coreing auto feed for my delux

desi2960

desi2960

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
i got tried of cranking the screw style tailstock when coreing, so i rube goldberg this set up. it is a gear reduction 24 volt 2 amp dc reversable motor, a 110 ac to 24 volt dc 10 amp converter, an forward, reverse, and off switch. a few pulleys, a sewing machine belt and a homemade bracket. i made the bracket from a piece of aluminum angle. it was easy to cut and i had to make many adjustments to make everything fit. i will replace the bracket with one made from steel as i now have a template.
it is setting on this end of the delux just for the photos.
i do need help to finish this project, i can now core very soft woods. the unit will turn at approx one revolution per second, but thats too fast for harder woods in my opinion. i want to install a speed controler, but don't really know what type to use and where to install it.

all criticisms, suggestions, and comments welcomed.
 

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Check your DC control board to see if there are provisions for a potentiometer.
If not, get a board that provides them.
Plan B, talk to an electronics guy to see if one can be retrofit to your board.

HTHs, KJ
 
can't change pulleys

i am really cramped for space, so i cannot change the size of pulleys, and if i went to different size pulleys i would need a different length belt, this belt was hard enough to find.
 
thanks for all the emails and pm's

i think a variable control switch or a light dimmer switch, or anything along that line will work
 
desi2960 said:
i am really cramped for space, so i cannot change the size of pulleys, and if i went to different size pulleys i would need a different length belt, this belt was hard enough to find.
Click to expand...

When you get bigger diameter pulleys , you can use a 3/16 or 1/4 inch section O ring for a belt. I use them a lot on stuff that I want the set up to slip instead of stalling the motor.
 
Why use the tailstock by it's self? Put the tailstock in front of the carraige, and use the powerfeed for the carraige to push the tailstock and use the speed control on that? Just leave the tension knob just loose enough for the tailstock to have motion towards the headstock, without having too much play where it tips forward. It is possible.
I use a tattoo power supply for the power feed and it has a variable knob to control the speed to what ever is desired. My carraige has a QC toolpost that lines up to engage the handle of the tailstock you have pictured, and it pushes it smoothly thru the whole piece, don't have to stop every 2 inches and move the tailstock further down for another 2", etc. If using the stock toolpost, just gotta make a piece that fits that will do the same.
Just my thoughts,
Dave
 
Tommy-D said:
No one has tried mounting that type of tailstock ON the carriage? Tommy D.
Click to expand...

The quick top of the head answer would be, it's too tall and would require all removable slides to be removed from the carraige and then this placed, then the carraige would be just for this operation, and would probably still require machining the tailstock base even more. Then aligning it and locking it down. Then to use, one would have to remove the normal carraige and replace it with this one. Would probably be easier to build a holder that fits on the toolpost to hold the gundrill, but then the aligning, etc. That's why I do it the way I described above, much simpler, IMO. and a hell of a lot less machining and fine tuning, resulting in more coring..:grin:
DAve
 
I figured there was some kind of physical limitation,but had the basic idea for years. If I had access to a mill,I'd have already tried it.

It seems like a bigger,possibly all steel QCTP with a custom toolholder for a MT2-3 drill chuck would be a viable option too. I've got an almost unused,with slight surface rust Jacobs JKT-130 sitting in my box I've been DYING to find a use for ;). Tommy D.
 
Dave38 said:
Why use the tailstock by it's self? Put the tailstock in front of the carraige, and use the powerfeed for the carraige to push the tailstock and use the speed control on that? Just leave the tension knob just loose enough for the tailstock to have motion towards the headstock, without having too much play where it tips forward. It is possible.
I use a tattoo power supply for the power feed and it has a variable knob to control the speed to what ever is desired. My carraige has a QC toolpost that lines up to engage the handle of the tailstock you have pictured, and it pushes it smoothly thru the whole piece, don't have to stop every 2 inches and move the tailstock further down for another 2", etc. If using the stock toolpost, just gotta make a piece that fits that will do the same.
Just my thoughts,
Dave
Click to expand...

Dave...... How long does it take you to core a forearm using this method ?? How slow do you have to go ??

Lee Casto
 
dave38

few months back i had a thread that described exactly what you said, about putting the tailstock in front of the toolpost and using the screwdrive on the newer hightower for the feed. i was told by hightower that the lathe was not designed to use it that way and doing so might cause damage, i went a different direction, i would rather blow up a $59.00 dc motor than a $3000.00 lathe
 
desi2960 said:
few months back i had a thread that described exactly what you said, about putting the tailstock in front of the toolpost and using the screwdrive on the newer hightower for the feed. i was told by hightower that the lathe was not designed to use it that way and doing so might cause damage, i went a different direction, i would rather blow up a $59.00 dc motor than a $3000.00 lathe
Click to expand...

I understand. My deluxe is an old one from when Chris was in MO, and just has the motor and pinion setup. If anything breaks, it won't be too expensive.

Lee, about the speed, I'm not sure, I haven't timed it yet with my new motor setup. The old Penn controller would kick the breaker about every 2-3 inches in maple so it would take awhile. The new controller/old Penn motor works great now. I also step drill, .680 first, then .750. I'll do a few pieces this weekend and get back to you.
Dave
 
If I'm not mistaking. I thought I remember reading awhile back that Kim uses the same method to do his coring. Maybe he'll see this eventually and chime in.

Lee Casto
 
desi2960 said:
few months back i had a thread that described exactly what you said, about putting the tailstock in front of the toolpost and using the screwdrive on the newer hightower for the feed. i was told by hightower that the lathe was not designed to use it that way and doing so might cause damage, i went a different direction, i would rather blow up a $59.00 dc motor than a $3000.00 lathe
Click to expand...

It is not the lathe I would worry about. It is the coring drill itself. Pushing it along with the old style and new style of powerfeed is something many have done. I just like being able to feel it when a problem starts as carbide is brittle.
 
Dirtbmw20 said:
If I'm not mistaking. I thought I remember reading awhile back that Kim uses the same method to do his coring. Maybe he'll see this eventually and chime in.

Lee Casto
Click to expand...

I core strictly by hand feed. I just feel that I have more control of feed rates in different woods. I spin my deluxe with a 1/2 hp AC motor when coring. I core an 18in piece in about 5 minutes............ why should I dabble in trying to make up a power feed??? It's not worth the effort....

Kim,
 
whammo57 said:
I core strictly by hand feed. I just feel that I have more control of feed rates in different woods. I spin my deluxe with a 1/2 hp AC motor when coring. I core an 18in piece in about 5 minutes............ why should I dabble in trying to make up a power feed??? It's not worth the effort....

Kim,
Click to expand...

Sorry, obviously I was mistaking.

Lee Casto
 
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