Worn out threads

oldgame

oldgame

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have a Cognoscenti and on my favorite shaft the threads are wearing out. Meaning I can slide the shaft half way on before the threads start to grab. Is there anything I can do. I tried putting a wet cloth in there to make it swell, that works but for only a couple of days.
 
Well here we go, I am going to get slamed big for this suggestion but it is common practice in molds and waterproofing and doing so you are doing at your own risk,

Apply a silicone release agent to a like pin thread that you have slot groved for pressure release. Thread on a piece of delron to same size or larger part of shaft. Carefully put very thin layer of release agent on delron and perimiter around shaft being very carefull no release agent gets into threased joint of shaft. Visqueen and tape entire shaft. Mix up at perfect ratio some very slow thin epoxy. Funnel pour your epoxy about 1/2 full into threaded shaft. Very, very slowly insert release agent pin and turn in. When you get close to bottoming out keep letting all excess epoxy come out, you want no pressure build. When you get to part where delron is about to contact get all surrounding epoxy out of there with paper towel. No pressure, crank home and bottom out. Let shaft sit like that for about a week and unscrew, If you did it right the release agent will make it an easy job. You just made new threads.

If it were mine I would bore the wood out put new wood in and Tap the new wood. Either way there will be a glue or epoxy involved.
 
Plug it and re tap threads.
Sent it to a competent repair man or back to Cog to get it done.
 
Cuejo's suggestion is probably the best way to go. However if it is not too far gone you can dump some thin super glue in the shaft threads, roll it around inside the hole to coat all sides, then dump out the excess and wipe the face clean. Allow it to completely dry before you screw the cue together. Some times it may take a couple of applications. Obviously... make sure that it is completely dry!! before you put the cue together.
 
oldgame said:
I have a Cognoscenti and on my favorite shaft the threads are wearing out. Meaning I can slide the shaft half way on before the threads start to grab. Is there anything I can do. I tried putting a wet cloth in there to make it swell, that works but for only a couple of days.
Click to expand...

Very few people have the correct tap for this size. Send it back to Joe Gold.
 
tsp&b said:
Cuejo's suggestion is probably the best way to go. However if it is not too far gone you can dump some thin super glue in the shaft threads, roll it around inside the hole to coat all sides, then dump out the excess and wipe the face clean. Allow it to completely dry before you screw the cue together. Some times it may take a couple of applications. Obviously... make sure that it is completely dry!! before you put the cue together.
Click to expand...

I just gots to ask:grin:
Do people really do this??
And if they do, what happens if there's and oops and you don't have the tap???:eek:
 
Some shafts have threaded inserts (5/16-14, 5/16-18, Uni-loc, etc.) and some just have a threaded hole in the wood (3/8-10, Radial, etc.). Each type gives a distinctive feel. Each type have pros and cons.

The one con to a threaded hole in the shaft is that over time they tend to loosen up, especially if the pin is G-10. When the cue is first built, there are a few ways to minimize the loosening, but that's a different discussion.

While I can see the super glue trick working, it just seems like a band-aid fix to me. I also agree with Cuejo: (1) send it back to Cognescenti for repair, or (2) have a competent cue repair guy plug and retap.
 
Like Cuejo said, it can be re-bored, plugged and retapped.

If you are wanting to try something yourself though, the super glue method mentioned above has worked for me before. Use a thin one and really lay it in there, then very quickly swing the shaft around to sling out the excess glue (do it outside for obvious reasons and do it at your own risk! safety goggles come to mind). Also make sure you mask off the rest of the shaft in case some of it slings onto it.

If you are hesitant to try the super glue, a few drops of liquid car wax down in the hole will help some too. But if it's as bad as you are saying I doubt the wax will help much.

That's one bad thing about the G10 pins IMHO.
 
Michael Webb said:
I just gots to ask:grin:
Do people really do this??
And if they do, what happens if there's and oops and you don't have the tap???:eek:
Click to expand...


I never use this method to reform or fill in threads, but I have used It as a tapping aid when going into softer woods. After the glue dries, I come back in with a reamer before threading. There's very little CA left after that though.

I agree with you, in this particular situation the cue should be sent to Joe for repair. who better to do It?
 
