John Schmidt's and Corey Deuel's comments on aiming systems

Ultimate Banking System...pivoting to create banking angles

Patrick Johnson said:
Here's something I've posted before about it:
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I use a banking system that looks just like this.....one tip (going length of the table) equates to 2 diamonds of english....and the inverted method of this created a very effective banking system....a paid $700. to learn this system and it's made me MANY returns though the years ;)
I show it on 'CJ's Ultimate Pool Secrets' www.cjwiley.com
 
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cjssecrets4u2 said:
This is a good way to personally describe the feeling....and that's the only way we can learn a new paradigm is to build a bridge to one we have already...and if you remember my aiming system released in 1996 'The Ultimate Aiming System' I ALWAYS either aim Center to Center OR Center to Edge...I just didn't want to explain the "touch of inside" because I knew it would be virtually impossible for me to describe at that time and would end up confusing aspiring players....as I said before, it takes me two hours to communicate it (and it be understood) in a private lesson. We must find a way to understand in our own way, and sometimes we have to break through a lifetime of false beliefs:thumbup:....The Game is the Teacher;)
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CJ:

I just want to take a moment to tell you how WONDERFUL it is to have you on these boards, participating in discussion, sharing info, and not being afraid to engage a little back-and-forth with some of our more debate-inspired members.

This is as opposed to other pro-level players who come on here, looking only to either A.) push/sell a product, but with no open sharing of the some of the material in that product [e.g. "you have to call me to get any of it"], or B.) look for sponsorship or otherwise have people from here go to a website to vote for them for the Mosconi Cup team. In other words, self-serving stuff, at the expense of the members.

I enjoy your writing style, and I personally have learned a lot.

Best regards,
Sean F. Leinen <-- 100-ball runner in 14.1, and wished he had more time to play without the "day job" gig constantly getting in the way
 
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Neil said:
Don't see the problem?? Same way you would when you add english. Most of the pivot systems give you a center pocket alignment. From there, it's an easy adjustment to aim a hair fuller for the outside of the pocket.
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I tried it some today with pivoting.I made some but not all i made just about all with out.So i ask myself why would I change something thats not broke.
I feel like Im really making shots harder than they are.lol

This is know easy task and I bet takes quite a long time to master and you sure and the heck wouldnt want to be changing shafts all the time.
I feel confident a year from now I will have a few shots mastered.:smile:
 
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8pack said:
I tried it some today with pivoting.I made some but not all i made just about all with out.So i ask myself why would I change something thats not broke.
I feel like Im really making shots harder than they are.lol

This is know easy task and I bet takes quit a long time to master and you sure and the heck wouldnt want to be changing shafts all the time.
I feel confident a year from now I will have a few shots mastered.:smile:
Click to expand...

The most important question is "are you missing in a consistent way?" Hitting the cue ball straight is the most important thing.....I suggest before you start tinkering with things that "aren't broke" to try this one drill.....

Put the cue ball two diamonds up from the head rail and one diamond over towards the center of the table....put an object ball in the center of the table straight in to the corner....if you're right handed put your LEFT FOOT parallel to the straight line of that shot and shoot it til you make it 5 times in a row and then move to the other side of the table and do the same.

...if you have trouble with this DO IT EVERYDAY until it's easy.....this will fine tune your stroke.

....now, keep the cue ball the same place (two diamonds up from the head rail and one diamond over towards the center) and shoot a ball off the spot (spot shot), this is EXACTLY a half ball hit....do the same thing , 5 in a row from either side......this will improve your whole game in a matter of one week.....Let me know how it works...it's done wonders for a lot of people I've worked with over the years.....Aloha
 
cjssecrets4u2 said:
The most important question is "are you missing in a consistent way?" Hitting the cue ball straight is the most important thing.....I suggest before you start tinkering with things that "aren't broke" to try this one drill.....

Put the cue ball two diamonds up from the head rail and one diamond over towards the center of the table....put an object ball in the center of the table straight in to the corner....if you're right handed put your LEFT FOOT parallel to the straight line of that shot and shoot it til you make it 5 times in a row and then move to the other side of the table and do the same.

...if you have trouble with this DO IT EVERYDAY until it's easy.....this will fine tune your stroke.

