close to it.
14 thou per inch is a good one to start with. Compound is set a little less than half a degree on mine.
Or just stick a dead center on the chuck, crank the boring bar close to it , place something that is around .007 thick one inch away from the tip of the boring bar and next to the dead center. Slow move the boring bar towards the dead center until you get that angle/.007 gap.
Lock the compound.
Or you can order some from rich cuemakers who have cnc turning centers.
Joey~Poor maker ~
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I have always found the shaft collets to be inaccurate. I always had to loosen and rechuck, spin the shaft while watching the dial indicator.
I stopped using them. I use a piece of plastic non compressible shim stock that is .020 thick. I cut a strip about 1 inch wide and 4 inches long. I wrap it around the shaft and pinch the ends together and chuck it up with the ends sticking out between 2 jaws.
I found it to be more accurate with less playing with the shaft to get it to run true. It fits all sizes. You can use it anyplace on the shaft.
Kim
I stopped using them. I use a piece of plastic non compressible shim stock that is .020 thick. I cut a strip about 1 inch wide and 4 inches long. I wrap it around the shaft and pinch the ends together and chuck it up with the ends sticking out between 2 jaws.
I found it to be more accurate with less playing with the shaft to get it to run true. It fits all sizes. You can use it anyplace on the shaft.
Kim
I have been
Doing the same thing Kim but I am using a 3/4 inch wide piece of leather and it wont slip and it seems to run real true no matter where you chuck the shaft at. I use the smooth side toward the jaws.--Leonard
Doing the same thing Kim but I am using a 3/4 inch wide piece of leather and it wont slip and it seems to run real true no matter where you chuck the shaft at. I use the smooth side toward the jaws.--Leonard
I have seen pictures of people using leather but I always wondered if it was too soft and compressable. I guess not.... huh???
Kim
I use the collets in My steady rests, but other then one shaft collet that I sometimes use, I have been using leather in the jaws for years. The pieces I use were fairly thin to begin with, but compressed and became even more consistent over time. I have even cut strips of playing cards, and used those, but It depends what I'm doing at the time as to what I use.
Split collets in steady rest
I just recently bought a Deluxe that came with a set of collets. The owner before me had split them and now they are no good for the steady rest. The friction of the bearing seems to pull one side more than the other and compresses the wood. Then they become loose and start walking out of the bearing until they come out.
Also for the guys that dispose of their scraps by burning DO NOT mix Acetal and PVC. This is a major no no and anyone that has experience with molding knows what I'm talking about.
I just recently bought a Deluxe that came with a set of collets. The owner before me had split them and now they are no good for the steady rest. The friction of the bearing seems to pull one side more than the other and compresses the wood. Then they become loose and start walking out of the bearing until they come out.
Also for the guys that dispose of their scraps by burning DO NOT mix Acetal and PVC. This is a major no no and anyone that has experience with molding knows what I'm talking about.
I only have one collet that is real bad about trying to back out of the bearing, and It's the thinnest one of the lot. I had one other that was not as bad, but would try that on me occasionally, and If you try to hold It tight by forcing the cue to expand the collet, It would leave a small line, so I try to avoid using that one. None of mine leave a compression mark for the full thickness of the collet. I think the reason the one leaves a line is... even that the champer is not smooth enough on it, or the taper of the bore is off, making It grip more on the leading edge. It may be a combination of both for all I know. I just choose not to use that one. Having to touch up a finish one time is enough for me not to use it anymore. Another factor could be differences in the tapers of the work pieces being held. Since those can vary amongst each other, a collet with one specific taper may not work as well with all cues.
Acetal is the proper name the plastics place will know Delrin by.
Tapering your collets helps, but is not absolutely neccessary. I would guess if you took a poll 90% don't use tapered collets.
Edenneil_james
Registered
I know, old thread but I've used 3/4 inch scrap schedule 80 pvc turned it gradually cut them 1 1/2 inch long and splice them in 4 not all the way thru so it'll hold together still. Just my 2 cents
