ask the risk of getting ridiculed
- Thread starter bauercrew
- Start date
If im understanding you correctly what you can do is true up a piece of delrin rod and drill/bore and tap 3/8-10 threads for the length of pin you want sticking out and use it for setting your pin.
I can screw Mine in by hand most of the time too, and prefer that as to have better control over the Hydraulic pressure, but sometimes they tighten up a little more near the bottom, and I'll just use a mandrel or something close at hand that fits the pin.. If installing a pin You should already have the correct size tap, so making something from another material as was suggested with the use of Delrin, should not be an issue. You can always use a thick piece of leather to protect the pin and use vice grips if You want a quick way to get the pin in there, although there are much better ways then that, and It doesn't take much time to make something up. Some people may prefer to fit the pins so tight that something is definitely needed other then hand tightening, if the fit is that tight though, then I would advise to take proper precautions for glue relief. I blew the forearm out of the first or second cue that I built, and I remember it was very discouraging to say the least. I have made sure I don't screw the pins in too fast every since. I tighten a few threads let the pressure equalize, screw a few more threads, wait again, and so on....
My tooling for 3/8-10 works really well for me, I don't have to fool with bumping the pin in or anything like that. I screw them in and they are nuts, so I can use slow set epoxy without the fear of the pin running out on Me when I walk away and let It cure over night. That gives me plenty of time to screw the pin in slowly without the epoxy kicking off half way through threads. I also prefer the slow set because of the long term durability.
My tooling for 3/8-10 works really well for me, I don't have to fool with bumping the pin in or anything like that. I screw them in and they are nuts, so I can use slow set epoxy without the fear of the pin running out on Me when I walk away and let It cure over night. That gives me plenty of time to screw the pin in slowly without the epoxy kicking off half way through threads. I also prefer the slow set because of the long term durability.
Do you have problems with the center barrel pins running out as they cure also? I know one cm that puts a live center in the end of the pin and let's it spin while the epoxy sets. He said it helped the run out issue. I just don't see how with a tight fit on the barrel would let it move.
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ok.... in the chance of getting ridiculed.... I am putting up my procedure for installing a pin.. Every one has their own method ... this is mine.
My first cue, I put the pin in several times to get it straight. I have done the last 35 cues using the procedure below.
use any 3/8 – 10 thread, center drilled pin
Indicate and zero the runout of butt in lathe.
Face off the joint and Center drill.
1/4in drill, 2 ¼ deep.
5/16in drill, 2 ¼ deep.
W drill 1 ¼ deep.
Tap several times with Atlas 3/8 – 10 tap.
Grind glue relief on pin and hand fit screw to loose finger fit.
the pin needs to rattle and be sloppy in the hole.. if not retap until it is
Heat 5 minute epoxy glue before mixing. (6 gm total)
I mix in a cup and wiegh it on a scale
Remove butt from lathe and put a drink mixer stick to the bottom of the hole
the drink mixer straw lets the air escape so the epoxy can run to the bottom of the hole
fill hole ½ full of epoxy.
slowly pull out the straw while holding your finger over the end to seal it
this sucks the epoxy down
hand screw in the pin to depth – 1 ¼ to 1 1/8 sticking out. Never bottom out the pin
you might have to wait and screw a little at a time to let the pressure relieve
hurry.... I use 5 minute epoxy
Put butt back in lathe and indicate and zero run out.
Put live center in pin center
spin slowly
clean up if necessary
Leave in lathe until glue is set.
dead nuts every time
Kim
My first cue, I put the pin in several times to get it straight. I have done the last 35 cues using the procedure below.
use any 3/8 – 10 thread, center drilled pin
Indicate and zero the runout of butt in lathe.
Face off the joint and Center drill.
1/4in drill, 2 ¼ deep.
5/16in drill, 2 ¼ deep.
W drill 1 ¼ deep.
Tap several times with Atlas 3/8 – 10 tap.
Grind glue relief on pin and hand fit screw to loose finger fit.
the pin needs to rattle and be sloppy in the hole.. if not retap until it is
Heat 5 minute epoxy glue before mixing. (6 gm total)
I mix in a cup and wiegh it on a scale
Remove butt from lathe and put a drink mixer stick to the bottom of the hole
the drink mixer straw lets the air escape so the epoxy can run to the bottom of the hole
fill hole ½ full of epoxy.
slowly pull out the straw while holding your finger over the end to seal it
this sucks the epoxy down
hand screw in the pin to depth – 1 ¼ to 1 1/8 sticking out. Never bottom out the pin
you might have to wait and screw a little at a time to let the pressure relieve
hurry.... I use 5 minute epoxy
Put butt back in lathe and indicate and zero run out.
Put live center in pin center
spin slowly
clean up if necessary
Leave in lathe until glue is set.
dead nuts every time
Kim
If you want to use the jam nut method then just take a one inch or longer piece of any plastic, brass or aluminum and drill a 5/16 hole all the way through it. Then run your 3/8-10 tap through it and now you have a jam coupling. Use it with your regular 3/8-10 lathe pin and you have a fool proof installer.
I can't speak for the barreled pins. My understanding is that they are supposed to be somewhat self centering, but I could be wrong. The pins I use are just standard full threaded ss 3/8-10 that I slightly modify on My small metal lathe. I center drill both ends, turn My own flat nose on the outer end, and polish the threads that will be sticking out to as close to a mirror finish as I can achieve. I don't polish the area of the threads to be glued into the cue though.
I believe My success with them can probably be attributed to the tooling that I am using. Other then the center drill, My tooling consists of 2 drills and 2 reamers, although I can sometimes skip the last drill and move from the small reamer straight to the final size reamer. The reamer really acts like a boring bar for the most part, if I didn't have that then I would be boring the final hole through more conventional means. After that I use a piloted tap. I have a standard tap that I can chase with If the fit is too tight, but I usually only have to use that on some shafts, depending on material. Like phenolic for example.
Nothing wrong with them or doing what works for the individual, although I don't always take all of the steps that Kim mentioned, but one thing mentioned does ring true from My experiences,. I don't force the pin to bottom out, as in the past that seemed to cock the pin at times and throw It out. I noticed that the pin runs true if I don't snug It completely down. Only thing I can figure is that snugging them down can sometimes cock the pin out of center. Not sure If it's the coarse threads or what, just something I have noticed over My years.
I have used the live center method that you mention before, and at times It worked, but results just weren't consistent enough for me to do that every time. That's not to say that It couldn't work well with someone Else's setup though.