Angle of bridged veneer
- Thread starter digdug
- Start date
IMO, there is nothing more gratifying and more rewarding than 'finding out for yourself'.
You can ask here and eventually someone will give you a number, but what have you learned???
Not a damn thing other than how to copy. Wouldn't it be nice to know why they are cut at a certain angle??
Or would that be the follow-up question that seeks yet another spoon-fed response?
The problem with spoon-fed responses is that you will eventually become fat and lazy, incapable of any type of innovation.
People have forgotten how to think for themselves; or maybe they never knew how to in the first place.
I like LGSM3's response a lot because it's accurate. The answer you seek is dependent on other factors.
There is no 'one size fits all' answer here. Now it's up to you to figure out why.
You state "Been thinking" & "I thought". Son, you just ain't been thinking enough.
Thinking doesn't hurt and better yet, it's free. Use the gift you were given.
Now you want to know what machine is used to cut said angle.
How's this: what ever machine that gives you the results that are acceptable to you.
I can think of at least a 1/2 doz without breaking a sweat.
Given my response, you may find me to be offensive, rude and discourteous.
I'll lay claim to all of the above but I look at it as 'tough-love'.
I want all my fellow tradesmen to succeed.
Not because they asked the right questions but because they put in the effort.
The drawing-board awaits. Get busy.
KJ
You can ask here and eventually someone will give you a number, but what have you learned???
Not a damn thing other than how to copy. Wouldn't it be nice to know why they are cut at a certain angle??
Or would that be the follow-up question that seeks yet another spoon-fed response?
The problem with spoon-fed responses is that you will eventually become fat and lazy, incapable of any type of innovation.
People have forgotten how to think for themselves; or maybe they never knew how to in the first place.
I like LGSM3's response a lot because it's accurate. The answer you seek is dependent on other factors.
There is no 'one size fits all' answer here. Now it's up to you to figure out why.
You state "Been thinking" & "I thought". Son, you just ain't been thinking enough.
Thinking doesn't hurt and better yet, it's free. Use the gift you were given.
Now you want to know what machine is used to cut said angle.
How's this: what ever machine that gives you the results that are acceptable to you.
I can think of at least a 1/2 doz without breaking a sweat.
Given my response, you may find me to be offensive, rude and discourteous.
I'll lay claim to all of the above but I look at it as 'tough-love'.
I want all my fellow tradesmen to succeed.
Not because they asked the right questions but because they put in the effort.
The drawing-board awaits. Get busy.
KJ
The great thing about figuring out things such as this, is you will learn much more than just the simple answer your looking for. This is usually when innovation and creativity occur. Atleast thats true for me.
Learning and doing what others do means your probaby only going to be as good as they are.
Learning and doing what others do means your probaby only going to be as good as they are.
Sweet
Steve, very nice"first time" work.....I think the only time to ask for the anser and NOT! try trial and error is(WHEN CUTTING INTO THE HUMAN BODY) just my opinion.....RayWeeks
Steve, very nice"first time" work.....I think the only time to ask for the anser and NOT! try trial and error is(WHEN CUTTING INTO THE HUMAN BODY) just my opinion.....RayWeeks
Well, I'll bite seeing as no one else has.
Either our loyal readers or even quite possibly myself will get an education from this.
Steve, I don't agree with your statement: "On a 4 point cue it's always the same, no matter what the point angle."
If I'm wrong then I'll stand the hit. I'm a man and can handle anything that comes my way.
Let me first start my position by saying that I don't do points but I do know geometry.
A point, on it's face, is nothing more than an Isosceles triangle.
As it's height changes, so do the angles of it's base. That will also change the mitered angle of the bridge.
A triangle is a constant at 180*. As the point lengthens, the angle at the peak becomes more acute.
As that's happening, the angles of the base are becoming less acute,
ergo, the mitered angle of the bridge will or should change accordingly.
Another way to look at it is in it's extremes. A 12" point vs a 2" point.
Their base angles will be quite different. If you're using the same mitered angle of the bridge for both,
your bridge will have a tapered gap equal to the difference in the base angles.
My guess is that you knew your statement would be challenged. Why??? Because you wanted people to think.
That's not always an easy thing to do.
Thanx, KJ
i'm betting Steve knows better
everything changes everything....however, you can usually get away with 1/2 or even 1 degree...using paper veneer makes it harder to get away with. The above is an extreme example, but if the 46 degree miter was used on the short point then there would be huge alignment issue.
Angle of bridged venner.
I stand here hat in hand. I never drew it in cad. I just did 45 and never had any problems. But I will now admit I was wrong and at different angles
you should do different angles. As Jake's drawing shows, the longer the point,
the closer to 45 you are. But in actual practice, who can see one degree over .090 of an inch of travel. Let alone cut it.
If I had done a short point it would have bit me.
I stand here hat in hand. I never drew it in cad. I just did 45 and never had any problems. But I will now admit I was wrong and at different angles
you should do different angles. As Jake's drawing shows, the longer the point,
the closer to 45 you are. But in actual practice, who can see one degree over .090 of an inch of travel. Let alone cut it.
If I had done a short point it would have bit me.
Sorry Steve, thought you were bs'n, wasnt trying to correct you...i did a couple at 45 when the points were long and skinny and it worked out OK...not close to as good as yours. It wasnt until i did some different lenghts that i started to notice discrepancies
The correct angle for a miter will always be i/2 the intersecting angle.
I"m glad you did. never to smart or old to learn.
The moral of the story is that we're all here to learn.
You know some stuff, I know some stuff and this guy over here knows some stuff.
Collectively, we know quite a bit but no ONE knows it all.
We learn by sharing. All in all, it's well worth the price of admission.
Enjoy the show.
Thanx, KJ
You know some stuff, I know some stuff and this guy over here knows some stuff.
Collectively, we know quite a bit but no ONE knows it all.
We learn by sharing. All in all, it's well worth the price of admission.
Enjoy the show.
Thanx, KJ
Tap Tap tap to a wise man!!!!!
I think the same person wrote both of these! Maybe the corn cob fell out in between! I am fine with not just handing people the answers all the time but I do think if someone wants to learn you should provide the tools for them to do so.
the tool you use to cut the miter is far less signifcant than the fixture you need to hold them square and true. And then of course you have the same dilemna when cutting the cue to accept it
digdug, think about a 90 degree angle or to visualize, draw an L on paper. The left side of your L is your point and the bottom of the L is your bridge. To make an even cut on a 90, you would use a 45 degree angle right. When you lean the left side of the L to make points, the angle will change. I hope you understand my explanation.
Donnie
Donnie