presuming all tables within a comparison are set up correctly and utilize high quality parts
is it even possible for them to play differently?
is it even possible for them to play differently?
do certain tables really play better..or even different than others?
- Thread starter smashmouth
- Start date
Presuming all cars within a comparison are set up correctly and utilize high quality parts
Is it even possible for them to play differently?
If A=B and B=C, does C = a ridiculous query?
Edit: Oh yeah, a follow up question. Which rail profile do you think would suit the table I'm setting up under water? I'm thinking K66.
Edit: Oh yeah, a follow up question. Which rail profile do you think would suit the table I'm setting up under water? I'm thinking K66.
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I think like anything else, some people make a bigger deal out of small differences than others. In general, if you set up most "quality" slate tables with the same cloth, they will play very similarly at first. The differences in the better commercial tables and just a basic table is that the commercial table will probably stay that way longer. There is certainly a difference in how some tables will play based on how there pockets are cut, and how the shelves are set up that will certainly also affect the way the table plays, but that is more personal preference than a quality issue. Commercial tables often have wider rails too.
When you start to compare quality brand tables to cheaper slate tables (with non-quality parts) that look the like the quality brand tables, the difference can be a little more noticeable, although the average household banger probably won't know the difference. Those differences will become greater over time also.
Then you have a quality table versus a non-slate table which is where you start comparing apples to oranges, although the average Joe who knows nothing about pool, still probably wouldn't know the difference, at least initially.
When you start to compare quality brand tables to cheaper slate tables (with non-quality parts) that look the like the quality brand tables, the difference can be a little more noticeable, although the average household banger probably won't know the difference. Those differences will become greater over time also.
Then you have a quality table versus a non-slate table which is where you start comparing apples to oranges, although the average Joe who knows nothing about pool, still probably wouldn't know the difference, at least initially.
Of course. Slate thickness and weight of the table can be felt. Some have better rail connection systems and feel different when you bank a ball or even just position play. The design on the rail tops and trim can can make a difference.
The old Gold Crowns that are so coveted in many respects can actually interfere with play due to the pocket designs. The corner castings can actually become obstacles. Over shinny reflective rails or rails that are very narrow like found on many furniture style tables can be difficult to bridge on.
If you really nitpick you can find many differences that are pluses and minuses. Even skirts on some tables can be in the way of you legs on some shots or huge corner mounted square legs. I once caught my foot under one of those legs moving around the table almost breaking my toe. I had to get an xray.
There's absolutely a difference in playability. Pocket angle, slate thickness and construction, the cabinet it's all built around, cloth, rail construction, rubber on the rails, the surface the entire table sits on....all make a difference. As does where the table is located, the humidity, air conditioning, heat, type of heat etc. I once played table tennis competitively and we did a test where we took a table and put it on a hard wood floor and tested how high the ball would bounce from a given height. Then we put the same table on a carpeted floor and tested again.....the table that was on the hardwood floor consistently produced a higher bounce to the ball and that's only with a TABLE TENNIS BALL that weighs virtually nothing. I couldn't believe it but the numbers didn't lie.
For the most part the slate should play the same as long as everything is level. Various cloths play differently, but if the same cloth is used then that should play the same as well. Then you are left with rails and pockets/pocket size. I don't think there is a standard pocket size, but 4.25" seems to be what the professionals mostly play on. That leaves the rails, which is probably the biggest "X" factor because every manufacturer's rails have different properties. Also, the rail properties can change with the atmosphere (humidity, temperature, etc.).
No, quality players can't play their game on any table.
I've seen two world class players play on a table that was a few hundred
pounds lighter than a Diamond or a Gold Crown....they looked like they
had landed on the moon even though the balls were Aramith Pro and
the cloth was 860 Simonis.
If I had to buy a table blind, I'd buy the heaviest one.
Raymond Ceulemans said that if you add a quarter inch to a slate, the
table will play a full length faster....and naturally, the rails will react differently.