5/16 14 pin

[buddha162]

When a customer asks me what's the best tip, ferrule, shaft, joint, etc., I tell them the same thing: the best is what works for you.

I understand what you're saying, and I think it's possible that you're correct when it comes to joint config. However, I think there's also a possibility that certain joint configurations are superior to others, either in terms of transmitting feel/tone or energy. I'm interested in anyone who can give a reasoned argument for or against any joint type.

The late Paul Fanelli told me he aimed to build a "quiet" cue. He didn't want to hear pings or pops or any extraneous feedback. Knowing that he took a very holistic approach to cue building, I assume that his joint config (3/8-10 flat faced) was incorporated in part to achieve the "hit" he's looking for in his cues. It's no surprise that of the dozen or so Fanelli's I've hit with, they all retained that quiet, solid feel.

Now I don't know how much, if any, the role of the joint played in his cues. I do know that I desire a more "lively" hit, and that the cues I gravitate toward turn out to be either piloted ivory or steel. When done right, they generate a "pop" or "ping" unlike any flat-faced cues I've played with. I could be completely wrong, but in any event I'm very interested in the topic.

I apologize for my rude post. It was off the cuff for sure.

-roger

 

[Michael Webb]

I started off using 3/8 10 pins, but switched to 5/16 14 a few months ago and i like them much better. I still use the bigger pin on some sneakys, but if im making a fancier cue, i use the smaller pin. A couple years ago i overheard a conversation between a local cuemaker and a few cue guys and they were all bashing the 5/16 pin, and praising the radial and big 3/8 pins. I didnt understand it then, and i dont understand it now. Is there an advantage to using the bigger pins? If the 5/16 pins were good enough for a lot of legendary and famous cue makers, why would people knock these pins?

Joe

Hi Joe:
There is not one joint screw that is broke if you have the knowledge and tooling to use it properly. I read the whole thread, unfortunately, (lol) I try to respect every one's opinions so I won't comment because at the end of the day, it's all about what your comfortable working with and offering in your cues, as long as you believe in what you are doing. Some times it's easier to knock what you don't understand, and or, what you can't do. Joint screws fall into this category. If you have the proper screw desired for your joint and more importantly the right tap to create the female receiving part. You can use whatever you want. 5/16X14 and 3/8X10 vary thousandths in size and pitch. It'll drive you nuts if you don't have the correct taps.

 

[JoeyInCali]

Hi Joe:
There is not one joint screw that is broke if you have the knowledge and tooling to use it properly. I read the whole thread, unfortunately, (lol) I try to respect every one's opinions so I won't comment because at the end of the day, it's all about what your comfortable working with and offering in your cues, as long as you believe in what you are doing. Some times it's easier to knock what you don't understand, and or, what you can't do. Joint screws fall into this category. If you have the proper screw desired for your joint and more importantly the right tap to create the female receiving part. You can use whatever you want. 5/16X14 and 3/8X10 vary thousandths in size and pitch. It'll drive you nuts if you don't have the correct taps.

You know they still make joint pins with alignment barrel and no threads at the bottom.

 

[Michael Webb]

You know they still make joint pins with alignment barrel and no threads at the bottom.

Unfortunately, you are correct. What can I say, absolutely nothing without it being insulting, But you'll never see one in my cues. I like screws threaded all the way and have no need for the alignment barrel either, But you already knew that. The only variation to date is the cues I build with the uni-loc quick release because I haven't found anyone else to make them yet. When I can't get the ball screw threaded all the way anymore, I'll quit using it. My cues, my rules. You knew that too.

 

[iusedtoberich]

As a player and former local repairman, I like the 5/16-14 threads the best. It's purely personal, but I like the feel of screwing the shaft on smoothly by twisting it in my fingers. It feels like a fine instrument. This is in contrast to many variations of the big pins I've seen. Everything from a tight fit that requires two clenched hands to move, to worn out wood shaft threads.

It just feels nicer to me threading that machine screw into its brass insert.

Purely personal preference.

 

[cue maker]

What difference do you feel?

What difference do you feel?

A 5/16 pin and insert weighs pretty close to what a 3/8 pin does so the balance change is minimal. But the feel is different. How can I prove it? Probably can't but it is true whether anyone believes it or not.

 

[xpatcan1]

I think the 3/8 pin looks nicer especially if it's polished brass........... but that's just me.

Of course, when the cue is screwed together, you can't see it...LOL

The function is the same.

Kim

its funny i think the 14 pin is much nicer looking

 

[jschelin99]

I understand what you're saying, and I think it's possible that you're correct when it comes to joint config. However, I think there's also a possibility that certain joint configurations are superior to others, either in terms of transmitting feel/tone or energy. I'm interested in anyone who can give a reasoned argument for or against any joint type.

The late Paul Fanelli told me he aimed to build a "quiet" cue. He didn't want to hear pings or pops or any extraneous feedback. Knowing that he took a very holistic approach to cue building, I assume that his joint config (3/8-10 flat faced) was incorporated in part to achieve the "hit" he's looking for in his cues. It's no surprise that of the dozen or so Fanelli's I've hit with, they all retained that quiet, solid feel.

Now I don't know how much, if any, the role of the joint played in his cues. I do know that I desire a more "lively" hit, and that the cues I gravitate toward turn out to be either piloted ivory or steel. When done right, they generate a "pop" or "ping" unlike any flat-faced cues I've played with. I could be completely wrong, but in any event I'm very interested in the topic.

I apologize for my rude post. It was off the cuff for sure.

-roger

No problem. I didn't start things off very well, either. It's just that the same old threads about tip X vs. tip Y, or shaft A vs. shaft B, or chalk 1 vs. chalk 2 get kind of old after a while. If the argument is strictly over subjective non-measurable feelings, then we're all just wasting our time. We might as well argue over chocolate vs. vanilla. But, if the items being debated have objective scientifically-measurable characteristics, then maybe we can actually get somewhere.