phenolic break tip glazing

Nuts4Tascarellas

Nuts4Tascarellas

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
When I put my cues back in my case, I wipe the chalk off the tips with a napkin. I have noticed that my break cues with phenolic tips get glazed over. Smooth and shiny. They won't hold chalk. Has anyone else had this problem? If so - what do you do to fix it?
 
Glazing should really be referred to as burnishing and any tip made of a fine fiber will eventually glaze/burnish..Happens because the abrasives in the chalk keep rupturing and they become finer and finer with each hit until more chalk is applied...

Chalking more often tends to slow the glazing/burnishing down some but it will not eliminate it....

I use a small piece of sand paper on my phenolic about once a month... When I actually used to play with a phenolic tip I would barely touch it up before every session...

Took about a year to wear out a BK2 tip playing with it several times a week and keeping it holding chalk..

Chris
 
blackboarowner said:
When I put my cues back in my case, I wipe the chalk off the tips with a napkin. I have noticed that my break cues with phenolic tips get glazed over. Smooth and shiny. They won't hold chalk. Has anyone else had this problem? If so - what do you do to fix it?
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It's phenolic...in essence the same material the balls are made of. How scuffed up do you think you are going to get a phenolic tip?

FWIW, I rarely ever chalk my phenolic break tips, and almost never miscue...and if I do it was because my stroke was off. I have never felt the need to go that far from center (sure, I use a little low English) on my break shot...not enough to worry about miscues.

When I do chalk my break tips...I just accept what chalk I can get on them.

Now.....my Samsara tips (leather)...that's a whole different story. They CAN be scuffed.

Maniac
 
chalk

I use really fine chalk too. Kamui. After one night of play the tip is burnished and slick. It's driving me nuts.
 
Maniac said:
It's phenolic...in essence the same material the balls are made of. How scuffed up do you think you are going to get a phenolic tip?

FWIW, I rarely ever chalk my phenolic break tips, and almost never miscue...and if I do it was because my stroke was off. I have never felt the need to go that far from center (sure, I use a little low English) on my break shot...not enough to worry about miscues.

When I do chalk my break tips...I just accept what chalk I can get on them.

Now.....my Samsara tips (leather)...that's a whole different story. They CAN be scuffed.

Maniac
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Most pheolic tips are not the same phenolic as the balls themselves.. Usually they run around 90 on a shore D where the balls would be at 100... This means they will take some scuffing just not alot... For the BK2 tips I would get a nice crosshatch but not any real raised materials.. If I wanted raised materials I would actually use a tip pick and work the entire surface... I would only use the pick occasionally since the sandpaper usually sufficed.....
 
Buy an On Target Tips Jump Break/Super Hard.

blackboarowner said:
When I put my cues back in my case, I wipe the chalk off the tips with a napkin. I have noticed that my break cues with phenolic tips get glazed over. Smooth and shiny. They won't hold chalk. Has anyone else had this problem? If so - what do you do to fix it?
Click to expand...

The material On Target Tips use for the Jump Break is almost as hard as phenolic but doesn't have that problem with glazing over. It grips the ball good and slams the balls hard even when using spin.

Jaden
 
blackboarowner said:
How about a G 10 material tip? Is that different than a phenolic?
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Pretty much the same. They can be a little harder, but more brittle, so at the least they would be just as prone to the glazing and worse, possibly cracking.

I tested G10 with my LD tip design and it tends to crack. Although in that application it isn't solid all the way through, so it doesn't necessarily have to crack as a whole tip.

In fact the tip on my current playing cue is a combination of two types of leather and G10.

It cracks after prolonged use, but with my new design it doesn't really matter, it still plays great. I'm not going to sell them with the G10 though because having it crack isn't acceptable to me.

Jaden
 
blackboarowner said:
How about a G 10 material tip? Is that different than a phenolic?
Click to expand...

It's actually a harder material than most of the other materials used... g10 is a glass/epoxy while most phenolics are linen based but there are glass based and paper based as well.. In most instances the g10 is harder than the other materials and as such is very hard to keep scored for it to hold chalk.......

For a break tip I see a definite risk for cueball damage from g10 or g11.. As they approach 100 in hardness but ball collision is between 2 balls both of which are 100 so maybe I am a little out of line in saying that...

The phenolics as I stated earlier usually come in around a 90 so on a quality cueball you should see no fracturing.... Several years ago they banned phenolics in the BCA after a national tournament had a ton of cueball show up damaged at the end of play... The balls are believed to have been suspect and possibly not true aramiths and the ban was later lifted....

Chris
 
you have to dress the tip just like any other tip.
i use a file but i'm told the it's george tip tool is best.
 
There ya go, RJB has a cute doggy and a good way to do it.
The grit in the Willard is pretty fine, you could roll it or scuff a bit with it.
That or dress with a fine file like mentioned is ok too. Scuff with some fine paper.
Specially if you have a G-10. Pretty hard stuff so a fine file won't hurt it.


The Kamui chalk will also do the same for your playing tip as well, least I found that it did.
 
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