resealing shaft discoloration

poolshooter74

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
there is a color variation line from the original finish to where i resealed the shaft, which is a visual distraction for this customer.

i sand and use speed seal II and then wax. when im done it is not as glossy looking as the finish closer to the joint.

what is another method i could use without having this result?

thank you,
louis
 
there is a color variation line from the original finish to where i resealed the shaft, which is a visual distraction for this customer.

i sand and use speed seal II and then wax. when im done it is not as glossy looking as the finish closer to the joint.

what is another method i could use without having this result?

thank you,
louis

Look around the pool hall at the cues and you will see that very few unfinished parts of the shaft are the same shade of color as the finished portion near the joint.

The exception may be a new shaft that hasn't had time to gather hand oils, chalk, and oxidation.

Kim
 
The shaft will show age on the portion that has no clear coat on it.
This is normal.....
The only way to get around your customers problem is to
1- clear the entire shaft..... Not. A good plan
2- take the clear off if the shaft right to the joint collar.
 
there is a color variation line from the original finish to where i resealed the shaft, which is a visual distraction for this customer.

i sand and use speed seal II and then wax. when im done it is not as glossy looking as the finish closer to the joint.

what is another method i could use without having this result?

thank you,
louis

If I understand you correctly, you are saying the customer is distracted by the clear finish to "unfinished" transition that occurs 1-3 inches from the joint?

If that is the case, he has more problems that just that...

However, you can remove the clear up to to just the ring and it will all match.
 
That is perfectly normal. If he is that easily distracted and that unfamiliar with how custom cues look, I doubt he can run 6 balls. So since he may not play good enough for it to matter here is how to make them look the same. Sand it down to remove your speed seal. Then take thin super glue and put 10 to 20 coats on it. Then sand from 320 all the way down to 2000 grit and polish it out with buffing compound and he will have a clear coated shaft from ferrule to joint. It will drag through his hand some. But that speed player would probably like to play with a glove anyway or come get you to wax it regularly.
 
This is something I've prided myself on for years,and one of the things that is being circulated by my overjoyed customers,by coming close enough to making the shaft look out-of-the-box new.

I also do it with the minimum of sanding possible.

The Magic Eraser is downright awesome for this,but it still takes elbow grease,and skill.

I worked a tournament yesterday where my first customer passed the shaft I did for him around to enough players that I only did 6-7 tips all day and redid 25 shafts based on his pleasure with my work.

This was a 58 player tournament,so I redid shafts for just about 1/2 the field,and several of the players that I didn't do work for were still raving about the work I did in December and obviously taking care of them.

Everyone has their own methods,but one tip I will pass along here is use a good bit of denatured alcohol,a fresh Eraser,go with the grain and leave the lathe turned OFF for real deep chalk and dirt.

My cleaning methods usually result in me starting my sanding with 600,as it takes 85% of the dents out of the equation.

One of the shafts I did at the tournament was the guy's 30 yr player that had never been cleaned or sanded,just well cared for enough that there were no noticable dents/nicks,just chalk and hand oil.

He said the shaft didn't look that good NEW,and sure didn't feel that good :thumbup:. Tommy D.
 
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