....now, keep the cue ball the same place (two diamonds up from the head rail and one diamond over towards the center) and shoot a ball off the spot (spot shot), this is EXACTLY a half ball hit....do the same thing , 5 in a row from either side......this will improve your whole game in a matter of one week.....Let me know how it works...it's done wonders for a lot of people I've worked with over the years.....Aloha
Click to expand...


Thanks I will give it a try.Thats all i really do anymore are drills anyway.

Can you give some advice on the break on the bar box.That's
the shot I dog the most.lol
 
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Joe T said:
C the only thing I can say to that explanation is Holy Sh*t
I got the message, TY
Ok that was the quick reply but I could SEE you explanation as I read it thats why I was kinda floored and I forgot to ask about the outside. I have been hitting some balls and see what you mean about inside but without spin, doesn't make sense but I see it what you mean. Can you clue me in on how you approach or stroke a ball on the side rail that has to come back 3-6 feet and you have around a 45 degree angle on it?
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i would think and i maybe wrong but applying english to this system would be the same as you would with all systems. I cant see a reason why it would be different?
 
cjssecrets4u2 said:
... now, keep the cue ball the same place (two diamonds up from the head rail and one diamond over towards the center) and shoot a ball off the spot (spot shot), this is EXACTLY a half ball hit....
Click to expand...

Question for you, CJ. A half-ball hit without spin produces exactly a 30-degree cut (and slightly less than that if you recognize collision-induced throw). But the spot shot you mention above (from 2 diamonds up and 1 diamond over), actually requires a cut angle of about 32 degrees to center pocket rather than 30 (ignoring CIT). The place to put the CB on the head string for a true 30-degree cut on a spot shot is a couple inches closer to the side rail (or even a bit more to allow for CIT). From the spot you specify, a true half-ball hit with no spin would likely undercut the shot slightly.

When I first viewed your DVD, I wondered why you called the 2-up/1-over spot shot exactly a half-ball hit. And I'm now wondering if it's because of the technique you have shared with us here. When you say it is a half-ball hit, are you aiming half ball but hitting the CB slightly to the inside, thereby creating (as the result of CB squirt) a slightly thinner hit on the OB?
 
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Accelerating with Confidence

AtLarge said:
Question for you, CJ. A half-ball hit without spin produces exactly a 30-degree cut (and slightly less than that if you recognize collision-induced throw). But the spot shot you mention above (from 2 diamonds up and 1 diamond over), actually requires a cut angle of about 32 degrees to center pocket rather than 30 (ignoring CIT). The place to put the CB on the head string for a true 30-degree cut on a spot shot is a couple inches closer to the side rail (or even a bit more to allow for CIT). From the spot you specify, a true half-ball hit with no spin would likely undercut the shot slightly.

When I first viewed your DVD, I wondered why you called the 2-up/1-over spot shot exactly a half-ball hit. And I'm now wondering if it's because of the technique you have shared with us here. When you say it is a half-ball hit, are you aiming half ball but hitting the CB slightly to the inside, thereby creating (as the result of CB squirt) a slightly thinner hit on the OB?
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That's an interesting point....this is the shot I've always used to calibrate my half ball hit. On longer shots, especially off the rail I aim about an inch outside the pocket because I know for sure it's going to throw. Then I can concentrate on accelerating with confidence.
 
cjssecrets4u2 said:
That's an interesting point....this is the shot I've always used to calibrate my half ball hit. On longer shots, especially off the rail I aim about an inch outside the pocket because I know for sure it's going to throw. Then I can concentrate on accelerating with confidence.
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My question was -- when you shoot that spot shot with the CB one diamond in from the side rail on the head string -- are you hitting the CB slightly to the inside of center? If so, that might account for why you make that shot from that position, because squirt from the inside hit could be moving the CB into the thinner hit needed.

From one diamond in (12.5") from the side rail on the head string, the cut angle needed for a spot shot (ignoring collision-induced throw) is 32.3 degrees. Because of throw, the aim would need to be even a bit thinner than that. So aiming for a 30 degree cut (half-ball aim) with a center hit would under cut the shot.

The effects of CIT vary with speed of shot, but with a medium speed hit, I find that placing the CB about 8"-9" in from the side rail on the head string works well for a half-ball aim on the OB with a rolling CB hit on the center axis.
 
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Thanks CJ. This is a very great drill. I never thougth about it. Been doing it and it's helping to get me lined up and consistant. I'm having a hard time putting my left foot exactly parallel. It's more comfortable for me to keep it a little short of parallel but I don't think that's too big of a deal. Right?


