Wood loosing its color

mortuarymike-nv

mortuarymike-nv

mortuarymike-nv
Silver Member
I have noticed that wood seems to change color.

From a fresh cut to final product I only wish that I could retain all of the woods natural color.

Cocobolo is one of the woods that I have a issue with color loss

I would like to be able to do natural wood color , no stains or oils just a clear finish.

Another wood that I have found that changes color is Camatillo rosewood .

I have no idea how to deal with Camatillo rosewood < CRW>

The wood drips with a oily violet color, if you sand it or even wipe the wood off with a clean dry cotton rag , it transfers color to everything it touches, even into itself .

Thank you in advance.

MMike
 
Mike I know that acrylic glass protects from rays maybe just a thick acrylic coat would do the same?
 
wood

the kidd said:
Mike I know that acrylic glass protects from rays maybe just a thick acrylic coat would do the same?
Click to expand...

I guess I am missing something or not explaining it right.

When I am sanding it seems to make the wood color darker or dull in color

And either covering up or taking away the natural wood color .

Is there any way to prep the wood and not have this problem.

I use air and a vac .


MMike
 
Both of these rosewoods are going to change color and the best you can hope for is to delay the change a little. I've seen some cocobolo that only changes a little but all the camatillo I've ever seen goes dark. Finish won't stop it.
 
Wood bleeding

Instead of using Camatillo RW use Camelia RW. It does not bleed like Camatillo and maintains it's vivid colors. On Cocobolo the only thing I have found that
works is a lot of thin coats of CA. When you wipe the wood with a alcohol
rag and the rag does not change color the wood is sealed enough for finishing.
 
I guess I must be lucky because my camatillo rosewood cue has not bled or changed color at all. I have been in possession of it for more than a year so I guess I'll wait another year and see if it does... How long does it take to change color BTW?
 
ca

QMAKER said:
Instead of using Camatillo RW use Camelia RW. It does not bleed like Camatillo and maintains it's vivid colors. On Cocobolo the only thing I have found that
works is a lot of thin coats of CA. When you wipe the wood with a alcohol
rag and the rag does not change color the wood is sealed enough for finishing.
Click to expand...


CA
Not trying to be a smart ass but I really don't know.

I have done epoxy over CA and it peeled like a banana
I have done lacquer or ca and I get little yellow spots that seem to appear 2 or 3 days after rubbing them out.

What finish can I use over ca?

MMike
 
Finish over CA

mortuarymike-nv said:
CA
Not trying to be a smart ass but I really don't know.

I have done epoxy over CA and it peeled like a banana
I have done lacquer or ca and I get little yellow spots that seem to appear 2 or 3 days after rubbing them out.

What finish can I use over ca?

MMike
Click to expand...

I use an oil finish that is hand rubbed. If you want to try it here is the drill.
1. Apply thin CA with a small piece of blue 3M shop towel. Use just a few drops on the towel and wipe longwise--wood NOT turning, Sand with 320, wipe w/CA, sand, wipe. Keep going until you get a smooth flat surface
2. Apply in the same method as above Mylars Sanding Cellouse Sealer, cut 50/50 with lacquer thinner. Sand with 320, reapply until it looks almost like a finished product.
3. Sand with 0000 steel wool to break the shine. Apply a few drops of Birch-Wood Casy gunstock oil to the 3M towel and wipe on in long strokes. Wood is NOT turning. Keep applying until the desired finish is achieved, usually about 6 coats. Wait for each coat to dry before applying next. Wait 24 hours and LIGHTLY sand the last coat with the 0000 steel wool. Reapply 2 or 3 thin coats oil. You should now have a perfectly smooth finish that is thin, durable and easily repairable. Let dry 24 hours and you can sparingly wax with a hard wax such as Cueman's.
 
first chance I get I will do a test

QMAKER said:
I use an oil finish that is hand rubbed. If you want to try it here is the drill.
1. Apply thin CA with a small piece of blue 3M shop towel. Use just a few drops on the towel and wipe longwise--wood NOT turning, Sand with 320, wipe w/CA, sand, wipe. Keep going until you get a smooth flat surface
2. Apply in the same method as above Mylars Sanding Cellouse Sealer, cut 50/50 with lacquer thinner. Sand with 320, reapply until it looks almost like a finished product.
3. Sand with 0000 steel wool to break the shine. Apply a few drops of Birch-Wood Casy gunstock oil to the 3M towel and wipe on in long strokes. Wood is NOT turning. Keep applying until the desired finish is achieved, usually about 6 coats. Wait for each coat to dry before applying next. Wait 24 hours and LIGHTLY sand the last coat with the 0000 steel wool. Reapply 2 or 3 thin coats oil. You should now have a perfectly smooth finish that is thin, durable and easily repairable. Let dry 24 hours and you can sparingly wax with a hard wax such as Cueman's.
Click to expand...


Thank you
I will start to testing different methods to improve the wood color in my work.
MMike
 
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