Michael Webb said:
I just gots to ask:grin:
Do people really do this??
And if they do, what happens if there's and oops and you don't have the tap???:eek:
Click to expand...

Just did it to a shaft for a friend. I made a phenolic insert up, threaded and centered, bored the shaft, glued it in and faced off only the phenolic insert a thou or two under the original face so I didn't have to worry about it locating differently.

And yes, I made sure the insert fit before touching the shaft :)

*
 
bruppert said:
Just did it to a shaft for a friend. I made a phenolic insert up, threaded and centered, bored the shaft, glued it in and faced off only the phenolic insert a thou or two under the original face so I didn't have to worry about it locating differently.

And yes, I made sure the insert fit before touching the shaft :)

*
Click to expand...

You glued the insert in with CA??
 
tsp&b said:
Cuejo's suggestion is probably the best way to go. However if it is not too far gone you can dump some thin super glue in the shaft threads, roll it around inside the hole to coat all sides, then dump out the excess and wipe the face clean. Allow it to completely dry before you screw the cue together. Some times it may take a couple of applications. Obviously... make sure that it is completely dry!! before you put the cue together.
Click to expand...

Got your pm, Thanks I think. For you all that use the CA, I'm glad it works for you, BUT WHAT IF YOU USE IT AND DON'T HAVE THE TAP.??? Two part question and some of you dwelled on the first part.
 
imho the only way to do this right is to bore, plug, bore, tap.....since the pin is an odd one not many people have the tap for it. Send it back to Joe Gold. You'll save yourself alot of headache because your going to have to eventually....would you rather have him see a botched job and think you abused the cue or show him the proper respect with a cue HE built. I would think for the repect of sending it back to him the charge would be minor. I know I would do it on my own cues for the price of shipping.
 
Phenolic_Insert_several_400.jpg

Plug it up and tap ( if you have that tap ).
 
Michael Webb said:
Got your pm, Thanks I think. For you all that use the CA, I'm glad it works for you, BUT WHAT IF YOU USE IT AND DON'T HAVE THE TAP.??? Two part question and some of you dwelled on the first part.
Click to expand...

Michael, I believe he said it was his favorite shaft. My take on this is he has two shafts with the cue. The best is to send it back to the cuemaker which brings up numerous issues. 1. Economic times. 2. Most cue makers I know want the but and other shaft so when they are completed everything is as pristine to feel of fit on shafts as originaly made.

The shaft IMO is already not right and by all means the best is going to come from boring, plugging and rethreading. Some failed super glue attempt should not cause any more cost to have repaired right.

I say this not out of disrespect but I know by reputation you do things right period. There is no other way for you. This is a good thing not bad.

They sell things like Fix a Flat and Radiator sealer. This is not the final solution and does not work everytime. For some it allows the time and money to get them where they are going while they make plans on having it done right.

Due to your highly ranked reputation of seeking perfection in your craft I understand concern and you can not be known it the slightest for a Jury rig of any kind but sometimes a mans gotta do what he's gotta do for reasons we can not judge him by.
 
Tried the super glue and it seems to work but it's a temporary fix. I just had another shaft tapered down, it's slightly lighter so hopefully it will hit the same. My favorite shaft seems slightly heavier and hits more solid than any other shaft I have hit with for a Cognoscenti. It is like nite and day and other people have said the same thing. Maybe it was just one of those 1 in a 1000 shafts that come out perfect.
 
JoeyInCali said:
Phenolic_Insert_several_400.jpg

Plug it up and tap ( if you have that tap ).
Click to expand...

The insert that Joey shows will work on most other threads but not the Cog which is 7/16x11.
The reason that it won't work is because the threaded section of the insert (Unique Products) is 1/2x20.
That has a minor dia. of approx. .413 which is smaller than the major dia of the pin.
What's likely to happen is that the 7/16x11 tap will take out 1/2 of the installed insert.
The 1/2x20 threaded section will be gone and what remains of the unthreaded section will have
a wall thickness of .0315".
Consider also that the Unique insert is about 1" in total length. The Cog pin is longer than that.
Plugging & tapping is the way to go, I just wouldn't use that insert.
Atlas has the 7/16x11 tap in stock.

http://www.cuestik.com/store/product.asp?DEPARTMENT_ID=129&ITEM_ID=5824
 
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