Your the best pal..

Mullet Mark in Houston...haha



cjssecrets4u2 said:
The most important question is "are you missing in a consistent way?" Hitting the cue ball straight is the most important thing.....I suggest before you start tinkering with things that "aren't broke" to try this one drill.....

Put the cue ball two diamonds up from the head rail and one diamond over towards the center of the table....put an object ball in the center of the table straight in to the corner....if you're right handed put your LEFT FOOT parallel to the straight line of that shot and shoot it til you make it 5 times in a row and then move to the other side of the table and do the same.

...if you have trouble with this DO IT EVERYDAY until it's easy.....this will fine tune your stroke.

....now, keep the cue ball the same place (two diamonds up from the head rail and one diamond over towards the center) and shoot a ball off the spot (spot shot), this is EXACTLY a half ball hit....do the same thing , 5 in a row from either side......this will improve your whole game in a matter of one week.....Let me know how it works...it's done wonders for a lot of people I've worked with over the years.....Aloha
Click to expand...
 
CJ -- I shot some half-ball-aim spot shots this afternoon from 2 diamonds up and 1 diamond over, i.e., on the head string 12.5" off the side rail. Hitting the CB medium speed just inside of center, I had good success pocketing the balls. So I imagine that's why you have success from that spot -- you use a bit of inside.

With a center-ball hit, I undercut it every time from that location.
 
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Congruence

Hungarian said:
Thanks CJ. This is a very great drill. I never thougth about it. Been doing it and it's helping to get me lined up and consistant. I'm having a hard time putting my left foot exactly parallel. It's more comfortable for me to keep it a little short of parallel but I don't think that's too big of a deal. Right?


Your the best pal..

Mullet Mark in Houston...haha
Click to expand...

Getting better usually isn't "comfortable"....I suggest you put your left foot parallel to the Line of the Shot....if that's too uncomfortable then I recommend doing it MORE SO and opening it up until making it parallel becomes more natural...there's a reason for this, to aim with your body... if your body isn't in congruence to begin with it won't be easy for you....your body, eyes and cue need to align to the Line of the Shot. , only then will the Foundation be directly connected to your cue.
 
Inside information

Living Legend said:
i would think and i maybe wrong but applying english to this system would be the same as you would with all systems. I cant see a reason why it would be different?
Click to expand...

I force all those shots with a "touch of inside"....it's amazing what you can do with the inside of the ball because you can aim "thicker".....and you really never need to cue outside, unless you need to change the angle AFTER going to the rail....and this is needed less often than you would think without trying it. :idea:
 
cjssecrets4u2 said:
I force all those shots with a "touch of inside"....it's amazing what you can do with the inside of the ball because you can aim "thicker".....and you really never need to cue outside, unless you need to change the angle AFTER going to the rail....and this is needed less often than you would think without trying it. :idea:
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CJ-- I just wanted to take a moment to thank you. I think I totally understand what it is you're doing. At first, I think I was applying too much inside; but as you said, it's just a hair. This might take a little bit to master, but I really see the benefit of having the swing thought of a hair firmer stroke delivering a more solid line to the pocket.

I'm not sure if you mentioned this earlier--- where did you learn this from or did you figure that out on your own?

I'm starting to really like the concept. I think the secret is that initial alignment--- if you're perfect with the amount of thickness to the OB, you have a huge range of shot speeds that make the shot. And as you said, you're only cuing on one side of the CB.

Anyways, thank you for grinding out this discussion. There's prob a handful of people who "got it" and owe you for the info.

Dave
 
I am not sure where CJ learned the technique but I learned it 24 years ago from a friend of Eddie Taylor's here in Knoxville... I also learned a few things about twist banks and swerving thru the ball to apply BHE.... It's amazing to see the different techniques from the different parts of the country..... And doubly amazing the see old things brand new again....
 
cjssecrets4u2 said:
I force all those shots with a "touch of inside"....it's amazing what you can do with the inside of the ball because you can aim "thicker".....and you really never need to cue outside, unless you need to change the angle AFTER going to the rail....and this is needed less often than you would think without trying it. :idea:
Click to expand...

For thin cuts against the top rail, with the CB in the kitchen, 1&1/2 tips aimed at the edge of the OB works for me.
 
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