ivorene ferrule
- Thread starter jocnat
- Start date
agreed, pic needed
Clean it with a Magic Eraser & alcohol. Then seal it with CA...JER
Does the fact that the stain and the tip are the same color, suggest anything to you?
Generally, the ferrule is installed and SEALED before the tip goes on.
That way, no sanding dust from the tip or elsewhere should find it's way into the weave.
I know that doesn't help you much this time but it should for next.
All linen weave ferrules should be sealed prior to sending them out into the world.
If you think it looks bad now, wait until you get the blue chalk going.
Looking at the angle the shaft wood is coming off the bottom of the ferrule, I'd say you've done a bit of sanding.
Hopefully, this is your own shaft.
Take a .005" pass on the ferrule to clean it up, seal it and proceed with your turn-down.
Just replacing the ferrule won't do. You've already taken wood off.
KJ
Generally, the ferrule is installed and SEALED before the tip goes on.
That way, no sanding dust from the tip or elsewhere should find it's way into the weave.
I know that doesn't help you much this time but it should for next.
All linen weave ferrules should be sealed prior to sending them out into the world.
If you think it looks bad now, wait until you get the blue chalk going.
Looking at the angle the shaft wood is coming off the bottom of the ferrule, I'd say you've done a bit of sanding.
Hopefully, this is your own shaft.
Take a .005" pass on the ferrule to clean it up, seal it and proceed with your turn-down.
Just replacing the ferrule won't do. You've already taken wood off.
KJ
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Actually, Ivorine-3 is a pretty decent ferrule mtrl.
It's what McD uses.
As I've stated, any linen/canvas based mtrl should be sealed. Don't let that one little extra step
discourage you from using an otherwise very good ferrule mtrl.
If the linen weave is putting you off, try Juma. Ivorine-3 and Juma are about the same wght.
and Juma has no linen weave. I can't give you my take on Juma's hit relative to Ivorine-3 because I
haven't done a side by side comparison but my sense tells me that the Ivorine would give a harder hit.
Just looked at my 'saved' data and the numbers say that Ivorine is harder than Juma by 4.5%.
Good Luck, KJ
It's what McD uses.
As I've stated, any linen/canvas based mtrl should be sealed. Don't let that one little extra step
discourage you from using an otherwise very good ferrule mtrl.
If the linen weave is putting you off, try Juma. Ivorine-3 and Juma are about the same wght.
and Juma has no linen weave. I can't give you my take on Juma's hit relative to Ivorine-3 because I
haven't done a side by side comparison but my sense tells me that the Ivorine would give a harder hit.
Just looked at my 'saved' data and the numbers say that Ivorine is harder than Juma by 4.5%.
Good Luck, KJ
To be scared of your failure now, learn and improve instead (regardless of the ferrule material).
Kelly
I would suggest using 14mm tips instead of 13. That would have prevented the red dye on the outside of that Sumo from getting into the ferrule, and the tip, once to size, would be a uniform chocolate color instead of splotched with red.
Ivorine is a good material but pitty. KJ offered up a sure fire way to prevent the mess in the future. Changing to another material is not going to help you learn anything, only avoid it. Using Juma or whatever else on the sole basis of aesthetics is not the way you want to start your cue repair endeavor. At some point somebody is going to ask you to use a hard hitting material, or will outright ask you for a melamine material (ivorine, aegis, etc.), and then what? Are you going to tell them no because you don't know how to use that material? You have nothing to lose by learning, except the cost of some material. But that will be far outweighed by what you'll lose if you send out a shaft looking like that or refuse to use certain materials because you don't know how.
Ivorine is a good material but pitty. KJ offered up a sure fire way to prevent the mess in the future. Changing to another material is not going to help you learn anything, only avoid it. Using Juma or whatever else on the sole basis of aesthetics is not the way you want to start your cue repair endeavor. At some point somebody is going to ask you to use a hard hitting material, or will outright ask you for a melamine material (ivorine, aegis, etc.), and then what? Are you going to tell them no because you don't know how to use that material? You have nothing to lose by learning, except the cost of some material. But that will be far outweighed by what you'll lose if you send out a shaft looking like that or refuse to use certain materials because you don't know how.
My concern is once shaft is return to customer and they regularly clean their shaft ( a lot of people use abrasives to clean). Won't the sealer coating be removed and continue to cause the ferrule to get marked (especially chalk). By the way magic eraser and alcohol did not work.
As I am learning, It does get expensive to try different ways. Is there a chart anywhere that explains properties of different ferrule materials?
Thanks to who have replied.
As I am learning, It does get expensive to try different ways. Is there a chart anywhere that explains properties of different ferrule materials?
Thanks to who have replied.
If your clients are in the habit of cleaning their shafts with abrasives, scuffy pads, etc., you need to
educate them to the fact that they are basically ruining their shafts. It's a hard-sell I know because old habits don't break easily.
As far as properties, I'll show you what I have saved. This data was supplied by a couple of gracious AZers.
Ferrule Material - Relative Weight
Maple 1.00
Titan 1.67
Mason's Micarta 1.78
AZ Micarta 1.84
Delrin 1.90
PVC 1.91
Elforyn 1.93
Atlas MPI 1.95
Real Micarta 1.95
Aegis2 1.97
Ivorine3 2.06
Juma 2.06
LBM 2.06
Tiger Saber T 2.40
Elephant Ivory 2.50
Ivorine4 2.73
Ferrule Hardness
Aegis II: 93
Black Canvas Phenolic: 92
Black Linen Phenolic: 93
Elforyn: 87
Fiber: 87
G10: 93
Grice: 91
Ivor-X: 96
Ivorine III: 93
Ivorine IV: 96
Ivorite-III: 93
Juma: 89
LBM: 95
Meucci Original: 85
Micarta (GE): 94
Micarta (Mason): 91
Micarta (Westinghouse): 84
MPI: 86
Porper: 87
PVC: 86
Rolled Brown Linen Phenolic: 89
Saber T: 94
Titan: 84
XTC: 83
Also, I second what Eric is saying. Don't run from a challenge, master it.
As Kelly said, learn from this experience.
educate them to the fact that they are basically ruining their shafts. It's a hard-sell I know because old habits don't break easily.
As far as properties, I'll show you what I have saved. This data was supplied by a couple of gracious AZers.
Ferrule Material - Relative Weight
Maple 1.00
Titan 1.67
Mason's Micarta 1.78
AZ Micarta 1.84
Delrin 1.90
PVC 1.91
Elforyn 1.93
Atlas MPI 1.95
Real Micarta 1.95
Aegis2 1.97
Ivorine3 2.06
Juma 2.06
LBM 2.06
Tiger Saber T 2.40
Elephant Ivory 2.50
Ivorine4 2.73
Ferrule Hardness
Aegis II: 93
Black Canvas Phenolic: 92
Black Linen Phenolic: 93
Elforyn: 87
Fiber: 87
G10: 93
Grice: 91
Ivor-X: 96
Ivorine III: 93
Ivorine IV: 96
Ivorite-III: 93
Juma: 89
LBM: 95
Meucci Original: 85
Micarta (GE): 94
Micarta (Mason): 91
Micarta (Westinghouse): 84
MPI: 86
Porper: 87
PVC: 86
Rolled Brown Linen Phenolic: 89
Saber T: 94
Titan: 84
XTC: 83
Also, I second what Eric is saying. Don't run from a challenge, master it.
As Kelly said, learn from this experience.
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