Which type of cue and tip is best for high-powered shooting?

Power and accuracy come from the shooter not the cue. Of you aren't happy with these, replace the shooter, not the cue.
 
For HPS (''High Powered Shooting''), I would agree with the others, and go with Cdryden's suggestion above. I think that in that post you will find all the info you need for PPWAKHTP (''Playing Pool Without Actually Knowing How To Play'').

Btw, I love your threads. Regards and good luck P&P.
 
sfleinen said:
And why would you want to do that?
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I use them when:
- all available shots have less than 50% of success if played with pocket speed
- considering the table situation and the opponent's capabilities, there's no risk of doing significant damage to myself (like pocketing the 8 or leaving a situation where the opponent could run out), and no point in playing a safety
- the general table situation (positions of both mine and the opponent's balls, possible order of pocketing etc.) could use a little rearranging

If all of the above are true, I'll either:
1. go for a pocket but with greatly increased power, so that ball could fall in somewhere else if I miss, or
2. I'll blast apart the largest cluster of my balls, cause something has to drop
 
Push&Pool said:
I use them when:
- all available shots have less than 50% of success if played with pocket speed
- considering the table situation and the opponent's capabilities, there's no risk of doing significant damage to myself (like pocketing the 8 or leaving a situation where the opponent could run out), and no point in playing a safety
- the general table situation (positions of both mine and the opponent's balls, possible order of pocketing etc.) could use a little rearranging

If all of the above are true, I'll either:
1. go for a pocket but with greatly increased power, so that ball could fall in somewhere else if I miss, or
2. I'll blast apart the largest cluster of my balls, cause something has to drop
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See, Sean?:shakehead::yeah::thud::sad::yikes::thud:
 
Push&Pool said:
By "high power" I meant slamming the CB as hard as possible while maintaining most of the accuracy. More like breaking, but for use in-game.
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Like...... wow.....

Push&Pool said:
I use them when:
- all available shots have less than 50% of success if played with pocket speed
- considering the table situation and the opponent's capabilities, there's no risk of doing significant damage to myself (like pocketing the 8 or leaving a situation where the opponent could run out), and no point in playing a safety
- the general table situation (positions of both mine and the opponent's balls, possible order of pocketing etc.) could use a little rearranging

If all of the above are true, I'll either:
1. go for a pocket but with greatly increased power, so that ball could fall in somewhere else if I miss, or
2. I'll blast apart the largest cluster of my balls, cause something has to drop
Click to expand...

..... or you execute a defensive shot

But if you're serious (and something tells me you are), I would suggest that you search out a shaft made of the densest, heaviest wood you can find, the stuff guys hate to put on their lathes, or....
I recall some years ago a local pool hall had actual aluminum cues for sale. They were effortless and gave almost no feedback whatsoever. To me it reminded me of an aluminum baseball bat. I remember using an aluminum bat in college, you could swing right the ball and never feel a thing but the bat was so responsive you could count on about 10% - 20% more distance / power, or more. Perhaps you could commission an aluminum shaft. I don't know that it would legal anywhere but in the APA, but I'm guessing that wouldn't be an issue. I know there is a local company that works in aluminum, I'm sure there is local one where you are that you can purchase a rod, about 30" X what? About 5/8 or 3/4"? I bet you could find someone to put some sort of taper on it and someone with a lathe could fashion a tenon if you thought you even needed a ferrule. If nothing else I bet you'd have a monster j/b shaft.
 
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Celophanewrap said:
Like...... wow.....



..... or you execute a defensive shot

But if you're serious (and something tells me you are), I would suggest that you search out a shaft made of the densest, heaviest wood you can find, the stuff guys hate to put on their lathes, or....
I recall some years ago a local pool hall had actual aluminum cues for sale. They were effortless and gave almost no feedback whatsoever. To me it reminded me of an aluminum baseball bat. I remember using an aluminum bat in college, you could swing right the ball and never feel a thing but the bat was so responsive you could count on about 10% - 20% more distance / power, or more. Perhaps you could commission an aluminum shaft. I don't know that it would legal anywhere but in the APA, but I'm guessing that wouldn't be an issue. I know there is a local company that works in aluminum, I'm sure there is local one where you are that you can purchase a rod, about 30" X what? About 5/8 or 3/4"? I bet you could find someone to put some sort of taper on it and someone with a lathe could fashion a tenon if you thought you even needed a ferrule. If nothing else I bet you'd have a monster j/b shaft.
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I said "when there's no need for a safety" xD thanks for the idea but wouldn't an aluminum cue be too light?
 
Push&Pool said:
I said "when there's no need for a safety" xD thanks for the idea but wouldn't an aluminum cue be too light?
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My bad, I missed the safety thing in your post, but to tell you the truth I've never even considered that. I couldn't imagine a time that I couldn't even conceive of a thought that I couldn't put my opponent in a worse place. I had times when I couldn't make it happen, when I executed a defensive shot poorly but never a time when I couldn't even think of one. If I needed to, I think I could blast the ball plenty hard enough to go several rails and possibly go in somewhere. Maybe I'll try that, I know people that seems to work just fine for.
A solid piece of aluminum too light? I suspect there are different grades of aluminum, I would think many of them would be plenty heavy?
Most shafts are what, about 4 oz? and roughly 29" - 30" long? generally about 22 mm at the joint? I just weighed a little less that 1 ft of an aluminum rod that was about 22.1.mm, it weighed just under 12oz. I think an aluminum shaft would probably be plenty heavy, maybe too heavy.
 
Highmiles said:
Johnson. No others compare at ramming.
Always specify a stiff Johnson, and I have never needed a tip replacement on mine, because it is very long lasting..
Over the years it has developed a slight taper roll, but I have lived with it for a long time, with no aiming problems.
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:lmao::rotflmao::rotflmao1:

(+1 to you too Chris ! ) :killingme::rotflmao1::help:
 
billy said:
:)

summary : it's not the arrow, it's the indian

hope this helps
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This statement gets said a lot, but not all arrows suit and fly with all Indians.
That's why many made there own, including there bows because of wingspan
and drawing power. A good bow and arrow made for better and accurate shooting.
 
To withstand that kind of repeated shock, you really need a cue made of the best quality materials,
or it's at risk of falling apart. You don't want cheap materials like graphite.

I would recommend a Black Boar or Southwest cue with a Tiger Onyx tip.
 
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